413 SBC, High rise intake with holley 750. I just got done installing Mallory's Hyfire 6 on my stock HEI Dist. After installing the car sounds fine at idle but when brought up to 3,ooo+ rpms it pops repeativly. I only took of the dist. cap and when i put it back it went back in the same place. I tried advance and retarding the hell outta it but no luck... Maybe its running to lean now? I don't know please help.

 

Sorry man wrong post.

 

Sounds like your running it really lean... I'd put money on sucking the fuel bowls dry. Whats your fuel pressure? What fuel pump? What size fuel lines? What kind of RPMs are we talking about here? "high rpm" to some people is "off idle" to others lol.

 

Holley 135 gal/hour, Holley Regulator, 3/8 fuel lines... i'll check fuel pressure tommrrow. Why would it run so lean all of a sudden though? High RPM is above 2500 RPM to 6000. I haven't drove it yet I just idle it up till it starts poping which is around 2500 RPMs

 

Popping through the intake?
Is it a roller cam or flat tappet?
I had one that popped through the intake cause one of the valves wasn't closing.
Could be a plug wire issue too.
Closing the choke a little bit will richen it up for testing purposes then you can eliminate that if nothing is changed with that test.
Try a compression test and triple check your plug wires.

 

Flat tappet, its wierd , I will check them but i didn't remove any wires during the install of the hyfire. I hear the poping through the exhaust like a crazy miss that repeats itself.

 

It was running alright til you installed the HyFire??

 

Yep, i installed it just for better spark... ( of course ) but it never had this problem... In the install of the hyfire i had remove the ignition module and hard wire wires from the box to the magnetic pick up wires in the dist. ( As per instructions)

 

It sounds like it would be a PITA to remove the HyFire to see if it still runs as good without it as it did originally.
Maybe the added spark voltage is causing your plug wires to cross from one wire to another.
If you run the engine in the dark you can see if there's any arcing taking place between plug wires. There can be arcing happening under the dist cap too, but you wouldn't be able to see that.

 

are your plug wires in the right order??

 

Yeah there in the right order , driver side 1357 passenger 2468
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They are MSD super conductor 8.5 wires and all of them and seperated rather well but i will check that out later, can't start the thing at night neighbors will come out with guns ( 3 inch pipes with glass packs out the side

 

Should i try to richin' it up with the air/fuel screws on the side of the bowls? And see what happens? I wouldn't think this box would cause my already running lil' rich motor to running that freackin' lean... but i don't know, plus i don't have a timing tab so i time it by ear, I have March Electric water pump pulley's kit and i can't the marks because its in the way... But i turned the cap all over the place nice and slow to see if it would get anybetter but nothing worth noting.

 

The idle mixture adjusment wouldn't have any effect at the rpm you're talking about. Just give it about 1/4 choke to see what effect that has.
To me it sounds like it could be a valvetrain problem, except that it doesn't make sense that the problem happened right after you worked on the ignition.
I'm just sayin that cause I had an engine that popped at mid/high rpm and it ended up that a cam lobe was worn out.

So does it have a very regular sound that seems to come from the same cyl each time? And does it pop each time that cyl fires consistently?
Are you sure you didn't just blow a header gasket?

 

This might sound stupid, but I had almost the exact same 'popping' situation... After replacing a bunch of things that didn't solve anything, I found that a shop which had done some other work on my car had switched two of the spark plug wires on my Dist. Cap... I easily corrected the wires.. and poof.. problem completely solved.. I'm sure you already checked that, though...

 

I checked all my wires and there fine took off my valve cover and checked over the rockers and pushrods to see if anything was lose and they looked fine. But, when i took out my spark plugs they looked a little light grey on the tips, and the car had never ran for longer then 5 min. so i think it might be to lean now???

 

I just installed a Hyfire 6A last Saturday. Now I have the exact same problem. As soon as I get on it, it pops too. Sounds like it is missing. Post back if you find out what is causing yours to pop. I'll try adding more fuel (rich) through the edelbrock and see what it does.

 

Yeah its the weirdest thing... I was thinking of doing the same but with my secondaires... check your plugs and see if they look like they have been running lean... I have a holley 4160 and i belive i cant adjust the jets unless i get a 4150 metering block conversion...I also emailed mallory tech service and summit so as soon an i found out something i let you know

 

Are you running a vacumm advance distributer? When I went with the MSD 6A box in my car, I developed a popping with higher rpms and cruising. Turned out that the vacumm advance was pulling too much timing into it, I disconnected the vacumm advance and rechecked total timing and to see where the mechanical aadvance came in and problem was solved. This may or may not be your problem, but it is one more thing to check. My timing comes in at about 2200 rpm with a total of 34 degrees of timing. No knock or detonation so far in 3 years.. Hope this helps.. Good luck..

 

I am ill give it a try... Is it going to hurt anything plugin' the lines?

 

No, unplug the vacumm line from the distributer and plug it at the carb where it plugs in at and check your intial timing to see what you are at and then, if you have access to a dial back type timing light that you can check total timing as you increase rpm's, you will get what your total is at a specific rpm, say 2000rpm. On my car, the total was coming in way to quick and too much with the vacumm advance hooked up to the carb. The distributer will have mechanical advance in it as the rpm's come up and that is why a dial back timing light will be helpful. Again, hope this helps you in your search..

 

Wahhh whoo, I figered it out, i finally got a timing pointer to fit properly and i checked my intial timing... it was 22 degrees , And in the rear my heater hose does a S bend to one of the back ports on the manifold and it was restricting me for going anyfurther. So im gonna rerun the line and kick some Ford A**