ac not working
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 1
From: Central CA
Car: 89 Black GTA
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
ac not working
89 GTA 5.7 auto
Everything works perfect, but when I turn on the air the compressor kicks on and off(See vid below). When it kicks on and off the idle changes, almost bogging. If I drive the car with the air on it also get VERY HOT. If I let the car coast with the ac on it almost lunges with it... The car sat for a while as I was going to do some motor work. Now Im stuck. Thought Id check here before I took it to the mechanic.
HERE is the video of what it is doing. *4mb 16sec*
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Everything works perfect, but when I turn on the air the compressor kicks on and off(See vid below). When it kicks on and off the idle changes, almost bogging. If I drive the car with the air on it also get VERY HOT. If I let the car coast with the ac on it almost lunges with it... The car sat for a while as I was going to do some motor work. Now Im stuck. Thought Id check here before I took it to the mechanic.
HERE is the video of what it is doing. *4mb 16sec*
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
A compressor cycling on and off is frequently a sign of low refrigerant charge. The low pressure cutout switch stops the compressor if the accumulator pressure (low side pressure) drops below 25 PSIG, then allows it to restart when pressure reaches 45 PSIG.

You can test this theory by removing the electrical connector from the low pressure cutout switch and inserting a jumper wire in the connector. If the compressor runs the entire time the jumper wire is in place, the system has low refrigerant (or the switch is sensing low pressure). As little as one pound of refrigerant can restore normal system operation. If you have access to R410B, I'd recommend using that instead of converting to R134A, sicne the 134 will be a lot less efficient in cooling the interior - Even with the proper expansion control and conversion process.

You can test this theory by removing the electrical connector from the low pressure cutout switch and inserting a jumper wire in the connector. If the compressor runs the entire time the jumper wire is in place, the system has low refrigerant (or the switch is sensing low pressure). As little as one pound of refrigerant can restore normal system operation. If you have access to R410B, I'd recommend using that instead of converting to R134A, sicne the 134 will be a lot less efficient in cooling the interior - Even with the proper expansion control and conversion process.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 1
From: Central CA
Car: 89 Black GTA
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally Posted by Vader
A compressor cycling on and off is frequently a sign of low refrigerant charge. The low pressure cutout switch stops the compressor if the accumulator pressure (low side pressure) drops below 25 PSIG, then allows it to restart when pressure reaches 45 PSIG.
You can test this theory by removing the electrical connector from the low pressure cutout switch and inserting a jumper wire in the connector. If the compressor runs the entire time the jumper wire is in place, the system has low refrigerant (or the switch is sensing low pressure). As little as one pound of refrigerant can restore normal system operation. If you have access to R410B, I'd recommend using that instead of converting to R134A, sicne the 134 will be a lot less efficient in cooling the interior - Even with the proper expansion control and conversion process.
You can test this theory by removing the electrical connector from the low pressure cutout switch and inserting a jumper wire in the connector. If the compressor runs the entire time the jumper wire is in place, the system has low refrigerant (or the switch is sensing low pressure). As little as one pound of refrigerant can restore normal system operation. If you have access to R410B, I'd recommend using that instead of converting to R134A, sicne the 134 will be a lot less efficient in cooling the interior - Even with the proper expansion control and conversion process.
Thanks!
My apologies - I gave you an incorrect designation. I should have written "R414B" in place or "R410B."
R12 is no longer economically available. I think you'll have a little trouble finding a shop that still charges it, but there are some.
R414B is the preferred drop-in replacement for R12, and is completely compatible with R12, the lubricants used for R12, and the expansion rates and system pressures associated with R12. In other words, you can top-off an R12 system with R414B with no problems.
R414B is still available to those who are EPA licensed technicians. The last 25# cylinder I got about two months ago was still just under $300, or about $7.50/lb. Your system will have to be identified with labels to indicate it has been mixed, and it should have barrier type hoses to fully satisfy EPA requirements.
R12 is no longer economically available. I think you'll have a little trouble finding a shop that still charges it, but there are some.
R414B is the preferred drop-in replacement for R12, and is completely compatible with R12, the lubricants used for R12, and the expansion rates and system pressures associated with R12. In other words, you can top-off an R12 system with R414B with no problems.
R414B is still available to those who are EPA licensed technicians. The last 25# cylinder I got about two months ago was still just under $300, or about $7.50/lb. Your system will have to be identified with labels to indicate it has been mixed, and it should have barrier type hoses to fully satisfy EPA requirements.
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