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Oil Pressure at 10 PSI at Idle...Fresh Rebuild!!!

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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 08:49 PM
  #1  
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
Oil Pressure at 10 PSI at Idle...Fresh Rebuild!!!

I might be getting too well known for this new motor lately...

Its verified with a mech gauge. 10 PSI at warm idle. Melling M55A pump (never used before but older). Supertech HD-30. Seems to be fine with RPM...almost hits 60 at 3-4k.

Any ideas here??? (If you don't know I have metal shavings in the oil...Three oil changes no difference; still from break in maybe? Started the new motor three times but it only has a few miles on it and maybe an hour and a half of run time).

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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 09:11 PM
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
stop starting new threads! You're polluting this forum

Hot idle pressure is "spec'ed" as being 15psi or so, right? You open up those clearances a *tad*, and the pressure drops. Usually the clearances are a bit wider on a performance motor, so that when it heats up, it won't seize.

My machinist said he was going to turn my crank 10/10, "mid", since it's a performance motor.

I wouldn't worry about. If you're losing sleep, put in the high pressure spring.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 09:48 PM
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CamarosRUS's Avatar
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
lol...I've just so many problems its hard keeping one thread on topic (Don't worry, I've got yet another coming)

If I didn't have the metal in the oil I'd feel much better...
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 05:31 AM
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ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
10psi is a bit low but not really out of spec, but then again the spec is a bit low compared to what most engines have. as a rule a SBC will carry 30psi if not more hot. if you're sure the 10psi is accurate i'd suspect some wide clearances on the bearings and a need for a HV pump. what are your clearances set at?
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 09:43 AM
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CamarosRUS's Avatar
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
I'm confident with the pressure reading because of my new mechanical gauge I hooked up to verify everything. Got to check the clearances with the original builder (JTMiller92) and my friend who took a look at everything. I might try to throw the high pressure spring on the pump I have. That means jacking up the motor somehow and doing all that mess...might as well pull it and rebuild it
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 03:35 PM
  #6  
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Car: a car being parted out
Engine: blown up
Transmission: in peices
I always start with a HV pump in a good new motor...
Hell same price as normal... so why not...
I get 30-35 Lbs CRANKING... at 50-60 it is about 50 Lbs.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 03:41 PM
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From: Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
10psi per 1000RPM is good.

It does seem low but if its not knocking or chattering run it!
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 04:23 PM
  #8  
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
As long as your valve lifters are quiet at idle and you get 50-55PSi oil pressure at 3000rpm. You're fine. My 406 only has about 15PSi hot at idle. Same pump as yours. Yu can try some 20w-50 oil. Just be sure to warm it up fully before going WOT.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 07:57 PM
  #9  
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
I think everything is quiet but once again, I'm new at this and don't know exactly what I'm looking/listening for. Especially since everything is completly different and new.

I thought I might have heard some ticking or knocking at idle but it is probably my CAI rubbing the battery tray. I went with this pump because it came with the shortblock.
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 10:48 AM
  #10  
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
The oil pressure is fluctauting very rapidly from 40-50 PSI on the mehcanical gauge when the RPM's are up. It stays pretty steady at 10 PSI at idle. This normal?
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 11:17 AM
  #11  
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Yea, I think so. My electric gauge fluctuates a bit, a mechanical gauge would be less dampened, and show it more.
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 02:18 PM
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
My question would be "why is there metal shavings still in the oil" On both my rebuilds I have little if none on the first change at 100 miles. Other then that nothing. Also my clearances are about .0028 and I run Valvoline VR1 20W-50
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 02:28 PM
  #13  
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
Yea thats my question too...
I don't know if I'm over reacting but I just don't think I am. The actual oil from the pan has a glittery sheen to it and the oil that I poured from the oil filter has slightly larger 'particles' of metal that you can BARELY feel with your fingers. The drain plug has also had a slight amount of shavings on it each change. I don't have a whole lot of run time on the motor because its running like crap. With the multiple problems I'm having its tough to fix one problem and rule it out.
I've heard the low pressure is fine and its too low, who knows anymore but I need someone who knows what they're looking for you come look at this stupid car.
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 02:45 PM
  #14  
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
With the new motors nowadays and roller cams, there should accually be nothing in the pan. Before the VR1. I ran regular 10w-30 with a stock M55 pump and achieved about 20psi HOT at idle in traffic in both motors. Idle was also about 600 in drive.
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