Alright, this is really starting to irritate me. So my car sits and is cold... anywhere between, well i want to say 2 hours to like overnite. Well when I get into my car and start it, I've been noticing a big puff of blue smoke coming out my duals. This happened just when i start it and the blue smoke is gone right away and my car looks fine running. Its kind of embarrasing after school in the parking lot because my car is in good shape and i havnt had any problems with it and then it does this. So yeah. I've been told its my rings but I wanted to get your guys' opinions. What could i do to resolve this problem without paying a load to take it to the repair shop. Thanks a lot!

Most likely valve stem seals. The 350 TPI I pulled out of my '88 TA did the same thing. Made good power and ran great otherwise, but embarrasing. Not that hard to change them if you know how. It's in the manuals that they sell at autozone.

i'm gonna second the valve seals, it is really common

Yeah, I agree, valve seals. Mine does the exact same thing. But you can just tell the uneducated that it's because your car makes so much power

Damn, I wish I had known that. It would have saved me changing my engine

How hard is it to change the seals on a Air Conditioning TPI car? I've changed them on my 86 LG4 carbed motor and it wasn't bad at all. I did have to dissconnect some stuff, but in all it was pretty simple. Is there alot of sh*t in the way on a TPI car?

mine 350 TPI smokes when I start it up in the morning. So just change the valve seals and it should take care of the smoke.

Unfortunately there is some issues with clearance and all that jazz. The A/C and the smog equiptment being the worst of it. The passenger side is pretty hairy, but the driver's side isn't too bad. What you can do though, is move it out of the way, I don't think there is too much you really need to actually take all the way out, and the things you do have to disconnect, you can mark their location with a piece of masking tape. Wrap one end of a hose with a tag and label it "A" and wrap the fitting it went on to with a letter "A". Simple enough, but I think that the AIR tubes are going to give you the most problems since they are hard lines and cannot be moved. Maybe it will be easier once they are unbolted from the heads, unless of course you have aftermarket headers, then the job will be alot easier.

Good luck and let us know any more problems you have, we'll help walk you through it.

_Clark

Go to your local auto store and pick up some "Restore". It comes in a tall can, and it works great. The engine in my fathers truck was smoking very badly at start up and after I put some restore in it didnt smoke for over a month until his oil was changed. But It is just a temporary fix. Hopefully its just the valve seals

I'll put money on it that it is the valve seals.

yeah me too, is that a common problem with the tpi???

Yes it's fairly common.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cooling/352471-rusty-coolant.html
Stekman explained it fairly well:

valve seals are common on almost any V8 once milage starts to get up there

Usually its the exhaust seals. It's made of plastic and tends to break down and disappear after awhile. I know when I did my seals most of the exhaust "umbrellas" were actually missing, as they had just broken down/dissolved over the past 20 years.

That's an excellent idea.

Alright so majority says valve seals.
God I love you guys...haha, i dont know what i would do if this site wasnt here and so Frigging Awesome!

No problem, we've always got time to help out a fellow third genner.

Alright so I'm going to try to give this replacing valve stems a whirl. Haha, I have to learn how to do it somehow, you know?
Any you guys want to give me some step by step advice on checking my valve seals. Don't worry I'm not totally oblivious like that last sentence makes me sound. I have been reading up on in my Haynes Repair Manual. So... that's if one of you guys think you can put it in simpler english than the Haynes.
And if not thats cool, if I have any problems I'll be sure to let you guys know.

Are you going to use the "air pressure method" or the "rope method", and do you have headers on it?

Well i really dont have an air compressor, i used to but now its shot. So probably the rope method.
----------
But maybe i can get an air compressor.
Well which ones easier?

First: Get the new seals and come up with something to install them. Both methods have difficulties. Rope method: Need a good way to turn the crank - both clockwise and counterclockwise.
Most people use the bolt in the end of the crank, put the rope in, turn the crank clockwise, change seals, then unscrew the bolt trying to turn it CCW and can't turn it back to get the rope out.
Air method: Better have reliable air. It has to stay aired up all the time you are removing both springs, replacing the seals, and springing them back up, and after you drop a keeper (that will balance on the crossmember) and fish it back up. A little planning will go a long way here. Have a magnet to hold the keepers while you are changing the seals, a pencil magnet to put them in, and a couple of clothes pins to hold the valves if you have to let the air off. Remember one hand will be holding tension on the lever compressing the spring so you will have to do everything else with only one hand. Tip: when you start the spring back down onto the stem, get it lined up good the first time. When you air the cylinder, the piston will travel to the bottom, (watch the fanbelt/pullies) and if you pry down on the stem with the retainer it is possible to pop the exhaust valve off the seat. Then down she goes, into the empty cylinder. You can get it back up, since it can't fall completely out in the cylinder, but it is one hell of a fishing expedition. I haven't personally used the rope method but it will be the only technique if headers are there. The air adapter won't clear the headers to screw into the sparkplug hole.
Another tip: after you remove and install a bunch of springs, be feeling for a "soft one" while you are doing it. It's just as easy to put a replacement back on as a weak one, and they ain't expensive.
It's really not so difficult as it is time consuming. Especially if you are prepared and know what to expect.
p.s. don't forget the valve cover gaskets.

Thanks man