I am in the process of building my 355 and was wondering what you guys were using with trickflow 23* heads and a stealthram intake. I want the car for a daily driver for the most part, but am willing to part with some gas mileage. I have a 5 speed so no convertor to worry about. So if you can let me see some numbers if you can, maybe a time slip or two wouldbe cool too.

 

What size are the runners on those heads?

 

knowing the compression ratio,the rear gear ratio,if you need to pass emission testing, if you have power brakes, ETC.
and if you want a hydrolic or hydrolic ROLLER CAM would sure help here

 

195 and 64 chambers, I bought the fel pro 1010 head gasket hoping to keep the CR around 10 to one or maybe a little higher. I have 3.54's in the rear, and I'm not really planning on passing emissions, or at least I don't really care my inspection sticker has been out of date since '02. I have power brakes and I believe its a roller cam its a 1990 vette block.

 

I keep forgeting to add other things such as I have the double springs good to .600 lift, and I just saw the pistons that are in the block make 9.6 to one compression with 64cc heads but I'm not sure if that is iron or alum. I just want to be able to break the 12's barrier and maybe a little more.

 

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/...00403&x=17&y=8

this seems to match your needs but why not call crower,
http://www.crower.com/misc/contact.shtml

 

I called crower but they haven't gotten back to me yet, so I called Lunati and they gave me these specs. It's the Voodoo 60121 112 Lobe 515 on the intake 530 on the exhaust and the duration is 219,227 all on 1.5 rockers. How does that sound. It seems to be smaller than the crower gumpy mentioned, but is it a big difference? Thanks for your help

 

just some info

crower says in thier catalog description that that cam (00403)

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/...00403&x=17&y=8

hits peak power at 5600rpm and starts to fade off at 6200rpm, thats about the best you can expect from a valve train in a hydrolic roller engine without a optional rev kit and it comes close to matching the stealthrams potential power curve.
Im currently useing a crane 119661 in my 383 , its too radical for a lower compression 355 but it matches the stealthram almost exactly

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...61&lvl=2&prt=5

now youll almost always be better off to be UNDER CAMMED rather than OVERCAMMED but just as a comparison...heres the cam COMP CAM suggests as the

"Best cam for modified 350 TPI with improved chip, injectors, plenum, runners and exhaust."



http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Se...umber=12-268-4

keep in mind that stealth ram operates effectively in the HIGHER 3500rpm-6400rpm band unlike a TPI which tends to run out of airflow by about 4700rpm

then notice the cam durration on this crate engine

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/fram...er_Deluxe.html

 

I'd decided on either the Comp XE268H (268/280°, .477/.480) or very similar Crane 114142 (272/284°, .454/.480) for a 10.2:1 355/LT1 project. I was actually leaning toward the Crane due to the slightly longer LSA (112° vs. 110°) and moderated lift since the application is a daily driver/hauler. This is under 170cc heads with 2.02/1.60 valves, so adjust accordingly. If you can take more lope, less vacuum, and a little more temperment, be more aggressive. I've been guilty of under-camming in the past, being a generally conservative person.

 

new comp cams XFI cams is nice... i like the 218 cam.. i think its the 268 or w/e. should work great with fuel injection and that HSR 355. XE274 has been used alot around here with great success. its a 224/230 cam with just over .500 lift, i forget the actual numbers of the top of my head

thats as high as i would go as that cam will make lots of high rpm power, like uppper 5000 range. thats starts to get alittle high with hydro rollers without rev kits and depending on your bottom end in that motor, u dont really wanna rev too much past 6000-6500 on non forged parts but i have seen it done before without too much problems.

 

Yea I don't wanna rev it too much, it has the gm pink rods, stock crank and forged Speed Pro pistons. Thanks for all your input, helps make it a little easier on me. I think I decided with the comp XE274, I searched it and a lot of people seem to be happy with it. Anyone have any suggestions for the pushrods and rockers?

 

Couple of thoughts. Lift is your friend for power. Your heads will handle .600" lift. The cams you are looking at will not take full advantage of the capabilities of your heads. The Comp Cams 218XFI cam will do so as will others in that range by other companies. This cam has 268 degrees of duration. The popular ZZ9 has 282 degrees of duration and is a much smaller cam at .050". 212 degrees versus 218 degrees.

Now in order to use the capabilities of a higher lift cam you need quality parts. This is to make sure you have a "stiff" valve train to handle the lift and higher acceleration rate. One would be 7/16 studs if your heads do not already have them. They are easy to change and I would recomend the ARP Pro series. You want to minimize the flex of the stud.

Another is a high quality pushrod. I would use a chromemoly pushrod with at least a .080" wall. You don't want your push rod to act like a pole vault. This is true for any performance cam. The higher the quality and strength the better.

Next would be a the rocker. The Comp Cam Pro Magnum series is good and get the 1.6RR. The lower quality aluminum ones will have more flex.

Regarding the valve springs I'm going with the Comp Cams Beehive "918". Your dual springs will probably suffice.

 

Comp Cams XFI Camshaft, 230 / 236, .576 / .570 113 LSA, Strong mid-range and top end power. Headers, exhaust, gears, converter, computer tuning recommended. This is the came that comp told me I should get the other day. Now that lift is pushing what my springs can handle, correct? Also this would be streetable since the separation is 113 right. I'm still new to this bumpstick numbers shiat so bear with me. All your help is greatly appreciated

 

Your heads can handle it. But you will need quality(read stiff) pushrods. I would recommend 7/16" studs and a quality 1.6 rocker arm. I know of a car with that cam, a 700R4 and stock TPI runners and he put down 330RWHP. Also had AFR 190 heads. There is no doubt there is a cam in the car when you listen to the idle. Driveability does not appear to be an issue. With aftermarket runners he would put down more power.

 

I'm running the Comp XE268H-14 which is the same thing but a 114* LSA on a 10.5:1 CR LT1-headed 355. Pretty untuned (I'm using a tune that keeps my friend's 212/218 TPI car idling with a surge), I'm getting 13" of vacuum based off my MAP sensor. There is a LONG way to go in tuning though. I'd expect close to 18 after tuning. GREAT cam for my setup. Makes power as low as 1800 and starts to drops off a little under 6000.

 

The two cams that everyone uses and have been proven to work are teh LT4 hot cam and the XE274. Don't go with an LCA wider than 112 with that intake. 110 would probably be the best since those heads flow pretty good. You will probably like the 274. I had that same setup 2 years ago with the Hot cam and actually thought that the cam was small. I had the engine totally tuned in less than a week. Street manners were unbelievable. Only big hint of a cam was when temp was below 50* on startup at 700 RPM, than it loped.

 

What are you running with that setup you have now, it looks pretty healthy. Have any dyno or 1/4 runs yet?

 

I have the same heads you are going to buy. See my time and power in the signature with a small 212 degree cam.

 

Do you guys think that this is too much cam, because I ordered it but 2 posts up says don't go above a 112lsa. The specs are 230 / 236, .576 / .570 113 LSA, I want to be able to run it off a PCMforless tune until i have the money to have it dyno tuned, I just want the cam to be streetable with somewhat alright gas mileage. Again thanks for all the imput

 

You can go with that cam. Just know that you will be losing power above 3,000 RPM. We are probably talking about 20 hp or so at 6,000 RPM. DO NOT be afraid of a 112* LSA! They have great street manners. They are easy to tune, I did mine very quickly.