Are ZZ4 crankshafts internally or externally balanced?
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Are ZZ4 crankshafts internally or externally balanced?
Question applies to the forged crankshaft, not the periodic cast ones they were using a while ago.
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They are internally balanced, and require the little bat-wing weight on the flex plate like other 1-pc RMS internally-balanced motors.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
They are internally balanced, and require the little bat-wing weight on the flex plate like other 1-pc RMS internally-balanced motors.
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From: Adrian, Mi
Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 350 but it's torn down right now.
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: I'm working on it,lol.
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
They are internally balanced, and require the little bat-wing weight on the flex plate like other 1-pc RMS internally-balanced motors.
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From: Orange, CA
Car: '90 Trans Am-12.45@110.71
Engine: 355 w/AFR 195's Elem. 400/430 HP/TQ
Transmission: Tremec T-56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt 3.73
Originally Posted by iroczracer07
Incorrect. 86 and later smallblock chevy's with the 1 piece rear main seal are externally balanced and require a specific flywheel flexplate and torsional damper. It isn't externally balanced like a 400, but instead the weight is located on the inner hub of the balancer. The flywheel/flexplate, is easily recognized by the additional weight and the holes that are drilled in them. DO NOT interchange internally balanced components with the flexplate and balancer or the engine will suffer a sever imbalance condition that could create catastrophic results.
The one piece is internally balanced on the front but not the back.
So....a regular balancer on the front and a weighted flywheel (or flexplate) on the back.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally Posted by Dyno Don
Not completely correct either.
The one piece is internally balanced on the front but not the back.
So....a regular balancer on the front and a weighted flywheel (or flexplate) on the back.
The one piece is internally balanced on the front but not the back.
So....a regular balancer on the front and a weighted flywheel (or flexplate) on the back.
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From: Adrian, Mi
Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 350 but it's torn down right now.
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: I'm working on it,lol.
Originally Posted by Dyno Don
Not completely correct either.
The one piece is internally balanced on the front but not the back.
So....a regular balancer on the front and a weighted flywheel (or flexplate) on the back.
The one piece is internally balanced on the front but not the back.
So....a regular balancer on the front and a weighted flywheel (or flexplate) on the back.
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Car: 87 Berlinetta,work in progress
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Transmission: TH350,3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 9" Ford,learning how to live under
Originally Posted by Dyno Don
Not completely correct either.
The one piece is internally balanced on the front but not the back.
So....a regular balancer on the front and a weighted flywheel (or flexplate) on the back.
The one piece is internally balanced on the front but not the back.
So....a regular balancer on the front and a weighted flywheel (or flexplate) on the back.
Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
I will stand by my original statement.
They are internally balanced, and like ALL 1-pc RMS motors, require the little bat-wing weight on the flex plate to substitute for the half of the #7 & 8 throw balance weight that used to be on the flywheel flange.
The torsional damper is neutral-balanced, just like any other internally balanced motor.
"Internally" vs "externally" balanced, is NOT a function of which side of the oil seal that the balance weight is on. It is a function of whether the rod length allows sufficiently large counterweights to exist on the crank, to offset the journal bob weights, without the bottom of the pistons running into them when they're at BDC.
So as Dyno Don also put it, neutral balance torsional damper, and the correct flex plate or flywheel with the small weight on it, is correct. But just because your eyeball says the weight is "external" to the motor, doesn't make it "externally" balanced.
This question ALWAYS creates massive confusion and flame wars. It's the wrong question to ask anyway, because you don't buy your parts that way. You buy a flex plate for a 86-up 305/350, and it's what you need. Period. Applying the confusing verbage about "balance" is not helpful.
Yes Token, a stock 86-up damper is the correct choice.
They are internally balanced, and like ALL 1-pc RMS motors, require the little bat-wing weight on the flex plate to substitute for the half of the #7 & 8 throw balance weight that used to be on the flywheel flange.
The torsional damper is neutral-balanced, just like any other internally balanced motor.
"Internally" vs "externally" balanced, is NOT a function of which side of the oil seal that the balance weight is on. It is a function of whether the rod length allows sufficiently large counterweights to exist on the crank, to offset the journal bob weights, without the bottom of the pistons running into them when they're at BDC.
So as Dyno Don also put it, neutral balance torsional damper, and the correct flex plate or flywheel with the small weight on it, is correct. But just because your eyeball says the weight is "external" to the motor, doesn't make it "externally" balanced.
This question ALWAYS creates massive confusion and flame wars. It's the wrong question to ask anyway, because you don't buy your parts that way. You buy a flex plate for a 86-up 305/350, and it's what you need. Period. Applying the confusing verbage about "balance" is not helpful.
Yes Token, a stock 86-up damper is the correct choice.
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From: Springfield,Mo
Car: 87 Berlinetta,work in progress
Engine: 468 BB,still in the build process
Transmission: TH350,3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 9" Ford,learning how to live under
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
I will stand by my original statement.
They are internally balanced, and like ALL 1-pc RMS motors, require the little bat-wing weight on the flex plate to substitute for the half of the #7 & 8 throw balance weight that used to be on the flywheel flange.
The torsional damper is neutral-balanced, just like any other internally balanced motor.
"Internally" vs "externally" balanced, is NOT a function of which side of the oil seal that the balance weight is on. It is a function of whether the rod length allows sufficiently large counterweights to exist on the crank, to offset the journal bob weights, without the bottom of the pistons running into them when they're at BDC.
