Black aluminum intake?
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: South Louisiana
Car: 92 RS
Engine: Built 355
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73's w/ stock axles
Black aluminum intake?
I'm building a sleeper car and wany everything under the hood to look stock. I bought a weiand stealth aluminum intake and want to paint it black so it will look stock at first glance.
This shouldn't cause any adverse conditions should it? I don't think that it would, but hey, I'm no expert. Thats why I'm here.
This shouldn't cause any adverse conditions should it? I don't think that it would, but hey, I'm no expert. Thats why I'm here.
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
I did that with my RPM Air Gap for exactly the same reason. Its great! High rise intakes also look really badass when they match the rest of the motor (black, orange, whatever).
I say go for it... my Air Gap looks so much cooler painted black like the rest of the motor (except for bead blasted aluminum valve covers) than it did when it was bare aluminum. It does give it a sleeper look too, especially since my air cleaner hangs low enough to hide most of my Holley carb. And it is difficult to make a motor with an air gap look "stock" but black paint did it
I say go for it... my Air Gap looks so much cooler painted black like the rest of the motor (except for bead blasted aluminum valve covers) than it did when it was bare aluminum. It does give it a sleeper look too, especially since my air cleaner hangs low enough to hide most of my Holley carb. And it is difficult to make a motor with an air gap look "stock" but black paint did it
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Clean it really well first. Brake kleen, acetone, whatever. Don't use wipes, they'll leave dust behind.
paint, and bake it if you can. That way it'll last. Perhaps clearcoat as well.
The tech article on the main page about souping up a 305, by Daniel Burk I think, showed how he painted his intake gold. Might have some info there.
paint, and bake it if you can. That way it'll last. Perhaps clearcoat as well.
The tech article on the main page about souping up a 305, by Daniel Burk I think, showed how he painted his intake gold. Might have some info there.
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Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 311
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From: South Louisiana
Car: 92 RS
Engine: Built 355
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73's w/ stock axles
Yeah, I was going to lightly sandblast it at work and then just rattle can it with black and a clear coat. If it flakes.....all the better. It'll look all the more like the crappy original thats on there now. I'm going to try to convince prople that its the crappy little 305 that came in the car with a "little" cam work and an exhaust on it.
I was actually looking for some original V6 badges to go along with my RS badges because some of the idiots around here are just dumb enough to believe it if I don't pop the hood before I unleash the beast on their crappy little r!cer.
I was actually looking for some original V6 badges to go along with my RS badges because some of the idiots around here are just dumb enough to believe it if I don't pop the hood before I unleash the beast on their crappy little r!cer.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Ottawa, ONT
Car: 1987 Firebird
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
dont go crazy with the paint, and make sure its high heat paint. The reason is, aluminum is awesome for heat flow and stays relatively cool, painting your engine will "insulate" so the less paint is on there the better. But for sure i know what you are going for. Im doing the same thing with my 85 berlinetta, im gonna paint it grandpa grey with mudguards and 14 inch tires
but under the hood its a corvette L-82 and overdrive trans to boot. Berlinetta badges and all. Howver, my take on it is, once you pop the hood you cant hide much, so i do have a bit of chrome going on. Good luck.
but under the hood its a corvette L-82 and overdrive trans to boot. Berlinetta badges and all. Howver, my take on it is, once you pop the hood you cant hide much, so i do have a bit of chrome going on. Good luck. Trending Topics
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
I should have cleaned it up a little bit first, but its too cold outside
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
One more... really nasty engine compartment! 
Can see my pretty, custom made fuel line though!

Can see my pretty, custom made fuel line though!
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From: Cypress, California
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 369 TPI
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Nine Bolt
Just FYI. There is a thermal coating that is black and when sprayed on the intake manifold will help disapate heat. The idea is to help keep the air cool at it enters the engine. I have thought about it but I wan't to keep my intake the aluminum color.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Na, if you really want to do it right, dont waste your time with paint or anodizing. Those chip, scratch, discolor, and lose their shine. Get it powdercoated. Its cheap and an absolutely bullet proof. Looks great too!
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From: JSS Soto, Tallil IRAQ
Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 414ci Twin Turbo
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"
Hrrm, i have heard the exact opposite. I heard it traps heat in, but its not like it would matter anyways. Its not like its going to harm anything on a watercooled engine.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Arab, Alabama
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 4BBL
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Luke! You are my son. Exactly the same thing that I'm going to do when I get my RPM non-air-gap manifold. Don't believe the "clean & gleam team". Black disipates heat the best.
When you get done is should look like this:
And sound like THIS.
