Pulling the gas tank... ugh :bs:
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Chester, VA
Car: '92 RS
Transmission: 700R4
Pulling the gas tank... ugh :bs:
Well, I'm spending this memorial day weekend replacing the fuel pump, and I've got the rear down, springs, panhard, trackbar, ect out and the tank straps off. I don't know if this is '92 specific, but there is a piece of sheetmetal on the passenger side of the tank that needs to be removed prior to taking the straps off (found that out the hard way). Another thing I've managed to find out the hard way is that my gas tank has a solid steel filler neck
. I can't twist the tank enough to get the neck out of the chassis.
Has anyone else found that they had a solid (unbendable) filler neck, and what did you do to get the tank out?
Also, since it's not viable to remove the rear end totally from the car, could I just cut the neck and patch it up with a rubber filler neck hose? ::shrugs::
The tank is currently being supported under the car via the filler neck, a cinder block, and the rear end. If anyone could shed some quick insight into this predicament, then please do so.
Almost there...
also, for bits and giggles, would a pin-sized hole in the muffler, at the weld to the exhaust tip, mean time for a flowmaster 80 series?
EDIT: I've read everywhere that the filler neck is supposed to be flexible, but looking at pics around here, it appears theyre all the same. Should the rear end go further down? It looks as though the brake line on the driver's side next to the differential is stressed as it is. Thanks
. I can't twist the tank enough to get the neck out of the chassis.Has anyone else found that they had a solid (unbendable) filler neck, and what did you do to get the tank out?
Also, since it's not viable to remove the rear end totally from the car, could I just cut the neck and patch it up with a rubber filler neck hose? ::shrugs::
The tank is currently being supported under the car via the filler neck, a cinder block, and the rear end. If anyone could shed some quick insight into this predicament, then please do so.
Almost there...
also, for bits and giggles, would a pin-sized hole in the muffler, at the weld to the exhaust tip, mean time for a flowmaster 80 series?

EDIT: I've read everywhere that the filler neck is supposed to be flexible, but looking at pics around here, it appears theyre all the same. Should the rear end go further down? It looks as though the brake line on the driver's side next to the differential is stressed as it is. Thanks
Last edited by purg3d; May 28, 2006 at 01:54 PM.
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,029
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From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
as for the filler neck ive done many of the fuel pump jobs i find that twisting therear of the tank down, and pushing up on the back will turn the filler neck enough so that you can pull it out. the filler neck will bend a little and is easily bent back into place. the sheet metal is a heat shield to keep the exhaust from heating up the gas tank (to an extent). I wouldn't cut the neck if i were you just more hassle. Once you get the secrets of getting it out it's easy every other time. just a warning dont get a stock replacement pump from advance or autozone unless its the bosch pump. that's why im so good at changing pumps.
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 125
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From: Chester, VA
Car: '92 RS
Transmission: 700R4
haha, I know what you mean about getting AZ crap. My brother went to a few different shops looking for a pipe cutter but didnt find one, instead he talked to a guy who showed him a picture of a gas tank which he said looked like the camaro's and said that the filler neck could be disconnected... is this possible?
On another note, it seems as though we've managed to puncture the tank while wrestling with it, what kind of shop should we look at to repair the tank?
Thanks for the heads up on removal, I'll try that
On another note, it seems as though we've managed to puncture the tank while wrestling with it, what kind of shop should we look at to repair the tank?
Thanks for the heads up on removal, I'll try that
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 408
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From: Chesterfield, VA
Car: '86 IROC, black and sharp
Engine: 305 tpi, bone stock
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 pos w/rear db
Some advice (learned from pulling the tank on my son's RS about a month ago) is that the tank will come out without completely removing the axle (is had to pretty well dropped down out of the way though) and the most important part is you may very well "crack" the seal between the tank and the filler neck while wrestling it around. The RS tank was in great shape (Central Virginia car) and we "rubbed" a good layer of blue (flexible) form a gasket around the neck to tank joint and let it dry overnight before putting the tank back in. Be sure you check for leaks at the neck to tank joint, the o-ring around the pump/line/sending unit cover and the spot where you repair it prior to putting the tank back in the car. If it leaks you want to know it before you put it back in.
