I didn't think so but am not sure whatsoever...can anyone else chime in?

 

Email the manufacturer to be 100% sure, seems like you have some time before you get your chip worked out. If its an iron gear on the cam you don't need a bronze one.

It'll help your situation if you take care of the valves before you try to start it up, and get the timing as close as you can. Like others have said, you should definitely wait for a custom chip before you break it in.

I think I read that you had the pushrod spinning on one of the valves - you need to tighten until it stops spinning, then go 1/2 turn more or whatever you like doing. With it still spinning it is too loose and the valve will not open completely, and you could damage something because the pushrod can jump around and bang into the lifters and rocker arms.

 

I'm defenitly going to call Comp Monday and make sure I have an iron gear on that cam.

My chip is in the hands of Joe (Anesthes...THANK YOU!!!) BUT, I did just get my Adapter and ZIF from Craig Moates today along with my suprise early bday present...my Laptop so I can now datalog!!!

But I don't know what you mean about tightening the rocker until the pushrod stops spinning...thats incredibly bad. Doing that would mean the valve has already started to open and the lifter would be compressed (possibly fully). You would have absolutly no compression...Please make sure you know what you're talking about because bad info like that can lead to someone destroying something (no jerk intentions if it came off like that).

I did go through and replace the lash cap and re-do the valve lash correctly just to make sure.

 

The hydraulic lifter has something like .050" of give for preload. You tighten the rocker until you can't spin the pushrod, then go an extra xxxxxx turn. (the xxxx means i've seen about a million numbers used). This procedure is just for hydraulic lifters, because as you mentioned, it would cause solid lifters to lift the valve open

What I do is fire it up, let it run for 15 minutes, and adjust each one with motor running and hot. Losen the rocker until it starts tapping. tighten until the tap goes away. turn about 1/4 turn. If you use polylocks, you will feel NO resistance. Tighten until you feel a hair of resistance. This preloads the plunger.

Hydraulic lifters use this preload to take up the slop, so the motor makes no tick. (or tappet, which is what gave lifters it's original name). But if you go too tight, you'll open the valve. If you go too loose, you can risk damage.

You gave your cam specs earlier, and said it was a HR 112. It is right? (hydraulic roller, 112* intake centerline)

PM me your mailing address.

-- Joe

 

Heres what I used to do my valve lash. Zero lash is when the pushrod no longer moves up and down (will still spin freely) when the lifter is on the cam base circle.

Hydraulic lifters require .030" +/- .010" preload from zero lash to work properly. When the engine is off and the lifter is on the base circle, you adjust the rocker until all the play is out of the pushrod. That's zero lash. 1/2 turn tighter is very close to .030" preload. (Stephen87IROC)

Easiest way to set a hydraulic cam after you've screwed it up by doing wrong stuff like you've done, is to use the "intake closing exhaust opening" method. Watch the valve motion on one cyl as you turn the engine. You'll see the exhaust open, reach max lift, and start to close; as it almost reaches fully closed, the intake will start to open, and as you continue, the intake will continue to open, reach full lift, and begin to close. Then as you continue to turn it, you will find that you will have to turn the crank most of one full turn before that cyl's valves begin to move again; and when you do see one move, it will be the exhaust first, repeating its cycle.

Adjust the intake valve as the exhaust valve just begins to open, and adjust the exhaust valve as the intake is just reaching its closing point.

Correct lash is when, with the motor at the point as described, the push rod for the valve you're adjusting just barely quits rattling around between the lifter and rocker. You DO NOT want to get it so tight that it begins to depress the plunger into the lifter. You will probably still be able to move the rocker and push rod around by hand, even when the lash is all taken up, because of the plunger being able to be pushed in. Then once you get it to that point, turn it one-half turn more, and move on, and LEAVE THAT ONE ALONE FROM THAT POINT ON. (RB83L69)

You are getting a PM Joe!

BTW, I don't know if I updated this post but after running a bunch of oil over the heads and then draining it I did finaly get it to come out clean! This just made me feel better before I start it up again for the first time.

 

The metal on the plug looks like typical rebuild slop to me... did the builder use graphite assembly lube ? That can give the oil that glittery look for a few oil changes. Good luck with the tuning !

 

I don't know what lube he used but I'm pretty sure its not a graphite lube. Its a white lube. There was a bunch of the residue all on the drivers head and under the valve cover because I have two breathers on the passs side only.

The builder saw the pics and said he wouldn't worry, I called Comp and they said the iron dozzy gear will be just fine, so maybe I was just paraniod but when I heard from many people that it looked like too much metal for a roller cam I got worried.

Especially because the car ran EXTREMLY rich for the first couple starts and I was worried I washed the walls out...

I'm getting ready to order my ALDL cable and Serial to USB adapter right now so I can start that tuning...I'll need all the good luck I can get!