so this may be a dumb question but do i have to bring my engine to tdc to replace my timing chain it looks like i may not need to and im not running anything fancy just tired of hearing it and figure might as well replace it before it jumps a tooth and screws me, thx

 

The engine does not have to be at TDC in order to replace the chain. However there are marks on the two gears that you should align before removing the chain/gear just to help keep you from re-installing the cam gear off one tooth.

 

aligning them is easy? i see the cam gear has an extra hole so you dont put it on wrong, im not doing it right now just ordered my new timing chain and getting info so i dont have to sit here and wait for help while my cars torn apart:P

 

To align them you must either turn the engine over by hand, (which means taking all the spark plugs out in order to eliminate cylinder compression resistance) and rotate the crank pully. Or "bump" the engine ignition until they align. You'll have to clean off the face of the gears in order to see the alignment "dots". Don't rotate the engine while the chain is off or you'll loose your timing reference.

It isn't a requirement to align the dots, but you may screw up and be off by one tooth when you re-install the cam gear if your'e not careful. I recommend taking a photo before, during, and after the change.

 

i was under the impression before that i had to remove to starter to drop the pan in the front enough to remove the timing chain cover, also will i need a puller to take the balancer off and what the thing called i have to buy after i remove it and reinstall it so that it doesnt leak oil, btw thx for yer help

 

You do not have to take the starter off. I remove the first three bolts on each side of the oil pan (2 7/16's and 4 3/8's bolts). Take the timing chain cover off, when you do this it will leave some space to replace the cover when the chain is installed.

 

before i do this let me make sure i got this right, get everything apart, clean the gears, bump the motor till the cam gear is at 6 oclock and crank is at 12, unbolt cam gear remove crank gear, replace crank gear, put chain on it put chain over cam gear bolt back up and thats it right? and there shouldnt be any problem with me using any assembly lube to put the crank gear back on right? also lock tite the cam gear bolts?

 

This is the alignment you'll what you want after teh chain and sprockets are installed:



Loosen all the oil pan bolts except the rear saddle bolts. Remove the two front 5/16-18 bolts at the saddle and at least three of the 1/4-20 bolts along each oil pan rail to allow the pan to drop at least a half-inch. This will allow the lower seal on the timing cover to engage and seal properly.

You'll need a puller to remove the harmonic balancer, a jaw-type puller to remove the crankshaft timing sprocket, and a 5" piece of 7/16-20 threaded rod and two 7/16-20 nuts to install the balancer when you're finished.

You'll need LocTite 222 or equivalent to install the cam timing sprocket bolts and torque them to 20 ft/lb. You'll need something to safely drive the crankshaft timing sprocket onto the snout of the crank.

You'll need water pump gaskets, new coolant, new oil and a filter, and sensor-safe gasket sealant (like Permatex 6C) to successfully seal the lower timing cover seal and to reseal the lowered section of the oil pan. You'll need a dab of clean grease to prelubricxate the new timing cover crankshaft seal so it doesn't suffer damage when the harmonic balancer is installed. All the gaskets and seals should be included in a timing chain gasket set, available at many parts stores.

You'll need to torque the harmonic balancer center bolt to 65 ft/lb after it is installed.

 

does all this come with a kit that i can rent at a parts store or do i have to hunt around for these, ive done a harmonic balancer before but never on this car they were all just held in by one large bolt in the middle

 

The balancer is held on by one 7/16-20 bolt through the center, just like 95% of everything else you'll see. The threaded rod and nuts (collectively) are sometimes referred to as a "Balancer Installer Tool" but cost about 20 times as much when they come with that title. When you get them at your local hardware store the threaded rod will be about $4 for a 36" length (enough to make at least six tools) and the nuts will be about 7¢ each. You can buy extra nuts, cut all the rod, and sell them on ebaY as the aforementioned "Balancer Installer Tool" for $14.99 each plus shipping and get all your money back.

 

alright got it all apart and now almost all back together, only thing im unsure of is do i put the repair sleeve on the end of the balance or on the end of the crank.. searched for a while so i guess im the only dumbass that doesnt know :P thanks guys

 

Repair sleeve? Is the crank snout seal area damaged?

 

nah everyone told me to get one i checked it and decided i didnt need it, still cant get belt on and dont know why

 

Belt? Do you mean "chain?"