does anyone know if it is possible to remove the oil pan with out having to unbolt the transmission arangement.. im puting in a 7 quart oild pan because i had a leak.. i am also runing a manual transmission stock belhousing... thanks in advance

 

you can do it w/o removing the trans, but you'll have to either pull the motor or drop the k-member. - With an 7 qrt, makes sure it doesn't hang to low(most do) or you'll have a serious leak.

 

I have removed my stock pan by removing the motor mount bolts and jacking up on the engine some (watch that distributor on the firewall!) - but I have no idea on the new pan and getting it in.

 

the oil pan in stock depth 7 1/2 inches, i think i'll jack the motor up because i have never messed with the k member. if i loosen up the bolts from the intake manifold to lift with the cherry picker will i have to do anything else? i dont want to cause a leak through the intake manifold either

 

Pull the distributor cap, just to be safe, remove engine mount bolts, jack up engine enough to get pan access. You might have to reach in the back of the pan, while its hanging down, and remove the oil pump bolt, and let the pump drop into the pan. Then it should slide out with the trans in place. Now, getting the larger pan to replace it, might be a bit harder, and as said above, dropping the K-member might be the easiest way.

Also, I am going to move this to the engine board, so it might get more hits.

 

What are your reasons for going to a 7 quart oil pan?

 

the stock pan leaks in the rear and i just wanted to upgrade to something that has better overall oil control while i was at it. is it difficult to drop the k member?

 

If you are installing a pan, along with a windage tray, or crank scraper,(which must be custom fit to your crank), you will gain oil control. The pan itself will do nothing more than add more oil capacity, unless it has a trap door in it, that keeps oil around the pickup area.

 

be carefull,
I switched from my stock oil pan to a 6 quart which reduced the area that is in between the crossmember and the oilpan. This then gives you less room for your y pipe from the driver to crossover to the passenger side. With my edelbrocks it started to rattel and shake and i could feel it on the floor board it was no fun. To the point to where some of the oil pan bolts fell out over time. I wrapped the y pipe up in header wrap and wedged it up in there but over time the wrap dried up and it started to rattle again. I dont know how much clearence that 7 quart you want to use will give you but im just letting you know thats what happened to me when i used a moroso 6 quart
good luck man

 

thus also meaning higher oil temperature.

 

What do you jack the motor up from? crank pulley?

 

i believe it is the crank pulley i use 2 x 4 on the jack for cushion, or use an engine lift too

 

TTT for methods of jacking up the motor.

I need to pull my pan but dont have an engine hoist and was afraid jacking it up by the crank pulley/dampner might cause some damage.

 

Alot of people say not to jack on the dampener. However, I did mine this way - with the 2x4 chunk as a cushion. I was really slow, and careful, and gentle, and only jacked as much as I had to, and in the end it didn't seem to affect anything.

Another method would be to use a 2x4 under the oil pan, making sure it goes all the way across, and jack using the pan - you can sit a motor on it's pan without crushing it as long as the weight is distributed across the width of the pan - just look in the back of any pickup carrying a motor. Then - you can insert 2x4 chunks under the motor mounts to support it, while you remove the jack from the pan and remove the pan. This would keep from damaging the harmonic balancer, and worse case is you bend a part that is being removed anyways (the old pan).

 

Well after hours of getting everything off the motor to pull the pan I find out I can't get my pan off even after jacking up the motor.

Im running the T-5 and have a 6qt Moroso pan so I guess the motor has to come completly out now.

brutalform....it might be hitting the pump pickup. If I can get my hand in there to pull the pump and get the pan off any advise on getting it all back on properly?

 

So basically, the pan will not slide out from behind, because your bellhousing is in the way? You might have more work ahead of you then, by removing the trans, and bellhousing. I have done them with out removing the trans. You can get your hand in there to unbolt the pump. Just reinstall the pump, in the reverse order, and retorque the bolt to spec. I think you might not have the engine up high enough, though.

 

Yea, the bellhousing is causing my grief. If I have to pull the tranny the motor is coming out for another rebuild probably.

I'll try and get the motor up a little higher but I'm thinking the motor is coming out soon...

 

Good luck! I hope it works out for you.