LO3 TBI miss at idle...and throughout driving range
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Joined: Jul 2005
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
LO3 TBI miss at idle...and throughout driving range
No big surprise here.
I have given the car a full tune up minus the spark plug wires, ignition module, and IAC valve.
I suspect the spark plug wires just because they are the only thing that came on the car that was original and by this I mean, it probably wasn't changed in the last 3-5 years.
Someone suggested it might be my ignition module or IAC. I don't wanna spend my money needlessly on parts I don't need to only find out that i still have that pesky miss.
What it will do is it will miss probably like 2 times every 5-8 seconds at idle, and when I am cruising through town, it will occasionally miss.
Sometimes the miss gets so bad the car tends to stall (but I know how to detect that now)
Any ideas?
I have given the car a full tune up minus the spark plug wires, ignition module, and IAC valve.
I suspect the spark plug wires just because they are the only thing that came on the car that was original and by this I mean, it probably wasn't changed in the last 3-5 years.
Someone suggested it might be my ignition module or IAC. I don't wanna spend my money needlessly on parts I don't need to only find out that i still have that pesky miss.
What it will do is it will miss probably like 2 times every 5-8 seconds at idle, and when I am cruising through town, it will occasionally miss.
Sometimes the miss gets so bad the car tends to stall (but I know how to detect that now)
Any ideas?
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From: Desert Heat
Car: 90 RS/90 Z-71/73 Vega
Engine: 3.1/5.7 TBI/5.7
Transmission: 700R4/700R4/350turbo
Axle/Gears: 3.23/3.42/3.42
I used to detect a secondary problem(plug wires/cap/coil etc.)If you have an automatic trans.Put your left on the brake and shift the car into a drive gear.With your right foot apply the gas pedal gently...increasing the rpms and see how the engine responds.If it misses and runs like crap your problem will usually lie in the wires/cap/coil etc.Your basically putting a load on the plugs wires...etc. also be careful cause if your brakes are weak you might lunge forward so do this where nothing is front of the car.You could also have a fuel problem.Process of elimination...
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Car: 1988 camaro "SS"/ 1991 305/T5
Engine: 383 LT1 in progress/LT1TBI 355 soon
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 3600 stall/ T5
Axle/Gears: Moser axles, 3.42 Eaton Posi
after you get the other stuff done.if you still have the same problem,check your throttle body.I searched for the longest time as to what my idle problem was until I started to get a whistling sound coming from my tbi.The throttle shafts tend to wear out over time causing a vacuum leak.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
Originally Posted by robertfrank
after you get the other stuff done.if you still have the same problem,check your throttle body.I searched for the longest time as to what my idle problem was until I started to get a whistling sound coming from my tbi.The throttle shafts tend to wear out over time causing a vacuum leak.
Whistle you say, does this "whistle" happen to sound like a supercharger when you are cruising at high rpms?
If I punch it in first gear, my TBI whistles like no tomorrow, it sounds like I have a supercharger tacked on...minus the power.
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,001
Likes: 62
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Car: 1988 camaro "SS"/ 1991 305/T5
Engine: 383 LT1 in progress/LT1TBI 355 soon
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 3600 stall/ T5
Axle/Gears: Moser axles, 3.42 Eaton Posi
mine only whistles if I give it a VERY slight touch on the throttle.just enough to barely crack open the blades.then it's whistlin dixie.
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
well I guess I am good on the throttle shafts then...mine doesnt really whistle but screams in high rpms...
gah, I guess I am going to have to take a wild guess and shoot for a plug wire problem....
gah, I guess I am going to have to take a wild guess and shoot for a plug wire problem....
Change the plug wires...if your were doing a tune up on something that really needed it, chances are it also needs wires.
You can check for a short in the wires, by runing the car at night, with any lights off, and look under the hood...it's amazing how a short will show up that you never could see during the day.
I had that problem with an old Nissan I had...checked it at night and *poof* there was short on the plug wires.
The whistling sound could be your IAC...but that does not mean it's bad..something else wrong could be telling it to open or close. If I'm not mistaken the IAC should only be operating when at idle or when getting off the gas for deceleration. Not sure though?
You can check for a short in the wires, by runing the car at night, with any lights off, and look under the hood...it's amazing how a short will show up that you never could see during the day.
I had that problem with an old Nissan I had...checked it at night and *poof* there was short on the plug wires.
The whistling sound could be your IAC...but that does not mean it's bad..something else wrong could be telling it to open or close. If I'm not mistaken the IAC should only be operating when at idle or when getting off the gas for deceleration. Not sure though?
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Thread Starter
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
well I observed closely at my plug wires and cannot see any sort arcing anywhere.
The wires have some corrosion on the insides...this would be the majority of them at the distributor.
But if my wires were messed up they should be ticking, sparking, arcing or doing something.
I dont wanna needlessly spend my money on something...
The wires have some corrosion on the insides...this would be the majority of them at the distributor.
But if my wires were messed up they should be ticking, sparking, arcing or doing something.
I dont wanna needlessly spend my money on something...
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From: Desert Heat
Car: 90 RS/90 Z-71/73 Vega
Engine: 3.1/5.7 TBI/5.7
Transmission: 700R4/700R4/350turbo
Axle/Gears: 3.23/3.42/3.42
from what you said I think you need some ignition wires.You wont be wasting money on needless stuff either.It sounds like you need a complete tune-up.Ignition cap/rotor/wires/plugs.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 566
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
well whatever it is, I have to find out what the problem is, because pretty soon I am gonna be driving this car about 50-60 miles a day and I need it to be in tip top shape.
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
ok so I was working on my car today, took out the ICM and got it tested, it tested fine.
Bought some plug wires called Duralast, heard from a friend that they were horrid, so I will return them tomorrow for perhaps another set BUT, I decided to check on some other things that may contribute to something. I took out my IAC, and cleaned some of the muck off it...then I adjusted it by swinging the pintel around...
Screwed the IAC back in, fired the car up (holy high idle) things started to calm down after about 3 minutes.
I went for a drive, the idle became alot better and alot smoother. The miss was barely noticeable...the car drove alot better too.
hmmmm....
Bought some plug wires called Duralast, heard from a friend that they were horrid, so I will return them tomorrow for perhaps another set BUT, I decided to check on some other things that may contribute to something. I took out my IAC, and cleaned some of the muck off it...then I adjusted it by swinging the pintel around...
Screwed the IAC back in, fired the car up (holy high idle) things started to calm down after about 3 minutes.
I went for a drive, the idle became alot better and alot smoother. The miss was barely noticeable...the car drove alot better too.
hmmmm....
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