350 Chevy block question

Subscribe
Jun 7, 2006 | 10:49 AM
  #1  
I am about to rebuild my 5.7 tune port, and I havent sent my block and heads to the machine shop yet. I found a great deal on a 350 minus intake already built and assembled. Question is will my tune port work on another block if everything matched bolt wise? Thanks in advance.
Reply 0
Jun 7, 2006 | 10:58 AM
  #2  
The biggest variable is going to be the cylinder heads that are on the other 350 engine. If the heads are '87-'95 heads like the original tuned port heads (083 castings), then they will work... However, if they are older heads or aftermarket heads without the canted center intake bolt pairs, then the manifold won't bolt up without some work... Of course, you could buy an aftermarket intake to resolve all of that, but thats more money.. '87 and later iron heads have 72* center intake bolt angles.
Reply 0
Jun 7, 2006 | 11:06 AM
  #3  
Thanks I believe the engine was out of late 70's or early 80's malibu. I think it would be easier just keep my original block and heads.
Reply 0
Jun 7, 2006 | 11:14 AM
  #4  
What easiest way to get the 5.7 over 300hp without over spending budget?
Reply 0
Jun 7, 2006 | 12:40 PM
  #5  
300 at the fly or at the ground?


Some PROM tuning can get you some pretty substantial gains and will pretty much be a must if your modding the motor.
Reply 0
Jun 7, 2006 | 01:40 PM
  #6  
i'd rebuild your 350 block, rather then get a pre-done one. Mostly due to the fact you have a roller block, which is a better start then a flat tappet block.


Just about any 350, with a halfway intelligent set of parts in it, should get 300HP at the crank. I wouldn't be too concerned with a HP # that you can throw around in conversation, be happy with a nice big torque number from your TPI motor. That'll make tire smoke, and launch you back into the seat.
Reply 0
Jun 7, 2006 | 07:34 PM
  #7  
Well i decided to rebuild what I got. I going to put her back pretty much stock. There just isnt any cheap upgrades on a tpi 350.Thanks for all the help!
Reply 0
Jun 7, 2006 | 07:52 PM
  #8  
good choice.

you can throw on a few little things while rebuilding it, to help it stay more reliable, and have a bit more "oomph". Things like a steel oil pump driveshaft, true roller timing chain etc. A more agressive low duration roller cam would be a good HP/$ upgrade, while you have it all apart. just a thought
Reply 0
Jun 7, 2006 | 08:21 PM
  #9  
What would be good more agressive low end roller cam. Point me in the right direction. I was just told today by the local performance shop, that without porting the heads and intake the gains wouldn't be noticable. I just dont wanna miss something I should have done while the engine is disassembled.
Reply 0
Jun 7, 2006 | 09:31 PM
  #10  
Quote: good choice.

Things like a steel oil pump driveshaft
Heh, I didnt even know what that was until the shop I had build my motor put one in and was telling me everything they did.

Good tip!
Reply 0
Jun 7, 2006 | 11:13 PM
  #11  
yea, these are the things you learn *after* you build it

but hey, that's why you have this forum eh?

the steel oil pump shaft is $12 worth of insurance. A high pressure spring is a kinda nifty upgrade too. I can't think of any others off the top of my head....

Do you think porting your heads, and possibly intake is in your range of options?

cams; XR258HR or 264HR, with the 112 LSA
or like a 252XFI HR13....

I'm not super familiar with roller cam specs, so I just nabbed a few from comps website. Look for an agressive roller cam. Low 200 duration, like sub 220 duration on intake and exhaust, and above .450" lift. With an LSA in the 112-114 range. That'll work with the stock computer, low duration won't tick off the computer, and give a normal idle, but the larger lift will give a boost in power. Stock I think your cam has about .400" lift.... (right guys?)
Reply 0
Subscribe