I am going from a stock 1990 MAP L98 motor with centerbolt 083 heads and roller cam and putting on a set of Brodix IK180cc aluminum heads and a Crane roller cam.

I am making a checklist so that there are no surprises, let me know if I miss anything:

-Heads (derr)
-Cam (derr)
-Gaskets
-Fluids (coolant, oil, have filters)
-Bolts? Can I just use the stock ones?
-Double roller timing chain and gear set
-Have all tools
-Paint, sandpaper, etc, for detailing purposes
-Spark Plugs
-Perimeter style valve covers
-Pushrods

Missing anything? I think since the stock lifters were roller lifters, I am going to re-use them. That and the rockers are getting re-used. I figure if I want to go up to a roller setup, ill just pop off the valve covers and do them at a later date.

 

Looks like a starter list, things always seem to take a turn when working on an engine. Depending on what type of bolts you use, be sure to use new head bolts, and also since its a speed density you might need to do some computer management on that front. Make sure the hydraulic lifters dont collapse under too much lift, may be a hassle. Other than that looks good.

 

Yeah, I plan on getting a prom from PCMforless.com burnt as well. I'll look into a set of head bolts from ARP, I suppose. Was kind of hoping I wouldn't need to get a set, I'm cutting it close as is.

 

Bump. Okay to use the original head bolts, or should I get a set of ARP bolts?

 

If you have the origional head bolts, they are junk as soon as you pull them out. The reason for this is the head bolts stretch, and as soon as you take that tension back off them they are as good as dead weight. In any case, unless its a lawnmower, you should use new head bolts. IMO.

 

Thanks for the tip. Anyone recommend a set for a good price?

 

I reused my stock head bolts. They're fine, they're not torque to yield (TTY) style bolts. Do a search on TTY if you're curious for more info. I used mr gasket head bolt washers though, helps spread out the clamp load etc. Just clean up the threads with a wire wheel, I used my bench grinder, as I had a wire wheel on that. Use thread sealant on all head bolts.

You can get new ones, $50 for ARP, or a little cheaper for GM or mrgasket ones, but if you're going to upgrade you might as well go to ARP ones. Like $10 more then all other brands and quality is on a totally different playing field. Inspect brand new ARP bolts, side by side with other, normal bolts. They're flat out amazing.

 

SBC head bolts (actually, all SBC bolts) are not torque-to-yield, so what ResurrectingZ said does not apply. They are only torqued to the elastic region, so as soon as they are untorqued they return to their previous state. Now, the head bolts on my Series II 3800 in the Bonneville are a different story, as they are torque-to-yield.

 

yeah, I was originally going to comment that you dont need to buy new head bolts, but a lot of people will argue that and I didnt want to steal the thread.

-Blair

 

Thanks Sonix and five7kid, you guys always help me out, so I know you know what you are talking about. I'll clean them up and use them, since I am trying to stick to my budget here.

Will red Loctite thread locker be okay to use with these bolts? Or is that too strong/weak? Would you recommend Blue instead?

 

My bad for the misleading info, I have always been under the impression to toss head bolts and get new ones. Someone slap me...

I should have saved my old head bolts, oh well. $50 down the drain.

 

Eh, look on the bright side, at least they look pretty...if you can even get your head down there in the first place to notice them

 

mr gasket head bolt washers are like $5, if you can get them easy enough, i'd use 'em. I think they're worth it, while looking at the area that bolt clamps down on, on the heads, and how hard you're torquing them.

No loctite red/blue, thread sealant. "Permatex thread sealant with teflon" is what i've got.

 

You dont want to know how many times ive replaced head bolts thinking you had to. Then I learned, and it was glorious.