I don't have a crank socket, ($25+), but I thought I could just use a 7/16"NF bolt in the crank, to turn the motor over, so I can install the cam. I heard on this board something about not being able to use the long bolt used with the dampner...? I thought that's what you'd normally use to turn over the motor once it's all complete and in the engine bay so, what gives?

Can I just grab a 1" long 7/16" NF bolt and use that right now?
Thanks

 

Some people use the balancer bolts. In my opinion it's a good way to strip out the threads, especially if you're running stiff springs... etc. If you do strip out the threads that's just one more thing to hassle over. I've read of members just welding balancer in place then, or helicoiling the crank.

I've also heard of people just putting a crescent wrench on the keys and turning them. Yet another good way to mess something up.

Jeg's makes a $20 crank socket that slides onto the snout and uses the keyway to turn it over with a crescent wrench. That's what I used with a 24" wrench.

When a motor is all complete and in the bay I use a flywheel/flexplate turning tool. You just strap it onto the starter ring on the plate and turn it over that way. I literally broke the tab end off my turning tool, because the directions said you could use it with plugs in... yeah right.

 

I have always turned them by the dampner bolt but if you break it or strip it your pretty much screwed...

 

hmm, yea, no heads or valve train, just moving pistons in bores basically. I was turning it via the counter weights, but i'm running out of travel before TDC, like 1" away.... ok, i'll just use a bolt for now then, I think this is the only time i'll have to rotate it until the i'm lashing the valves, but by then i'll have the dampner on etc, and I can just rotate it by the bolt..(again... that's what it's for isn't it??)

 

Hehe... No, The bolt is there as added safety so the balancer doesn't try to work loose even though it's pressed on. I imagine having one fly off going down the road could get ugly fast for the car and motor.

Think about how pullies bolt-on the balancer. They use the threads on the balancer itself. The balancer puts pressure on the keyway not on the bolt to make the pulleys turn with the crank.

But like you said not having any valvetrain in it shouldn't hurt hopefully. I would recommend just buying the tools if you plan on doing it a lot. The turning tool for the flexplate/flywheel comes in very handy when bolting/unbolting converters and such operations as that. I imagine it would be handy for manuals too.

The crank socket on the other hand is only handy if you have the balancer off.

 

You can make a crank turning tool pretty easy if you have access to a welder. Take an old crankshaft timing gear and weld it to a large socket you don't need. Before welding you should "split" the gear. This basically means hitting it with a chisel hard enough to crack the gear at the keyway. This makes it slightly larger so it will go onto (and off of) the crank easily. Hardest part is finding a socket large enough to clear the crank snout. I used a POS Chinese 2 & 1/4" deep-socket that was rolling around the bottom of my toolbox.

 

hey! that's a good idea, I think I might have those things lying around!

 

If there is no top end on the motor, you sould be able to turn the motor over literally by hand. Either using the dampener or flywheel. I've always been able to do so.

 

probably could, neither of those are on. I'm trying to put in the cam, so....

crap, I need a flywheel, forgot about that... hmm, maybe I can use the one from the 305...

 

I now have a crankshaft socket, but with the balancer on it's useless.
I've heard of a tool that bolts onto the crank pulley, with 3 bolts, and has a hole in the center to put your ratchet into. Anyone know of who makes it, or a part number? I really don't like having to pull all my plugs to rotating the engine over by the balancer, and I have to set my valve lash again so...
Thanks

 

Like this?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=PRO%2D66782

Yes a flex plate will make an excellent tool, except that if you're careless it has a bad habit of pinching your fingers between the plate and the block.

 

Turn the crank with the balancer bolt, I have been doing it and seen it done that way as long as I can remember. That is pretty stout metal used in the crack and and a 7/16 bolt will need a huge amount of torque to snap it, if you have to use enough torque to break it then you have major problems with the crank install. If it stips the threads in the crank, either it wasn't the right bolt or the crank is not the quality it needs to be.

 

Proform 66782 bolts to the balancer. Their slip-on one is also only about $15 or so.

 

Bingo! Thanks guys. They have a slip on one?? I couldn't find it...

Yea, I didn't want to deal with a flexplate / flywheel turner. I can't see the rockers moving while i'm under the car....
Think i'm ok leaving this tool on permanently?

 

i just stick the balancer bolt on with a big socket to lock down on so its just like the balancer is on, but not..

 

I wouldn't, unless you could balance it.

 

Think it might interfere with the pulley?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=PRO%2D66901

 

I think he's talking about the one that bolts on the balancer. It fits comfortably inside the pulley.

 

Yea, I meant the one you linked to first
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=PRO%2D66782

I have the crank socket, but can't use it with the balancer on.