I have been looking for some 30w NON DETERGANT oil to use in my new engine for its initial break in but I cant seem to find a 30w oil that is non detergant and recomended for new engines. The ones at autozone have detergants in them or is not then it says on the container "not for use on new or newly rebuilt engines or late model engines with hydraulic lifters". What can use guys?

 

I just used el-cheapo mineral 10w30 on my break in's...

Changed it a few times in the first few days (why not, for $15 a change...) then after a week i dropped in the synthetic.

 

i wouldn't worry about it too much, there's lot more new or refreshed engines start up on detergent oil than not. buy some 30w and gm EOS or buy some shell rotella.

 

The paperwork that came with my new cam said to use rotella t. hopefully that will be sunday.

 

Broken in 3 different engines on mineral oil and had no problems. Changed oil and filter after initial start up. Hot Rod magazine did a good article about flat tappet cams and oil compatibality last month-interesting to say the least. Might think about picking up a copy.

 

Napa stocks the non detergent oil.

 

I second Ede's reccomendation of Rotella,it clings to **** real well.

 

mineral oil?? never heard of that before! i guess it would work though!

 

Theres no reason to use a non-detergent oil for break in. None.

I'm still in the process of breaking in my motor and am running Supertech HD-30. A straight 30 wt will be fine. Since I've already put 28 qts of oil in my motor it starts to add up. Since Supertech is made by the Mobil 1 people it works well.

Oil is full of a bunch of hype. Do some reasearch and you will find out moe than you ever wanted to know.

bobistheoilguy.com

EOS is good stuff to use as well. Its designed to be an assembly lubricant but for the initial break in it doesn't hurt anything. If you're running a flat tappet it gives a lot of the zinc cams need.

 

well, Im just gonna stick with what I already have in the engine from priming it., Mobil 1 5w30. Ill add a bottle of EOS to it also

 

mobil 1? I thought mobil 1 is synthetic... (if they make a normal oil you're ok.)

I think I remember your previous thread about this, just wanted to make sure you're not using synthetic...

 

Theres really nothing wrong with synthetic either, just the fact new motors usually get their oil changed a couple times in a short time period and Mobil 1 (or any other synthetic) is much more expensive.

What you have in there will be perfect. EOS can only help more, just don't go overboard with it.

 

I was under the impression that synthetic can wipe cams and not let rings seat properly.

 

uhh, ok, either way, post back after the motor is broken in, and you've run it for a while. In this thread.

 

Some say, depending on the hone job, the rings can seat themselves just by turning the motor over on the stand. I don't know if I believe all that but I've heard it many times over.

About synthetics for break in...I've still yet to find any hard proof that running a synthetic on break in can hurt a motor. Too much lubrication???
Now, also mentioning some stuff that Hot Rod wrote about when they did their article on cam break in and all the flat tappet cam failures in recent years; oil is starting to become very controlled. Emissions standards are making oil companys change their oil formulations which remove the necessary additives and minerals for proper cam break in. Thats why the GM EOS stuff is great to use on the initial startup and 500 mile OCI. Still don't have anything about synthetics specificially.

Why do you think Corvettes leave the factory with M1 (Mobil 1) from the beginning?

 

I remember reading a thread a little while ago, a guy posted asking why his cam went flat on break in, and he had followed procedure to a T, but used synthetic oil....

sorry CamaroRUS, I am mistaken, it is just the cam (flat tappet) to be worried about, not the rings. So on a roller cam, you're ok.
Fuzzy memory.

 

IIRC I read an artical in on of my magazines that synthetic can hurt flat tappet cams because it dosen't have enough zinc in it or somthing like that, sombody ells has to have that artical....I don't remember what magazine it was in...it had allot of good info though

 

Some of the guys here recommend using shell rotella oil. Its supposed to still be loaded with zinc...