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 125
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From: Chester, VA
Car: '92 RS
Transmission: 700R4
well, apparently there isnt a way to get this tank out without cutting the filler neck. It doesnt disconnect from the tank itself, nor does it bend anything but the chassis. It seems to be made out of steel, similar to exhaust tubing.
Under the same principal of exhaust systems, could we cut the filler neck at a strait place, and then reattach it with a piece of tubing?
It just doesn't bend, which really bothers me. Are these the ones that the recall was issued on, or did that have to do with the plastic flange?
Either way, unless a miracle happends, this neck is getting the axe.
edit: just realized you're in the neighborhood Z, care to make a few bucks?
Under the same principal of exhaust systems, could we cut the filler neck at a strait place, and then reattach it with a piece of tubing?
It just doesn't bend, which really bothers me. Are these the ones that the recall was issued on, or did that have to do with the plastic flange?
Either way, unless a miracle happends, this neck is getting the axe.
edit: just realized you're in the neighborhood Z, care to make a few bucks?
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Joined: Mar 2006
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Car: 1987 IROC 1991 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI 5.0 TBI
Transmission: T-5 , 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 twice
All I have to say is that I have dropped the gas tank about 4 different times between 3 cars, the axle has to come almost completely off to get it as far down as possible, I left the LCA's bolted up to it and unbolted the lines for the brakes to relieve the stress and jacked up the body as high as I could go. It is a real pain the first time, there is a lot of twisting the gas tank to get it out, it takes time but its better than cutting a hole above the tank (the easy way).
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Chester, VA
Car: '92 RS
Transmission: 700R4
wouldn't think of cutting an "axecess" hole if it meant life or death
. To give you an idea of how low the rear end of the car is actually sitting, I've got the car on jacks placed on the sub frame rail just in front of where the LCA connects, which is 11 inches high, or 1 circle viewable (autozone jack stand, eh, might know what I'm talking about), and the rear diff of the axle sits about 9 inches from the ground. Lower? I'll tryyy
I'm going to unbolt the brake line on the driver's side near the rear diff and see if I can't lower it further, but what it is becoming increasingly obvious is that I don't have it jacked up high enough in the first place. Any suggestions for that?
I'll work on it till dusk and check back to avoid posting more than I should. If you feel the need to lend a hand, then you're more than welcome to. Colonial Heights/Chesterfield Border, right off 95.
. To give you an idea of how low the rear end of the car is actually sitting, I've got the car on jacks placed on the sub frame rail just in front of where the LCA connects, which is 11 inches high, or 1 circle viewable (autozone jack stand, eh, might know what I'm talking about), and the rear diff of the axle sits about 9 inches from the ground. Lower? I'll tryyyI'm going to unbolt the brake line on the driver's side near the rear diff and see if I can't lower it further, but what it is becoming increasingly obvious is that I don't have it jacked up high enough in the first place. Any suggestions for that?
I'll work on it till dusk and check back to avoid posting more than I should. If you feel the need to lend a hand, then you're more than welcome to. Colonial Heights/Chesterfield Border, right off 95.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 125
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From: Chester, VA
Car: '92 RS
Transmission: 700R4
Originally Posted by RBob
Other helpful item is to remove the plastic shield from the filler door area. And remove the gas cap.
RBob.
RBob.
that was all taken care of earlier this afternoon. What I'm looking at is a filler spout that won't go through a right triangle with a curved hypotenuse.. aka the chassis. Every twist and turn I've tried, and cannot get the neck out of the hole. The tank is now busted somewhere, and I'm working on cutting the neck away from the tank itself at this point. It's seriously almost as thick as exhaust tubing, and won't bend like I've read on the forum. Instead of it bending, it's bent the chassis.
Once I manage to get this taken care of, I will now be looking for a replacement filler neck, I guess. It's time I stop "working" on my car today apparently.
