While trying to spin a pushrod with your fingers, I was told to tighten the bolt on the rocker arm until you feel only slight resistance on the pushrod. Or else I will get engine damage at start up.

#1: How far could I tighten it before I could damage the engine?
#2: Is there a torque spec on the rocker arm bolts?

I've never done this before and I need all the info I could get.

 

Zero Lash is when the tip of the rocker arm is seated on the rod and doesnt move up and down, then your 1/4 to 1/2 turn seats the plunger in the lifter, it is hard to determine when the rocker seats on the rod, I like to hold the rocker back on the tip of the valve and tighten the nut until you feel it touch your push rod, then try and rock it forward and feel it depress the lifter plunger, then you can do your 1/4 to 1/2 turn, hope this helps, and if any one has any else has any input on this method please let me know
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also did you pump and soak your lifters before installing them?

 

I dont use the spin method as they can still spin past zero lash.

I wiggle them up and down till i feel zero lash then do my 1/2 turn.

Seems to work for me.


If you overtighten them, the worst case scenerio is a bunch of bent pushrods and a screwed cam and most likely a complete engine failure from all the metal floating around.

But in most cases their tightened just a bit too much and it causes to valves to stay slightly open and cause a no-start.

 

nah, I didn't install any lifters. I'm just starting to get rod knock and I think im sure that it's rod knock cause i put my ear up to the valve cover while reving it and I hear it. I'm pretty sure its not an exhaust leak. This car has very low mileage, im lucky to even have it in the first place. I'm not the type of person who puts a diffrent engine in the car every year haha. I know very little about engine tuning and I don't wanna total it by tightening these bolts too much because this thing is my daily driver.

sooo basically i have a bunch more questions to be answered cause i just wanna be sure...

#1: with the valve covers off, how long could I run the car? Do i have to be constantly pouring oil over the engine?

#2: I wanna re-tourqe my heads while I have the valve covers off, does it matter if I do that first or second? (i dont think so)

#3: Before doing the whole zero-lash thing, my manual says I need to set my number one piston to btc and tune a certain 4 sets of valves, and then set #6 piston to btc and do another certain 4. Do I have to do that?????


thanks guys

 

1) Cut the center out of an old set of valvecovers, keeps oil from splashing everywhere.

2) whichever one make you feel best

3) Yes their is a specific order you HAVE to lash them in. But the method you have descibed is not reccomended for any aftermarket cam as some of the lifters may not be fully on base circle.

 

Like 84z28 said, the Haynes or chiltons way of doing it is unreliable, you should do a search on the Intake closing exhaust opening method, I find that works really well if your gonna do it without the engine running. and definately try and find a set of cut valve covers if your going to adjust with it running it saves a alot of clean up, if not jimmy rig some cardboard to contain all the oil splashing around. I find the running way is much better just makes a huge mess and you get burned alot if you have more than two or three to adjust.

 

first off thanks so much you guys im understanding more. ill see if i could get a pair of valve covers at a junk yard, maybe not a bad idea? or just buy nice new covers but anywho... I have not installed a new cam, I just wanna stop that small rod knock I hear. I would never install a cam by myself haha. hmmm I figured a way I could do this.......

I could give the loose rods 1/2 a turn or less becuase it won't damage the engine, esp when the rod is loose to begin with. Correct? Also how the hell do I know when my #6 piston is on btc?? What would you guys do if you had my problem??

because I'm a rookie, I NEVER KNEW I COULD ADJUST IT WITH THE ENGINE ON! Possibly I could do that, and turn the nut VERY LITTLE till the sound goes away?
Would this be easier?????? What would you guys do????

 

Because you've never done it and you dont know which one it is, I would do it while its running, its easy to do, with your mangled valve cover on or carboard start the engine and try and listen for which valve is loose, could be tough to locate if its not that loose, once you find make sure the enigne is warm, and back of the nut a 1/4 turn until it starts to rattle a little then slowly tighten the nut until ticking is not heard anymore on the valve then 1/4 turn only, remember you may have two side by side which makes it hard to tell when the first one is tight but you should be okay, just go slow and use a short extension so you dont get covered in oil, if you can get your hands on a mechanics stethiscope it helps a lot. But Im making it sound harder then it is...I would say give it a shot.. Im sure others will give there opinons on this method as well and youll understand its ease better