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Breaking valve spring dampers!?

Old Jul 14, 2006 | 08:18 PM
  #1  
wwnf's Avatar
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From: Indiana, PA
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: SC'ed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11 12bolt
Breaking valve spring dampers!?

I'm in the middle of changing head gaskets and when I pulled the valve covers I noticed most or all of the spring dampers are broke or damaged. Some have totally destoyed the valve seal.

What do I need to do to remedy this problem? Upgrade to better springs? I'm a newbie when it comes to this stuff.

The engine has 906 vortec heads and I'm running #8 of boost. Looks like the previous owner didn't plan on the boost when he had the motor built. I've been wondering what the extra box of Lunati (73943) springs were for. =(
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 08:41 PM
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Damon's Avatar
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From: Philly, PA
You can't use 1.25" single springs with dampeners on stock Vortec heads. The base of the valve guide boss is too big in diameter and the dampener coil hangs up on it...... presto, broken dampeners. I'd recommend putting in a set of springs like the Comp Beehives (little pricey, but nice) or some other spring designed to run without a dampener inside (don't know if the Lunati springs you have are designed for that). Or you could take the heads off and have the guides machined down and the base of the guide boss machined to a smaller diameter.

One of the many annoying little things you have to deal with if you're using stock Vortecs. That's why so many people buy them with the guide work already done and a set of performance springs installed (Scoggin Dickey upgraded Vortecs or similar).
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 10:03 PM
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From: Indiana, PA
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: SC'ed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11 12bolt
Yep, I took some springs off and tried to replace with a new one and the damper definately hits the base of the guide boss. These Lunati spring dampers are flush at one end and come up short on the other end so if you flip the spring it goes down further but still hits the base before the spring is seated.

Now I'm wondering if the engine builder did this or the previous owner did this, oh well I guess it doesn't matter now. I now know what needs to be done.

I looked for the beehive springs you mentioned but not sure what I'm looking for. I'm taking it that I need a 1.25" OD spring?

I'll check around for a machine shop but I've only come up with blank stares in the past. Not many performance junkie's around here. It wouldn't be too bad since I'm already taking the heads off to replace the head gaskets (another previous owner setup problem).

Last edited by wwnf; Jul 14, 2006 at 10:12 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 10:06 PM
  #4  
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
You could switch to Manley 22410 springs (fit vortecs without machining) or remove the dampers from your Lunati springs and go with them. Be sure to check the retainer to seal clearance at full valve lift too.
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 10:55 PM
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From: Indiana, PA
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: SC'ed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11 12bolt
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
You could switch to Manley 22410 springs (fit vortecs without machining) or remove the dampers from your Lunati springs and go with them. Be sure to check the retainer to seal clearance at full valve lift too.

Is it ok to remove the damper? I guess, in a way, they are already being removed, =).

I'll give it a try and I'll check the retainer to seal clearance.

Thanks
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 09:12 PM
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From: Philly, PA
Really, you should use a spring that's designed to run without a dampener if you go that routs, BUT....... I've removed the dampeners and run without them before. In my case it was a set of Crane 99846 springs in a set of V6 (4.3L) Vortec heads. I goofed up and forgot to have the guide boos machined smaller when I had other work done to them. I was in a rush to get the motor finished (motor had to be installed the next weekend) so I yanked the dampener. It worked just fine.

I don't normally take shortcuts but it was a motor for my brother's Fiero and I told him that I had to take a little shortcut. Hey, I did all the work for free so he couldn't argue with me and didn't mind being my "guinea pig" for this little experiment. Like I said, all worked just in the end anyway so no harm, no foul. Engine ran like a champ, no valvetrain issues.

How do you think I knew instantly what your problem was? Been there, done that!

BTW- you can yank the dampeners out of your current springs. Just twist and pull the dampener coil simultaneously a couple times. Kinda like "unscrewing" them fron the spring coil. Out they come.
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 12:55 AM
  #7  
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From: Indiana, PA
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: SC'ed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11 12bolt
If I go with the Manley 22410 springs do I need to get new retainers (23652) also?

If I can get the dampers out I'll try the Lunati's.

Thanks again
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 08:24 PM
  #8  
91firebirdfosho's Avatar
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From: DALZELL illinois
Car: 1991 firebird formula
Engine: 383
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3:73 posi
I just got my 383 stroker motor running and i have a set of vortec heads from sdpc that were upgraded roller heads rated to about 570 lift and my cam was 548 max lift and when i went to check my rocker arms after driving it for the weekend i noticed all of the valve dampeners were broke so i called them on it and they said i can run the springs without the dampeners BUT THEY COULDNT TELL ME WHY THEY BROKE, i too had to replace some valve seals that were tore up. Whats the deal with the dampeners if they break?
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