ok my no.8 exhaust rocker stud is striped and i cannot just put some washers on it and tighten down a bolt because when i do it will tighten down till it gets to resistance and just spins. is there a tool that i can use or another way to get it out so i dont have to pull my heads off just yet since i dont have anything else to drive and i need to drie it to the body shop here soon too! please help.

 

try to use a tap and dye kit and make it smaller just so you can pull it out and replace it.

 

Rocker studs are deep case hardened. I'd be impressed if you are able to thread it with a die.

Use a stud puller, or weld a bolt to the top and use a slide hammer. Once it's out, thread the hole for a repair stud.

 

ive tryed using a die and no it does not work like Vader said they are hardened i ruined two dies trying. the heads are still on the motor which is still in the car i wouldnt thing it would be safe to be welding arond all that oil and gasoline. what kind of stud puller are you talking about ive gone to a few diffrent places around here and no one has a stud puller. i found something here online called a stud puller that looks like a socket and it grips on where there are threads is that what you mean? i realy need/want this thing going again like i said ive got to take it soon to get it painted and i just miss driving it!

 

I'm gutsy, I'd weld it, won't take long to fill a 3/8th hole...than again won't take long to go boom either

Next choice would be to cut it off flush with the boss, then drill and tap it for 1/4inch and try to pull it.

 

i had thought about cutting it and then taping it to put in another bolt but i dont wanna mess it up worse thats the oly thing its a pain in the @$$ to get too also cause of all that heater box crap

 

Which cylinder is it? The stud puller I was referring to is a socket/chuck that screws or pushes onto whatever thread you might have left, then clamps onto the stud via the chucking action. Snap On has one, OTC has one, and probably others. The puller is then used with a slide hammer, so it you don't have a direct line of sight perpendicular to the stud boss on the head, it won't work. And if there is not enough room to pull the stud, tapping the hole for a repair stud may be difficult or impossible.

There is another possible option, but it would be tedious. Get a pair of Chan-Nel-Lock 410G pliers. Their jaws are very hard, and will bite through and into the case hardened stud. Vise-Grips won't touch them, and regular pliers, Robo-Grips, Knipex, and other low-life variants will be useless. It will be difficult enough with the good pliers, and you will generate chips and shavings that you will need to keep out of the oil drainbacks and will need to clean up. Start turning the stud to loosen it while applying a thin penetrating lubricant. As it spins, lift at the same time. It will take quite a while, but eventually you'll wear away some of the iron and loosen the stud in the boss. The risk is that the side stress that you impart on the stud to turn it may crack the head casting. It may help to heat the stud boss around the stud before turning it.

Personally, I'd protect the surrounding area and weld another stud to it, or pull the head.

 

I thought cutting it off flush or so, then maybe try to hammer it into the port (if it protrudes into the port), or center punch it, drill it, going up in sizes, until it's a weeny thin shell, then you should be able to "peel" it out. (with a hammer and chisel or something).

 

its the no.8 cylinder and exhaust side stud. a friend is coming over tomarrow w/ his welder and is going to weld on a nut to it and we are gonna try and use a slide hammer to get it out. will this work? from what i have read and been told that it should work.

 

The slide hammer will work only if you have a straight shot at the stud. If not you risk breaking the stud boss. Can also weld a bolt (the head end) to the stud and pull it using a sapcer or stack of washers and a nut.

RBob.

P.S. some sheet metal helps with the weld splatter

 

wouldnt you have to weld on the threaded end of the bolt to be able to use the washer and nut technique? yea my worst fear is something catching on fire while trying to do this ive already gotten one scare with fire on this motor

 

ok i called around today and a friend of mine that works at Fisher Auto checked for a stud puller and all he could get was a kit that was like $50 so unless i can find one somewhere cheaper i belive just welding a nut on is what i will be doing. any other suggestions or helpful advise will be greatly apreciated.

 

Its always gotta be the worst cyl to work on. Why cant us thirdgen guys get a break and have this with the exhaust valve of number 2 LOL.

