New push rods, now motor misses at 4500-5200rpms
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From: shawnee, ks
Car: 87 Firebird
Engine: 5.3 76mm
Transmission: Rossler TH400, PTC converter
Axle/Gears: Strange 12bolt, 3.08s
New push rods, now motor misses at 4500-5200rpms
Its the set up in the sig. I swaped out from OEM push rods to Comp Cams high energy ones, and now I have a miss up top, and it starts poping out the exhaust. If I push it a bit farther, it stops but seems iratic.
There are some large single coil springs on the heads when I got them, not sure on the specs. New stock SA rockers. The cams specs are 224/234, .465/.485, hydralic flat tappet.
Valve lash was set with the engine hot and running, 0 lash + 1/2 turn.
I also put in a new lifter on the #3 exhuast, to try and fix a tick thats coming from that valve. Found out that the keepers were warn, causing the retainer to move a bit. New keepers quitened it down, until my first pull up to 5800, when I found out it was stumbling, and now its as loud as it was before. Any ideas on how to fix this tick? I can do the screw driver trick to listen to the rocker studs, and on that one, theres a loud tank tank tank tank as the rocker moves, and it is only on that valve. The spring isnt binding, I can easily stick a large flat blade screw driver inbetween the coils when its compressed. The retainer showed no signs of hitting the valve guide, new lifter, new push rods, new keepers, and a new rocker, ball, nut. Onlything that hasnt been changed out on that valve is the retainer and the spring.
There are some large single coil springs on the heads when I got them, not sure on the specs. New stock SA rockers. The cams specs are 224/234, .465/.485, hydralic flat tappet.
Valve lash was set with the engine hot and running, 0 lash + 1/2 turn.
I also put in a new lifter on the #3 exhuast, to try and fix a tick thats coming from that valve. Found out that the keepers were warn, causing the retainer to move a bit. New keepers quitened it down, until my first pull up to 5800, when I found out it was stumbling, and now its as loud as it was before. Any ideas on how to fix this tick? I can do the screw driver trick to listen to the rocker studs, and on that one, theres a loud tank tank tank tank as the rocker moves, and it is only on that valve. The spring isnt binding, I can easily stick a large flat blade screw driver inbetween the coils when its compressed. The retainer showed no signs of hitting the valve guide, new lifter, new push rods, new keepers, and a new rocker, ball, nut. Onlything that hasnt been changed out on that valve is the retainer and the spring.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
the comp pushrods are the same length right? Did you check for a witness mark on the valve tip?
you put a new lifter on one cylinder? hmm, when the motor is running does it seem like that rocker isn't moving as much as the rest? I didn't think you can simply replace a lifter like that and just keep going...
If the keeper was worn, i'd think the retainer was bad on that cylinder as well. Usually i'd do 'em all at once, but you might just trying putting on one new retainer to see if it helps.
you put a new lifter on one cylinder? hmm, when the motor is running does it seem like that rocker isn't moving as much as the rest? I didn't think you can simply replace a lifter like that and just keep going...
If the keeper was worn, i'd think the retainer was bad on that cylinder as well. Usually i'd do 'em all at once, but you might just trying putting on one new retainer to see if it helps.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 713
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From: shawnee, ks
Car: 87 Firebird
Engine: 5.3 76mm
Transmission: Rossler TH400, PTC converter
Axle/Gears: Strange 12bolt, 3.08s
the comp pushrods are the same length right? Did you check for a witness mark on the valve tip?
you put a new lifter on one cylinder? hmm, when the motor is running does it seem like that rocker isn't moving as much as the rest? I didn't think you can simply replace a lifter like that and just keep going...
If the keeper was worn, i'd think the retainer was bad on that cylinder as well. Usually i'd do 'em all at once, but you might just trying putting on one new retainer to see if it helps.
you put a new lifter on one cylinder? hmm, when the motor is running does it seem like that rocker isn't moving as much as the rest? I didn't think you can simply replace a lifter like that and just keep going...
If the keeper was worn, i'd think the retainer was bad on that cylinder as well. Usually i'd do 'em all at once, but you might just trying putting on one new retainer to see if it helps.
The push rods are the exact same size.
I searched about changing out the lifter, and everyone on here said its fine, just use break in lube on the bottom, and do the same break in as you would with a whole new cam. Visually the valve is moving the same distance as the otheres, to the point that I wouldnt beable to tell if the cam was dieing. If so no biggie, its a $70 cam/lifter set, and a $60 bottom end.
Im going to rerun all of the rockers again tonight. Maybe when I double checked them all, I still mangaged to not get one right, as far as the hesitation goes.
I rolled into the throttle yesterday a bit in first, and once I rolled far enough into it for the secondaries to start opening the tires started spinning, it pulled very well up to 6k, hit second, and then let off. Didn't miss that time, makes me wonder if it is ignition or fuel related.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: shawnee, ks
Car: 87 Firebird
Engine: 5.3 76mm
Transmission: Rossler TH400, PTC converter
Axle/Gears: Strange 12bolt, 3.08s
Any other Ideas? I dont get to work on the car until tomorrow.
Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
My idea is, the push rods don't have anything to do with the issue at hand.
Either you disturbed something else while changing them, or something broke at about the same time.
I'd drop the whole push rod blame thing, and instead, concentrate on open-mindedly investigating what's actually wrong with the car.
Either you disturbed something else while changing them, or something broke at about the same time.
I'd drop the whole push rod blame thing, and instead, concentrate on open-mindedly investigating what's actually wrong with the car.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 713
Likes: 1
From: shawnee, ks
Car: 87 Firebird
Engine: 5.3 76mm
Transmission: Rossler TH400, PTC converter
Axle/Gears: Strange 12bolt, 3.08s
My idea is, the push rods don't have anything to do with the issue at hand.
Either you disturbed something else while changing them, or something broke at about the same time.
I'd drop the whole push rod blame thing, and instead, concentrate on open-mindedly investigating what's actually wrong with the car.
Either you disturbed something else while changing them, or something broke at about the same time.
I'd drop the whole push rod blame thing, and instead, concentrate on open-mindedly investigating what's actually wrong with the car.
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