best way to restore a rear end...suggestions please!!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,069
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From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: GMPP 350 HO w/TBI
Transmission: 700R-4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt w/3.73s
best way to restore a rear end...suggestions please!!
ok, here is the deal. about a year and a half ago, i took the rear end out of my '91 RS with the hopes of rebuilding it. i completely disassembled it, and began to clean it up as best i could. back then, i knew a guy that had a shop that said he could clean it up and repaint it for me. to save me some cash, he said to get as far as i could myself, then to turn it over to him to finish it up.
so, i started to sandblast it, etc. to remove the majority of the rust. around this time, i ended up having a few things come up, and i ran out of both time and money to finish the job. before i knew it, it was fall, and it was still sitting in the garage. that was fall of 2004, and it's been there ever since (last summer, i graduated college, got a job, and moved, so it was unfortunately not a priority).
now, here's the strange part...the guy that was going to finish it up for me passed away. and, so far, i cant find anyone that will do what he said he would, so i want to take care of it myself.
here are my two main problems: first, i sandblasted it under the assumption that he would be doing a few things to it afterwards, so i didnt cover anything up. which means there is sand inside of it. not much (actually, very little), but there is definitely some. and, it has been sitting around for a year and a half in a garage. i realize that both of these things were pretty dumb, but like i said earlier...my priorities were messed up back then
so what do you guys think? is this a salvagable situation? i really dont have the money to go plunk down $2,000+ for a new one, especially since i have a shelf full of parts to beef up and completely rebuild the old one. but, i have to find a way to a) get any sand that is indide it out, and b) make sure that there were no adverse effects of letting it sit for a long time. i am thinking that letting it sit wasnt a huge deal, because it had a coating of oil to hopefully keep it lubricated. but, the sand is making me thing i am screwed.
any ideas???
i have a couple, but nothing that really has me convinced i will be ok, so anything at all that anyone has to offer i would really appreciate.
thanks,
brian
so, i started to sandblast it, etc. to remove the majority of the rust. around this time, i ended up having a few things come up, and i ran out of both time and money to finish the job. before i knew it, it was fall, and it was still sitting in the garage. that was fall of 2004, and it's been there ever since (last summer, i graduated college, got a job, and moved, so it was unfortunately not a priority).
now, here's the strange part...the guy that was going to finish it up for me passed away. and, so far, i cant find anyone that will do what he said he would, so i want to take care of it myself.
here are my two main problems: first, i sandblasted it under the assumption that he would be doing a few things to it afterwards, so i didnt cover anything up. which means there is sand inside of it. not much (actually, very little), but there is definitely some. and, it has been sitting around for a year and a half in a garage. i realize that both of these things were pretty dumb, but like i said earlier...my priorities were messed up back then

so what do you guys think? is this a salvagable situation? i really dont have the money to go plunk down $2,000+ for a new one, especially since i have a shelf full of parts to beef up and completely rebuild the old one. but, i have to find a way to a) get any sand that is indide it out, and b) make sure that there were no adverse effects of letting it sit for a long time. i am thinking that letting it sit wasnt a huge deal, because it had a coating of oil to hopefully keep it lubricated. but, the sand is making me thing i am screwed.
any ideas???
i have a couple, but nothing that really has me convinced i will be ok, so anything at all that anyone has to offer i would really appreciate.
thanks,
brian
Last edited by Z28 Boy; Apr 13, 2006 at 10:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: GMPP 350 HO w/TBI
Transmission: 700R-4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt w/3.73s
ok, well the axles, carrier, bearings, etc. are all out already. i never thought of the warm soapy water idea...maybe that will help.
any other suggestions, please reply. thanks,
brian
any other suggestions, please reply. thanks,
brian
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
oil it directly after you hit it with water though.
re-assembling it, maybe beefing it up if so desired, isn't all that hard, doesn't require loads of specialty tools either. I've made a few threads in regards to my rebuilding a 10 bolt, as I came across a few problems. you can use those as a guide, I have a few nice pictures in them.
re-assembling it, maybe beefing it up if so desired, isn't all that hard, doesn't require loads of specialty tools either. I've made a few threads in regards to my rebuilding a 10 bolt, as I came across a few problems. you can use those as a guide, I have a few nice pictures in them.
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From: Richlands N.C.
Car: '92 RS
Engine: 350 carb'd
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4.10
After you rinse it out blow it out with air, if you have the pinion , and other bearings out too. I hope you marked which shim went to which side and kept the carrier caps on the correct side.
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: GMPP 350 HO w/TBI
Transmission: 700R-4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt w/3.73s
Originally Posted by chevymec
After you rinse it out blow it out with air, if you have the pinion , and other bearings out too. I hope you marked which shim went to which side and kept the carrier caps on the correct side.
but, like i said earlier - this is a COMPLETE rebuild. literally, the only pieces remaining will be the pumpkin and axle tubes, and the axles themselves (which i might just replace while i'm at it). i've got new brakes from backing plate to drum and everything in between, carrier, c-clips, girdle, etc., etc. i know, you guys probably think i am insane for spending so much time and money rebuilding a lousy 10-bolt, but the car will probably never have more than 400ish ft. lbs. of torque, and will probably never get below a 13.00 in the 1/4. i know that even those numbers are pushing it with a 10-bolt, but i think if built right with the right parts, it will hold up. then again, i could just be insane
.thanks very much for the info, and again, please keep it coming.
brian
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
are you planning on using a solid pinion spacer? if not, plan on it. welding your axle tubes to the housing also can't hurt.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: GMPP 350 HO w/TBI
Transmission: 700R-4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt w/3.73s
Originally Posted by Sonix
are you planning on using a solid pinion spacer? if not, plan on it. welding your axle tubes to the housing also can't hurt.
(i went to college for mechanical engineering - so i am extra paranoid about a lot of things that can go wrong because of some of the courses that i took)
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
the axle tubes are pretty thick I believe. I think at least 1/8"...
I welded my tubes myself with a cheesy little stick welder, low enough amperage that warping it wasn't a concern.
They're held in place fairly well from the factory, so I really don't think warping is anything to worry about, unless you weld it on 150AMPs or something huge.
I welded my tubes myself with a cheesy little stick welder, low enough amperage that warping it wasn't a concern.
They're held in place fairly well from the factory, so I really don't think warping is anything to worry about, unless you weld it on 150AMPs or something huge.
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