Which flywheel to buy, 153 tooth, too many choices

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May 9, 2006 | 04:12 PM
  #1  
I just went to bolt my pressure plate on my flywheel today and one of the bolts were stripped out. I don't think putting a helicoil in there is a good idea, so i'm going to buy another flywheel.

It's a 153 tooth flywheel, but i'm pretty sure it's a lightweight gm cast model. I don't have access to a camera right now, but i'm going to unbolt it and let you know part numbers if there is any, so you can help me choose another. I'm confused there is so many to choose from, I think i'm going with this fidanza model.
eBay Motors: Fidanza flywheel Camaro, Corvette Firebird V8 350 86-92 (item 8062146275 end time May-12-06 10:06:25 PDT)

I'm not sure if it will work, this was my first rebuild and the machine shop told me the crank was a 305 crank, does this affect the flywheel I buy. I found this one also by spec it says 5.0 do I need this one. Thunder Racing - Flywheels & Flexplates for your 1982-1992 F-Body

I don't know if the 5.0 crank and 5.7 crank use different flywheels otherwise I wouldn't have posted. thanks in advance
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Ok I found a pic of my flywheel. The front of it looks exactly like this, but it could be different. I'm new to all of this any help is appreciated

eBay Motors: Lightweight Corvette Flywheel IMCA Hot Rod SBC 1986-93 (item 4635508621 end time May-04-06 12:42:25 PDT).
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May 9, 2006 | 06:26 PM
  #2  
305 and 350 use the same flywheel. What differs is the rear main seal type. '86-up are one-piece rear main seal, '85-earlier are 2-piece rear main seal. One type flywheel won't bolt to the other type crank.
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May 9, 2006 | 08:28 PM
  #3  
Would you trust a helicoil instead of buying a new flywheel. I spent $35 dollars to have it resurfaced, but I could just get the one above for $140 plus shipping. I'm only asking because money is tight.
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May 9, 2006 | 10:49 PM
  #4  
heli-coil is typically stronger than the threads it replaces, plus there's still 5 other "good" original threads, i'd heli-coil it and forget it.
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May 10, 2006 | 11:31 AM
  #5  
thanks, I just wanted to make sure. I want to keep my legs, and I don't want to cut corners. Also, does a performance clutch wear the transmission out faster if you shift hard, as opposed to stock. I'm going to be using a McLeod clutch with the kevlar friction material.
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May 10, 2006 | 10:03 PM
  #6  
Quote:
heli-coil is typically stronger than the threads it replaces, plus there's still 5 other "good" original threads, i'd heli-coil it and forget it.


Hell, i would helicoil them all if your worried,helicoils if installed correct are stronger.
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May 11, 2006 | 10:08 AM
  #7  
One thing, maybe one of you will know. I just received my throw out bearing for my McLeod clutch. I haven't done too many clutches, but the outside of this bearing isn't totally round. I'm talking about where the cluthc fork slides on. There is a dimple (protrusion), it's definitely supposed to be there. I'm just not sure if that has to be put facing the inside of the clutch fork or the outside. I'm thinking it should be facing the open end of the fork. I don't know why they would put this there. But any help would be appreciated. thanks
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May 11, 2006 | 10:10 AM
  #8  
It doesn't really matter where it goes; all it does, is keep that center part of the bearing, from spinning on the fork.

Alot of TOBs have that these days.
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May 11, 2006 | 10:19 AM
  #9  
Thanks man, you've helped me in the past. I figured that's what it was for, but I forgot to type it, makes sense. I don't think before I type sometimes.
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