When you get done is should look like this:
And sound like THIS.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Ottawa, ONT
Car: 1987 Firebird
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
IROC-YOU, you are right, powder coating IS an insulator (just researched it) . Bad knowledge on my part. You are also correct that it wouldnt damage anything on a watercooled engine, however, it kind of defeats the purpose of an air-gap/aluminum intake. The only performance gain you are getting if you insulate it, is light weight.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
IROC-YOU, you are right, powder coating IS an insulator (just researched it) . Bad knowledge on my part. You are also correct that it wouldnt damage anything on a watercooled engine, however, it kind of defeats the purpose of an air-gap/aluminum intake. The only performance gain you are getting if you insulate it, is light weight.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
yea, but an air gap intake is meant to get nice cooling air from the engine bay (coming from the fan) to go over the intake and cool it down, so it cools it down.
The air convection from the fan is trying to keep it cooler, while the conducted heat coming up from the engine block is trying to warm it up.
With headers, yea, you want to hold the heat in.
Intake manifold, it's heated, but you want to cool it.
That's right, I just learned that recently too. Stay in school kids
You wear black on a hot day, and get hot right? It's because black, transmits heat through it faster, where white acts more like a thermal barrier. This is mostly as far as heat radiation. The paint/coating will still act like a blanket, to prevent convection heat transfer (to a degree). In the thickness of paint i'd think it's minimal, powder coating is thicker though I think. I wonder which one has more of an effect in this application, the radiated heat, or convection eh? hmmm.
Black anodizing (it's an aluminum manifold afterall) would be perfect, in my opinion. Anodizing can't flake off, or dissolve in gasoline, or get scratched off.
The air convection from the fan is trying to keep it cooler, while the conducted heat coming up from the engine block is trying to warm it up.
With headers, yea, you want to hold the heat in.
Intake manifold, it's heated, but you want to cool it.
Black disipates heat the best
You wear black on a hot day, and get hot right? It's because black, transmits heat through it faster, where white acts more like a thermal barrier. This is mostly as far as heat radiation. The paint/coating will still act like a blanket, to prevent convection heat transfer (to a degree). In the thickness of paint i'd think it's minimal, powder coating is thicker though I think. I wonder which one has more of an effect in this application, the radiated heat, or convection eh? hmmm.Black anodizing (it's an aluminum manifold afterall) would be perfect, in my opinion. Anodizing can't flake off, or dissolve in gasoline, or get scratched off.
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From: Ottawa, ONT
Car: 1987 Firebird
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
Thats right Adam, Sonix beat me to it, your mixing up convection with conducted heat. The intake manifold is attached to the heads, which heats up, and in turn will heat up the manifold. so yes you are keeping the "hot air" outside, if any, from heating up the "cool air" inside the plenum, BUT air changes temp quicker than alloy or aluminum. so insulating it would keep it from dissapating heat(conduction) and heat up the cold air coming in(convection), faster than the cold air can cool down the aluminum.
You are correct in what you said mind you, but the conducted heat would overthrow the insulated effects of the convection "cool".
Like sonix mentioned, the air gap functions on the theory (and probably proven fact) that the air inside the engine compartment (although hot air at times), is still cooler than the alloy components of the engine itself, so heat transfer can occur between the block and the air through convection to keep it cool.
You are correct in what you said mind you, but the conducted heat would overthrow the insulated effects of the convection "cool".
Like sonix mentioned, the air gap functions on the theory (and probably proven fact) that the air inside the engine compartment (although hot air at times), is still cooler than the alloy components of the engine itself, so heat transfer can occur between the block and the air through convection to keep it cool.
Last edited by online170; Oct 18, 2006 at 12:52 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 311
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From: South Louisiana
Car: 92 RS
Engine: Built 355
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73's w/ stock axles
so.....a coat or two of spraypaint shouldn.t hurt right? I really don't care if it flakes a little.
Where would one look to get one of these things anodized? That idea also sounds cool, but is it expensive?
Thanks for all the replies guys!.... And for the pics adam and supervisor.
Where would one look to get one of these things anodized? That idea also sounds cool, but is it expensive?
Thanks for all the replies guys!.... And for the pics adam and supervisor.
Last edited by systalis; Oct 18, 2006 at 07:52 PM.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Try in the phonebook under industrial coatings or something. It's not really common actually.
There is a few places here in calgary that do it I think.
Phone around and price it out, it'd sure be unique!
Or, just clean it up really well, and paint it, and bake it on.
There is a few places here in calgary that do it I think.
Phone around and price it out, it'd sure be unique!
Or, just clean it up really well, and paint it, and bake it on.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 1
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
I used black engine paint on mine, and it worked just fine. I would just go that route. All the coatings and treatments are nice and good, but if its only for looks, use engine enamel. It works just fine.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 311
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From: South Louisiana
Car: 92 RS
Engine: Built 355
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73's w/ stock axles
getting it anodized sounds cool, but no use spending a whole bunch of dough trying to get the engine to look stock when a can of engine paint will do.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I just contacted a local anodizing shop, who told me ~$130 to anodize my intake. I paid about $210 for it. I don't think that's worth it, so i'd really only do it if I did it myself.
Just an FYI.
Just an FYI.
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