HAPPY MEMORIAL DAY EVERYONE!!!
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 60
From: Danville, IN
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12 Bolt, 3.42
I've dropped fuel tanks a few times in these cars. In some cases they seem to come out easier than others. Like others have said drop the rear as far as it will go, and seperate the brake lines from the rear so you won't damage them. Drop the exhaust or cut it off if you need to. I always remove the black plastic shield behind the filler door. I have also had to trim the metal triangle the filler neck goes through (the part just a couple inches behind the filler door)on some cars to allow enough clearance so you can get it out without bending the filler neck. Not real easy but a dremmel tool will do it..and/or a big screw driver and hammer to bend it. All you need is a little extra clearance and it normally drops right out.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Chester, VA
Car: '92 RS
Transmission: 700R4
thanks for the info on trimming the triangle
. I considered it, but didn't have a dremel too handy, and the recip saw wouldnt reach.
the good news is we got it out. The tank is in good condition, looks almost new shy of a few dents, and doesn't look to have any puncture wounds from the wrestling match.
the bad news is the filler neck is cut all to hell. I'm not sure if we managed to bend it out, or just simply used brute force to get it out, but it's out and sitting on saw horses.
I'm guessing theres no part number that would contain only the filler neck. There might be a possibility I can clamp it back into position using a sleeve or a flexible rubber hose.. any suggestions?
Thanks, and please excuse my last post. I think I was losing/had lost my marbles.
annd edit: I noticed there is a large area where the filler neck is attached to the tank, where it is stripped clean of paint, looks to be a dripping fashion, exactly like the safety recall states. If I were to bring such a defect into a chevy dealership, short of the car itself, do you think they would replace the tank for me, free of charge? Ah wouldn't that be nice. I assume the shop would could access a record of whether or not my car was serviced for this defect?
That would make my weekend worth while.
. I considered it, but didn't have a dremel too handy, and the recip saw wouldnt reach.the good news is we got it out. The tank is in good condition, looks almost new shy of a few dents, and doesn't look to have any puncture wounds from the wrestling match.
the bad news is the filler neck is cut all to hell. I'm not sure if we managed to bend it out, or just simply used brute force to get it out, but it's out and sitting on saw horses.
I'm guessing theres no part number that would contain only the filler neck. There might be a possibility I can clamp it back into position using a sleeve or a flexible rubber hose.. any suggestions?
Thanks, and please excuse my last post. I think I was losing/had lost my marbles.

annd edit: I noticed there is a large area where the filler neck is attached to the tank, where it is stripped clean of paint, looks to be a dripping fashion, exactly like the safety recall states. If I were to bring such a defect into a chevy dealership, short of the car itself, do you think they would replace the tank for me, free of charge? Ah wouldn't that be nice. I assume the shop would could access a record of whether or not my car was serviced for this defect?
That would make my weekend worth while.
Last edited by purg3d; May 28, 2006 at 07:03 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
Car: '87 Camaro SC
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: 700r4
I tried for 45 minutes to figure out a way to get my tank out. It was like a rubic's cube. I finally got so mad that I kicked it and it fell out on me!
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From: E.B.F. TN
Car: Tree Huggers
Engine: Do Not
Transmission: Appreciate Me.
Make sure it's high enough, then drop the pass side a bit first and then slide out at that angle downward. It should slide right out.
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 125
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From: Chester, VA
Car: '92 RS
Transmission: 700R4
Eh, I should have just trimmed the triangle to get it to come out. I guess I was too caught up in the idea that the neck could bend in the first place. Live and learn i reckon.
Are the tanks the same between v6 and v8, 82-92? I just might have to go junkyard shopping this week as a replacement costs ~$230
If 4th gens were a direct fit that would help too.. I'll check some part numbers and get back with what I find.
Are the tanks the same between v6 and v8, 82-92? I just might have to go junkyard shopping this week as a replacement costs ~$230
If 4th gens were a direct fit that would help too.. I'll check some part numbers and get back with what I find.
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