When you start you car, do you give it a little gas?
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 512
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From: PA
Car: '92 Camaro Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Built 700R4
Axle/Gears: Unknown 9 Bolt Posi, 3.73s
When you start you car, do you give it a little gas?
I asked my dad, he says he does...but I want to know if this is good/helps the car start?
I notice my Z28 is getting harder to start, will this help?
-Thanks
I notice my Z28 is getting harder to start, will this help?
-Thanks
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iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,622
Likes: 5
From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
carb yes, race car....a LOT, a tpi motor....never. i usually open my throttle almost all the way on primaries to turn my motor over to get it to fire easier then let go of the pedal as soon as it fires up.
No. You're actually going to cause problems when you do that. The reason is twofold:
You have a TPS (throttle position sensor) and an IAC valve (idle air control). Later vehicles with non-adjustable TPS are calibrated when you turn the vehicle on. The value read when you first turn it on is considered throttle closed. There are several other factors at work behind the scenes here but I'm trying to keep it simple.
When you start the car, the IAC valve adjusts to what the car needs to start. If you have to open the throttle any more than what the IAC valve can compensate for there are problems elsewhere that should be addressed. The ECM knows the car is in cranking mode and adds the appropriate amount of fuel for starting. The two things together take the place of the "pumping the pedal" that is associated with carbureted vehicles.
Also, on a side-note, putting the pedal all the way to the floor (>95% TPS) while cranking puts the ECM into "flood clear mode". That's where it cuts the fuel added while cranking to help clear a flooded motor.
If your car is getting hard to start these days and depressing the pedal seems to help it start, you may have clogged IAC passages. If the passages are clogged the IAC has to open further to compensate and when it gets to the limit of the pintle it can't open any further so the throttle blades have to open so the engine can get the air it needs. (breather from that run-on sentence)
The passages get clogged because exhaust gas is injected into the intake by the emissions system and that nasty stuff tends to accumulate.
So... Take the boot off of the throttle body, and also remove the IAC valve from the throttle body. You'll need a quite large wrench for the valve. Use some throttle body cleaner and a pipe cleaner or bore brush and clean the passages as best as you can. Clean the pintle on the valve, as well as it's shaft. You can remove the pintle from the motor by wiggling it back and forth while pulling it out. Lubricate the shaft of the pintle with some grease before putting it back together. Be sure to push it all the way back into the motor before screwing it into the throttle body.
Now you have to set the "minimum idle air" setting. That's the screw on the throttle body that the throttle cable bellcrank or cam butts into. Once everything it back together, put the vehicle into diagnostic mode (like you're pulling the codes) and turn the key on. Wait 30 seconds (for the IAC to close fully, you may hear it), then unplug the connector (this is so it STAYS closed while you're adjusting). Disconnect the timing connector (the tan wire with the connector by the blower motor), then start the engine and let it warm up fully and go into closed-loop. The CHECK ENGINE LIGHT will be flashing fast while it's in open loop and change to slow flashing when it's in closed loop (or it might be vice-versa, I forget since I use a scan-tool and not the jumper method). Anyway, once the light has changed it's blinking style indicating it's in closed loop, remove the jumper. If you have trouble starting the car before you get to this point you might have to screw in the min. air a few turns until it's open enough for the car to run. If your car is auto MAKE SURE THE PARKING BRAKE IS ON AND THE WHEELS CHOCKED, and for additional safety have a helper inside the car holding the foot brake, because you have to make this adjustment with the car in drive. Adjust the screw until your idle is 550 rpm, then shut the car off. If you're doing a total tune-up which I would advise at this point if you want a solid-running car, set the timing and the TPS voltage if your TPS is adjustable. Otherwise, just reconnect the IAC motor and the set timing connector.
Assuming the car is in top shape elsewhere, you should have a runnin summabich.
You have a TPS (throttle position sensor) and an IAC valve (idle air control). Later vehicles with non-adjustable TPS are calibrated when you turn the vehicle on. The value read when you first turn it on is considered throttle closed. There are several other factors at work behind the scenes here but I'm trying to keep it simple.
When you start the car, the IAC valve adjusts to what the car needs to start. If you have to open the throttle any more than what the IAC valve can compensate for there are problems elsewhere that should be addressed. The ECM knows the car is in cranking mode and adds the appropriate amount of fuel for starting. The two things together take the place of the "pumping the pedal" that is associated with carbureted vehicles.
Also, on a side-note, putting the pedal all the way to the floor (>95% TPS) while cranking puts the ECM into "flood clear mode". That's where it cuts the fuel added while cranking to help clear a flooded motor.
If your car is getting hard to start these days and depressing the pedal seems to help it start, you may have clogged IAC passages. If the passages are clogged the IAC has to open further to compensate and when it gets to the limit of the pintle it can't open any further so the throttle blades have to open so the engine can get the air it needs. (breather from that run-on sentence)
The passages get clogged because exhaust gas is injected into the intake by the emissions system and that nasty stuff tends to accumulate.
So... Take the boot off of the throttle body, and also remove the IAC valve from the throttle body. You'll need a quite large wrench for the valve. Use some throttle body cleaner and a pipe cleaner or bore brush and clean the passages as best as you can. Clean the pintle on the valve, as well as it's shaft. You can remove the pintle from the motor by wiggling it back and forth while pulling it out. Lubricate the shaft of the pintle with some grease before putting it back together. Be sure to push it all the way back into the motor before screwing it into the throttle body.
Now you have to set the "minimum idle air" setting. That's the screw on the throttle body that the throttle cable bellcrank or cam butts into. Once everything it back together, put the vehicle into diagnostic mode (like you're pulling the codes) and turn the key on. Wait 30 seconds (for the IAC to close fully, you may hear it), then unplug the connector (this is so it STAYS closed while you're adjusting). Disconnect the timing connector (the tan wire with the connector by the blower motor), then start the engine and let it warm up fully and go into closed-loop. The CHECK ENGINE LIGHT will be flashing fast while it's in open loop and change to slow flashing when it's in closed loop (or it might be vice-versa, I forget since I use a scan-tool and not the jumper method). Anyway, once the light has changed it's blinking style indicating it's in closed loop, remove the jumper. If you have trouble starting the car before you get to this point you might have to screw in the min. air a few turns until it's open enough for the car to run. If your car is auto MAKE SURE THE PARKING BRAKE IS ON AND THE WHEELS CHOCKED, and for additional safety have a helper inside the car holding the foot brake, because you have to make this adjustment with the car in drive. Adjust the screw until your idle is 550 rpm, then shut the car off. If you're doing a total tune-up which I would advise at this point if you want a solid-running car, set the timing and the TPS voltage if your TPS is adjustable. Otherwise, just reconnect the IAC motor and the set timing connector.
Assuming the car is in top shape elsewhere, you should have a runnin summabich.
Last edited by Jza; Nov 3, 2006 at 07:27 PM. Reason: couple typos corrected
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,946
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Never. I find that if I do, it messes it up and makes the motor even harder to start and when it does it runs like crap for a few seconds. I usually start it up before I even get in the car, always starts best like this.
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