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Heater Control Valve

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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 07:17 PM
  #1  
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Heater Control Valve

I WANT TO ELIMINATE THE Heater Control Valve , THERE ARE 2 HOSES COMING OUT OF THE HEATER CORE, 1 ACROSS THE VALVE PAN INTO THE VALVE, THE OTHER I THINK IS GOING DOWN RUNNING ACROSS THE FRAME INTO THE RADIATOR, BUT IT T's OF & GOES INTO THE VALVE, THEN THERE IS A HOSE COMING OUT OF THE VALVE BACK INTO THE INTAKE BY THE DISTRIBUTOR, WHAT DO I NEED TO DO?
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 07:28 PM
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1991L98G92's Avatar
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From: Central California Coast SM
Car: 91 Z28 24th Anniversary
Engine: L98
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Posi 3.23
All the heater control valve does is, cuts off the flow of coolant to the heater core during MAX A/C, hence the vacuum hose to it. When the A/C is set to MAX, vacuum is sent to the valve and it closes. That's it. If it's leaking, then bypassing the valve is no big deal. If you use your A/C in MAX operation, you may want to replace it.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 09:00 PM
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yes its leaking & i want to delete the a/c to get rid of some clutter on that side of the engine,

im just not sure on what hoses go where , i want to make sure before i do it
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 12:27 PM
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1991L98G92's Avatar
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From: Central California Coast SM
Car: 91 Z28 24th Anniversary
Engine: L98
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Posi 3.23
What size engine? The 3 hose combination I can't see in my head. There's usually only 2, 1 in and 1 out. It could be a bypass hose while the valve is closed??? Does the heater valve have 2 or 3 connections? If only 2, then a small pipe could bypass it, alowing water flow through the heater core for heat.

I noticed the PM. I don't usually get them so I don't normally look for them.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 12:53 PM
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it is a 305 code e
1 hose out of the heater core ,looks to go down to the frame & back up to the rad.., but that hose Ts of & goes up to the heater valve,
the other hose out of the heater core goes along the valve pan to the heater valve, the there is a hose coming out of the heater valve into the intake by the distributor, the valve has 3 hoses going to it
thanks
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 01:20 PM
  #6  
Matthew91-Z28's Avatar
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Texas
Car: 1991 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 with Eaton posi
i'll tell you what though either way, you shouldnt drive that car if you have a leaky HCV. You probably know it already and dont mean to run you into the ground. When old, those HCV inlet/outlets get really brittle and can snap off.

It happened to me on the highway, I redlined my temp guage very quickly and then blew a head gasket.

I guess you could pull the heater core hoses off and mount a u-shaped hose for those ports, then use a longer hose from the block and hide the HCV valve. Or I guess you could just plug that water outlet from the block.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 01:38 PM
  #7  
1991L98G92's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 355
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From: Central California Coast SM
Car: 91 Z28 24th Anniversary
Engine: L98
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Posi 3.23
Now that you mention they crack, I do recall they're black plastic near the A/C compressor on the right side of the engine. And now I do recall there is one hose going down and two heading back along the valve cover area. Probably hard to find an adapter to replace it. Have you priced them? Probably the easiest fix.
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 03:24 PM
  #8  
jcrules78's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Maine
Car: 1988 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: TPI 5.7L (L98)
Transmission: Automatic w/OD (700R4)
Axle/Gears: Stock Axle 2.77 gears
I got the price, 23 bucks at a typical parts store, 40 retail at the dealership. I got one coming tomorrow, because mine snapped off where it connects to the intake. Stupid plastic crap.
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