by removing the pan, timing cover, and crank as opposed to pulling the pistons through the top of the bores? The top of my motor is all brand new within 5000 miles, but now I have a mild rod knock and I wanted to remedy this the cheapskate way by just doing bearings and rings on the bottom.

 

No, you can't take pistons out through the bottom. Are you sure its a knock coming from the crankshaft? Fuel pumps can sound like a knock when they're going out (mechanical) or as in my case, I thought my oil pressure guage went out, well it turns out I was having 0psi at idle for a little longer than a week. Got a new oil pump and its fixed, I'm surprised it hasn't came back for me.

 

haven't checked oil pressure, but it's quiet at startup and then gets louder as the car gets warmer

 

do you have one of those stethoscope dealies? They're pretty cheap, and quite worth while. Hold it against a bolt in the area to check the source of the sound usually.

I would think you'd be able to replace rod/main bearings without removing the pistons at all, i'm just trying to picture it in my mind here....

If can find out where the sound is coming from, and it seems like the bottom end (i'd agree with you based on the "louder at temp" thing), then you can always pull a main bearing or two, and see what they look like, maybe plastigauge them.

 

Stethascope idea is a good one too, I need to pick one up sometime. Yea, you can do just the bearings without removing pistons and such, I was thinking rings too (which I'd do while I'm in there, its just the matter of removing a head gasket) . Plastiguage them (yet another good idea) and also see if they look like this: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/bearin...aranalysis.htm

 

Isn't the crossmember in the way of the oil pan, or can you just take out the bolts and slide the oil pan out of the way?

If that were the case, I'd say you can change the rod bearings with the motor in the car, but like it was stated before, make sure that is actually your issue before ripping into it.

 

You have to get the engine up a bit to get the pan out. Pull the distributor as well (before you lift the engine), unless you want to damage it. You'll have to rotate the crank as well otherwise the pan hits the crank throws. You can get at the bearings then.

Its often easier to pull the whole motor. Its a bunch of work doing it in the car, although I've been there, done that. I just wouldnt advise it unless you're stuck going that route.

 

before you go pulling the engine, check a few things CAREFULLY, check the oil pressure like the guys mentioned, do a leak down test,and check components like the flex plate and mounting bolts, ALL the rocker arms,and springs, retainers,etc. and the accessories, all under the right circumstances could cause a knocking sound that would appear to be bearings at first

 

isn't it easier to just jump in replacing parts in a random order and hope one of the parts cures the problem?

 

easier in the respect that you replace everything.. but not easier on the wallet.. IMO i would rather buy the right part then just throw money at what "could" be the cause but still have a knock.

 

I thought I had a HORRIBLE ROD KNOCK, ended up being loose torque converter to flexplate bolts.