Originally I was just going to drop the block off and have it cleaned and honed. I ended up taking the crank as well because I couldn't polish the journals, they were too badly scored. It took about 2 weeks, but I finally got everything back from the machine shop. Here's a couple quick shots of the block:






In any case, it honed up really nicely (from 4.040" to 4.0416"):





I ended up taking the crank as well for machining, but to my dismay, it was CRACKED

So for $125, I was able to exchange my bad crank for a completely polished, ready to go crank (.010"/010" under), which isn't a bad deal since mine was already machined once, and this one looks much better :


Since I had gone this far, I had them machine the heads and install better valve springs. (good to .550" lift), and some 1.6 ratio roller tip rockers:




They were also willing to deal. Price matched everything from summit, so it saved me a trip out there by ordering through him. Got my new cam as well, the COMP XFI 268, which is like the XE series, but with a wider LSA:



I had the block align-bored as well. So it SHOULD be good THIS time around.

oh, and of course, nothing in life is free:

Yikes! Pretty steep, but that included the cam kit, all machine work for the block and heads, all bearings, seals, gaskets, etc. So, now on to the grunt work of reassembling everything.

Which, of course, brings me to my next question:

All my service manuals are for the one piece rear main seal blocks with the roller cams. THIS block is a 4 bolt main flat tappet design, SO, are there major differences in the torque for the main and rod bolts? If so, what are they? Thanks to anyone who can answer that!

 

Nice!

 

countersunk cylinder head bolt holes.. you do that? I don't have that, weird...

mains and rod bolts should be to spec based on the bolt. Are you using ARP's? Then use their spec.
If stock, should be the same spec, something like 65ft lbs, 45lbs for the outer bolt holes on the mains, rods would be the same as your manual.

 

Thanks sonix. I wasn't sure if there would be much of a difference. As far as the countersunk bosses, they were like that when I got the engine. I haven't had any problems with them *knocks on wood*.

I did some research in to the block's history. It was cast in 1980, and it was either a warranty engine, or a crate motor. I don't know if it's too visible, but it has provisions for the oil dipstick on either side. The block was "messy" when it went to the machine shop. The number 2 and 3 cam bearings had little to zero press on them. In fact, the number 2 bearing could be popped in and out by hand. So, the shop took a number 1 bearing and machined it to the proper size to fit. Couple other little hang ups as well with the mexican blocks, like the align bore, etc. I'm just glad it's all straightened out now

 

hmm, that raises my brow, why would someone countersink the cylinder head bolt holes in the block? I'm at a stage where it would be very easy for me to do, but I can't think of a use for it... It's not needed as relief for the fillet under the bolt head, as no bolt head goes right above that...

anyone do that, and have a reason for it?

also, you measured you bores, after honing? you do that yourself?

 

It's not a countersink, just a chamfer. Head bolt tension pulls the metal up around the bolt hole.

If you look closely, your bolt holes are probably already chamfered, especially if you've had the block decked. It's just not normally done with so much gusto as it was on Quick_Trans_Am's block.

 

a countersink is a chamfer for a hole, you think i'm talking about a counterbore?

hmm, my block was decked, but I was pretty sure I didn't see those... perhaps *Much* smaller then that, those are huge!
i'll take a look at it, and put them on if I don't see it, why not eh...

 

No, I just mean it's not a counersink in the popular definition, which would be a recess for a fastener.

Yes those ones are enormous. There's really no need to do them that deep, usually it's only done to about the depth of the first thread or so.

 

I need to check on these threads more often haha. The machine shop measured it for me after it was honed. I didn't. For as much as I paid, it got me a handy li'l chart with specs on that engine .

As far as the bolt chamfer, I too haven't seen any that are done that deeply. My factory L98 block isn't like that. A quick google image search for chevy blocks does yield a couple pictures of other blocks with deep chamfering. I'm still not sure which purpose it serves.