First 500 miles after new motor....
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
First 500 miles after new motor....
my motor is FINALLY near completion. its a roller motor so i understand no cam break in is needed. ive read theories on both ways to break in a new motor...easy or hard. im choosing to beat on it to get those rings to seal BUT...
ASAP i need to get the car aligned, i tore apart the entire suspension. will the guy at the alignment shop hurt the motor by driving it short distances and then shutting it off a couple times???
ASAP i need to get the car aligned, i tore apart the entire suspension. will the guy at the alignment shop hurt the motor by driving it short distances and then shutting it off a couple times???
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
If your worried about it fire it up and let it run for a bit before it goes in, i would personally still do a 15-20 minute 2500RPM run to get everything up to temp and swinging around nicely.
Then let the shop do their work and have fun!
Then let the shop do their work and have fun!
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From: MD
Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
15-20 minutes of 2500-3000 RPM with no load and a non-detergent 30wt oil will let all the parts get acquainted with one another. A short drive up the street at 20-30% throttle will assure the rings are seated. Shut it down, change the oil/filter, do a compression and leakdown test. If all is well then take it to the shop.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
i will defenitly start the motor in the garage, let it get to temp and roughly tune things. then let it cool and change the oil. fine tune the timing and fuel pressure then head out.
im concerned because i know the first 20 miles are crucial to get the rings to seat properly and i want to beat on it to get them to do so.
the last time i had the suspension torn down i could hardly get the car to the alignment shop because anytime i would make the slightest right turn the tires squealed to all hell.
----------
BTW....anyone want to enlighten me on the 30w non detergent oils ive heard about for break in? normal quaker state wont work??
i plan to change oil after first startup, again in 500 miles, then switch to synthetic in 2500.
im concerned because i know the first 20 miles are crucial to get the rings to seat properly and i want to beat on it to get them to do so.
the last time i had the suspension torn down i could hardly get the car to the alignment shop because anytime i would make the slightest right turn the tires squealed to all hell.
----------
BTW....anyone want to enlighten me on the 30w non detergent oils ive heard about for break in? normal quaker state wont work??
i plan to change oil after first startup, again in 500 miles, then switch to synthetic in 2500.
Last edited by CamarosRUS; Apr 12, 2006 at 09:32 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Findlay, OH USA
Car: 1987 Monte Carlo SS
Engine: 400 SBC
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Yeah, thats a new one to me. I've always been told to use an oil that has all of the good additives and at least meets the OEM service rating. A non-detergent oil wouldn't suffice in that situation.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
lunati recommends a 30wt non detergent oil for cam break in. since you don't have to do that, it's kinda a moot point. GM EOS is your friend though.
no synthetic though, make sure of that.
no synthetic though, make sure of that.
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
ive been doing some reading on oils and what to use for break in and have found (as always) many mixed opinions...
the general concensus around here is to use a straight 30wt non-detergent oil for break in...can anyone explain to me why this is?
the general concenses around bobistheoilguy's forums is to run whatever you plan to run in it (obviously not synthetic however) and nondetergent oil is like a step down from todays oil. can someone enlighten me on this stuff?
the general concensus around here is to use a straight 30wt non-detergent oil for break in...can anyone explain to me why this is?
the general concenses around bobistheoilguy's forums is to run whatever you plan to run in it (obviously not synthetic however) and nondetergent oil is like a step down from todays oil. can someone enlighten me on this stuff?
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
lunati put on the cam card to use straight 30wt non-detergent. Since the cam is usually what you want to protect the most (or has the most chance of failing) I follow it's suggestions closest.
can't say for non-detergent vs detergent though.
can't say for non-detergent vs detergent though.
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