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best way to restore a rear end...suggestions please!!

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Old Apr 13, 2006 | 10:10 PM
  #1  
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From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: GMPP 350 HO w/TBI
Transmission: 700R-4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt w/3.73s
best way to restore a rear end...suggestions please!!

ok, here is the deal. about a year and a half ago, i took the rear end out of my '91 RS with the hopes of rebuilding it. i completely disassembled it, and began to clean it up as best i could. back then, i knew a guy that had a shop that said he could clean it up and repaint it for me. to save me some cash, he said to get as far as i could myself, then to turn it over to him to finish it up.

so, i started to sandblast it, etc. to remove the majority of the rust. around this time, i ended up having a few things come up, and i ran out of both time and money to finish the job. before i knew it, it was fall, and it was still sitting in the garage. that was fall of 2004, and it's been there ever since (last summer, i graduated college, got a job, and moved, so it was unfortunately not a priority).

now, here's the strange part...the guy that was going to finish it up for me passed away. and, so far, i cant find anyone that will do what he said he would, so i want to take care of it myself.

here are my two main problems: first, i sandblasted it under the assumption that he would be doing a few things to it afterwards, so i didnt cover anything up. which means there is sand inside of it. not much (actually, very little), but there is definitely some. and, it has been sitting around for a year and a half in a garage. i realize that both of these things were pretty dumb, but like i said earlier...my priorities were messed up back then

so what do you guys think? is this a salvagable situation? i really dont have the money to go plunk down $2,000+ for a new one, especially since i have a shelf full of parts to beef up and completely rebuild the old one. but, i have to find a way to a) get any sand that is indide it out, and b) make sure that there were no adverse effects of letting it sit for a long time. i am thinking that letting it sit wasnt a huge deal, because it had a coating of oil to hopefully keep it lubricated. but, the sand is making me thing i am screwed.

any ideas???

i have a couple, but nothing that really has me convinced i will be ok, so anything at all that anyone has to offer i would really appreciate.

thanks,

brian

Last edited by Z28 Boy; Apr 13, 2006 at 10:14 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2006 | 02:14 AM
  #2  
ede's Avatar
ede
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pull the axles, pull the carrier and flush/clean the sand out. don't spin anything to allow the sand to work into the bearings. after you're done put it back together.
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Old Apr 14, 2006 | 02:36 AM
  #3  
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Don't be afraid to use hot, soapy water. It will help suspend that sand so you can flush it out.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 04:39 PM
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Z28 Boy's Avatar
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From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: GMPP 350 HO w/TBI
Transmission: 700R-4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt w/3.73s
ok, well the axles, carrier, bearings, etc. are all out already. i never thought of the warm soapy water idea...maybe that will help.

any other suggestions, please reply. thanks,

brian
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 10:06 PM
  #5  
8Mike9's Avatar
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From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Degreaser and carwash
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 10:13 PM
  #6  
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
oil it directly after you hit it with water though.

re-assembling it, maybe beefing it up if so desired, isn't all that hard, doesn't require loads of specialty tools either. I've made a few threads in regards to my rebuilding a 10 bolt, as I came across a few problems. you can use those as a guide, I have a few nice pictures in them.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 11:01 PM
  #7  
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From: Richlands N.C.
Car: '92 RS
Engine: 350 carb'd
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4.10
After you rinse it out blow it out with air, if you have the pinion , and other bearings out too. I hope you marked which shim went to which side and kept the carrier caps on the correct side.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 12:43 PM
  #8  
Z28 Boy's Avatar
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From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: GMPP 350 HO w/TBI
Transmission: 700R-4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt w/3.73s
Originally Posted by chevymec
After you rinse it out blow it out with air, if you have the pinion , and other bearings out too. I hope you marked which shim went to which side and kept the carrier caps on the correct side.
well, i am having somebody install the new gears and carrier, so they will be taking care of the shimming, etc. as far as the carrier caps, i remember when i took them out i didnt "mark" them per se, but i could tell by the castings which went on which side.

but, like i said earlier - this is a COMPLETE rebuild. literally, the only pieces remaining will be the pumpkin and axle tubes, and the axles themselves (which i might just replace while i'm at it). i've got new brakes from backing plate to drum and everything in between, carrier, c-clips, girdle, etc., etc. i know, you guys probably think i am insane for spending so much time and money rebuilding a lousy 10-bolt, but the car will probably never have more than 400ish ft. lbs. of torque, and will probably never get below a 13.00 in the 1/4. i know that even those numbers are pushing it with a 10-bolt, but i think if built right with the right parts, it will hold up. then again, i could just be insane .

thanks very much for the info, and again, please keep it coming.

brian
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 12:54 PM
  #9  
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
are you planning on using a solid pinion spacer? if not, plan on it. welding your axle tubes to the housing also can't hurt.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 04:36 PM
  #10  
Z28 Boy's Avatar
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From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: GMPP 350 HO w/TBI
Transmission: 700R-4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt w/3.73s
Originally Posted by Sonix
are you planning on using a solid pinion spacer? if not, plan on it. welding your axle tubes to the housing also can't hurt.
yes on both accounts. i am getting LCA relocation brackets welded on, as well as the tubes welded at the same time. the only thing that i am a little worried about is warping when i have somebody do the axle tubes. i don't even know if it would be an issue, but then again, i'm not sure. i know that the axle tubes are made of some relatively thin material.

(i went to college for mechanical engineering - so i am extra paranoid about a lot of things that can go wrong because of some of the courses that i took)
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 04:48 PM
  #11  
Sonix's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
the axle tubes are pretty thick I believe. I think at least 1/8"...
I welded my tubes myself with a cheesy little stick welder, low enough amperage that warping it wasn't a concern.
They're held in place fairly well from the factory, so I really don't think warping is anything to worry about, unless you weld it on 150AMPs or something huge.
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