 

yea i know i think this car is either one of 3 things 1 mad cause i put another 305back in her. 2 this motor hates me 3. it wanted to stay dead! anyway i got the slide hammer tonight so hopefully tomarrow i can got some work on it done. the slide hammer has threds on the end so when i get the unt tack welded on the stud do i need to get a nut that will thread onto the hammer? it may sound like a stupid question but i figured id as. if so it will have to be a taller one right?

 

The threads need to be at the open end. Drop a spacer over it, a large washer, then a nut. Tighten nut to pull stud a little. Then more washers and re-tighten nut.

If the head is up will need to have nut on bolt first. Then can't place more washers on it. Could use some split spacers and such. All depends what is available.

RBob.

 

Or put the rocker arm back on, adjust it as best you can, start the engine and slowly let the valvetrain action tap the stud out for you. If it's loose enough to turn it's probably loose enough that it'll slowly work it's way out while the motor is running.

 

the rocker arm will not tighten thats the thing there are NO THREADS AT ALL left ive tryed but the stud is in there tight im not having probs with it pullin out i just cant get it out! lol well i got the slide hammer and two nuts that will screw onto it and the guy that is going to weld it for me will be here soon. what we are gona do is tack one nut on the stud then tack the other onto that nut and screw on the hammer and then hope for the best. ill post how it goes

 

Well, here's another shot...

Heat it up just before red...have the die on the stud, then while it's still very hot, just before a dull red, you should be able to die it and work past any hardening the stud has.

You'll have to be quick and prepared with the right holder for the die, experiment first with the die and correct socket to fit it. Don't bother with any lube/anti siexe, etc, torch will cook it and render it useless.

I've done the same thing to weld and mod on large truck shifters, they're hardened deep as well...heat up and weld while just before red before and weld before they temper hard again.

I'd still whack it off and tap it though.

 

what have i learned from this experiance.....that when i build a motor dont forget to get the heads drilled and taped for screw in studs! lol im hoping to get this thing going by the end of the week (fingers crossed) i just ave to get some time when im actualy home when there is light out and have all the tools/parts. i think i have everything now so all that needs to be done is tack it on and jerk the thing out. i wish i could weld better than i do so i dont hve to relie on others to help me

 

ok i welded on a nut to the stud and used the slid hammer and the weld broke so now im stumped. someone told me that there is a tool that just sits on the head and grabs onto the stud to pull it out and sould take no more than seconds but i dunno is that the tool that ive been asking about already? noone has one wxcept i can order a whole tool set like it for $50+ but i dont want to if its not gonna be right.

 

Ya needs to learn to weld

Apply all the heat to the stud...my "guess" is the weld broke at the stud, and stuck to the nut?

It is tough to do with such a small hole to work with, so preheat the stud close to red, (have a helper nearby) and lay the nut over the stud then apply all the weld into the stud and then go grab the nut.

Or, start the nut below the stud a good 1/4inch, and start welding around the stud then catch the nut (you'll probably still need a helper to hold at the right height).

Last but not least, I think Vader posted above about a stud puller that would work?????

 

ok well i didnt actualy do the initial welding but a friend did and all we had to work with was a arc welder even a pair of vice grips and a 3foot pry bar wouldnt pull it out!! im realy starting to get upset with this thing. ok is this the extractor? Stud Extractor Set 4pc 55641 Draper SES
ive even tryed on of these and no luck Stud Extractor 1/2 Drive 6-19mm 14156 Draper 408

please help ive got literaly less than a day and a half till i gotta get it goin. im gona go by napa tomarrow and see if there machine shop has a tool i can borrow to pull the stud.

 

well ive decided to just break down and pull the heads and get screw in studs and guide plates instaled. while im at it im gona cut my old exhaust system off and start with my new system and a better cam/intake swap and posibly finaly swap to vacume advance dist and non cc carb

 

well it turned out to be a good thing that i pulled the heads the shop only charged $45 to do the studs + the cost of the studs and the no.8 sxhaust valve was bent adn the guide was cracked.

 

Good that it worked out. Now you have one less thing to worry about.