So as Dyno Don also put it, neutral balance torsional damper, and the correct flex plate or flywheel with the small weight on it, is correct. But just because your eyeball says the weight is "external" to the motor, doesn't make it "externally" balanced.
This question ALWAYS creates massive confusion and flame wars. It's the wrong question to ask anyway, because you don't buy your parts that way. You buy a flex plate for a 86-up 305/350, and it's what you need. Period. Applying the confusing verbage about "balance" is not helpful.
Yes Token, a stock 86-up damper is the correct choice.
They are internally balanced, and like ALL 1-pc RMS motors, require the little bat-wing weight on the flex plate to substitute for the half of the #7 & 8 throw balance weight that used to be on the flywheel flange.
The torsional damper is neutral-balanced, just like any other internally balanced motor.
"Internally" vs "externally" balanced, is NOT a function of which side of the oil seal that the balance weight is on. It is a function of whether the rod length allows sufficiently large counterweights to exist on the crank, to offset the journal bob weights, without the bottom of the pistons running into them when they're at BDC.
So as Dyno Don also put it, neutral balance torsional damper, and the correct flex plate or flywheel with the small weight on it, is correct. But just because your eyeball says the weight is "external" to the motor, doesn't make it "externally" balanced.
This question ALWAYS creates massive confusion and flame wars. It's the wrong question to ask anyway, because you don't buy your parts that way. You buy a flex plate for a 86-up 305/350, and it's what you need. Period. Applying the confusing verbage about "balance" is not helpful.
Yes Token, a stock 86-up damper is the correct choice.
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Adrian, Mi
Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 350 but it's torn down right now.
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: I'm working on it,lol.
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
I will stand by my original statement.
They are internally balanced, and like ALL 1-pc RMS motors, require the little bat-wing weight on the flex plate to substitute for the half of the #7 & 8 throw balance weight that used to be on the flywheel flange.
The torsional damper is neutral-balanced, just like any other internally balanced motor.
"Internally" vs "externally" balanced, is NOT a function of which side of the oil seal that the balance weight is on. It is a function of whether the rod length allows sufficiently large counterweights to exist on the crank, to offset the journal bob weights, without the bottom of the pistons running into them when they're at BDC.
So as Dyno Don also put it, neutral balance torsional damper, and the correct flex plate or flywheel with the small weight on it, is correct. But just because your eyeball says the weight is "external" to the motor, doesn't make it "externally" balanced.
This question ALWAYS creates massive confusion and flame wars. It's the wrong question to ask anyway, because you don't buy your parts that way. You buy a flex plate for a 86-up 305/350, and it's what you need. Period. Applying the confusing verbage about "balance" is not helpful.
Yes Token, a stock 86-up damper is the correct choice.
They are internally balanced, and like ALL 1-pc RMS motors, require the little bat-wing weight on the flex plate to substitute for the half of the #7 & 8 throw balance weight that used to be on the flywheel flange.
The torsional damper is neutral-balanced, just like any other internally balanced motor.
"Internally" vs "externally" balanced, is NOT a function of which side of the oil seal that the balance weight is on. It is a function of whether the rod length allows sufficiently large counterweights to exist on the crank, to offset the journal bob weights, without the bottom of the pistons running into them when they're at BDC.
So as Dyno Don also put it, neutral balance torsional damper, and the correct flex plate or flywheel with the small weight on it, is correct. But just because your eyeball says the weight is "external" to the motor, doesn't make it "externally" balanced.
This question ALWAYS creates massive confusion and flame wars. It's the wrong question to ask anyway, because you don't buy your parts that way. You buy a flex plate for a 86-up 305/350, and it's what you need. Period. Applying the confusing verbage about "balance" is not helpful.
Yes Token, a stock 86-up damper is the correct choice.
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From: Santa Rosa, Cali
Car: 1988 IROC 5.7 Money Pit
Engine: (being built; modified TPI ZZ4
Transmission: 2200 stall/ stage 3 700R4
Axle/Gears: freshened 3.27 in 9.bolt/
Token: what did you end up doing???
I ask, as I'm in the process of putting together a ZZ4 bare block for my 88 IROC. I'm wanting it to be as balanced and longevity minded as possible. With so many balancers and flywheel manufactures out there it's hard to know what's the difference between a great part and a really-really great part. What did you decide to do for your timing chain?
Thanks, Nitro
I ask, as I'm in the process of putting together a ZZ4 bare block for my 88 IROC. I'm wanting it to be as balanced and longevity minded as possible. With so many balancers and flywheel manufactures out there it's hard to know what's the difference between a great part and a really-really great part. What did you decide to do for your timing chain?
Thanks, Nitro
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Stock GM 1 PC RMS cranks use a weighted flexplate/flywheel and a neutral balance harmonic balancer(doesn't balance at all, rather dampens), PERIOD.
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
"Now that's the correct question. . ."
(Where have I heard that before???)
The damper is a neutrally-balanced type. Doesn't have to be '86-up, just the size you want and neutrally balanced.
Flexplate is for one-piece rear main seal, '86-up. As sofa has said time and time again, it has a weight on it - Doesn't make it externally-balanced, just makes it one-piece rear main seal type.
(Where have I heard that before???)
The damper is a neutrally-balanced type. Doesn't have to be '86-up, just the size you want and neutrally balanced.
Flexplate is for one-piece rear main seal, '86-up. As sofa has said time and time again, it has a weight on it - Doesn't make it externally-balanced, just makes it one-piece rear main seal type.
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