I have a question about iac wiring.

Someone changed the plug at one time and the wires go like this


-------fromcar-----------------to new plug--------
green with white connected to green with black.
green with black connected to green with white.

blue with black connected to blue with white.
blue with white connected to blue with black.
-------------------------------------------------------

I would think they should be black with black white with white..Does it make a difference?Or could it be that the plug is from a different car.

if someone has a picture of there iac wire harness connected that would prolly help. Who knows what they got that plug off of


i would like to see in relation to the clip what wires are supposed to be in what possition.On an actual plug..


And last question if these wires were like i said above would they make the iac not function properly.Or is it as long as they are on the same bank its ok?

Trying to word this right..lol

 

Blue with white top right
Blue with black top left
Green with white bottom left
Green with black bottom right

That's what it's like looking down from the end that plugs into the IACV with the retaining clip on the top.

Also, it should matter, as I beleive the IACV uses one set of diagonals to give it the signal in, and one set to get the signal to move out. Not completely sure though, but wouldn't want to risk it.

 

Mine is


Clip
BW GW
BB GB


looking from wire side clip on top..Is this correct??

 

Not the way mine is. And since we both have an 87..... On the wire side mine looks like this.

Clip
BW BB
GB GW

 

hmmm i wonder if that would cause a real problem. don,t want to burn the iac out by swithing wires around.
----------
see when i ground the adl and try and set it it doesn't click unless i push on it and then it clicks irratic or no click at all i should be able to here it if its clicking.

 

Is it running right? If it is, leave it. If not, it couldn't hurt. It's not that expensive of a part, but it is a bitch to change. When you do it, you might as well do the throttle body coolant bypass, and clean as much crap as you can. Oh, and if you want to torque it properly, find a 1 and 1/4 inch deepwell thinwall socket. Good luck. I just used a monkey wrench and tightened it until it felt as tight as it was when I took it off. Lined up with the plug too.

 

I think i kind of have the same problem. I broke the retaining clip on my connetor plug for the IAC. I've been having off and on high and low idles problems and thought maybe the plug wasn't staying tight. So I decided to replace the plug. All four wires on the new plug were gray so i didn't think it mattered about which one went where. Now my idle is constantly high. 800rpm in gear and 1400 in park/nuetral. Does it matter where each wire plugs into the plug? Please let me know. Thanks.

 

I don't know for sure, but I would have to say it very much does matter. Especially with idle like that. You should have high idle at start, like 1500, then it should drop to 1000, then should drop to like, 650-750. Never looked at my idle in gear. Prolly 500. I'll check mine again and get back to you. Next time you replace a plug, if the connector is broken, get a pin retractor/remover, take out the pins inside, take out the pins on the new plug, and clip your old pins into the new plug. You won't get any resistance from butt splices, and you won't have to solder wires to try to get as little resistance as possible, and there's no cutting your factory harness. Sadly, I damaged my MAF wires because the bloody plug fell onto the V-belt. Just chafed the wires, but now that's gonna be resistance city. For actually having to cut wires and stuff, buy the plug from someone that has ones for our cars, so the wiring colors will match, then you need to cut, strip the wires, slide a piece of colored heat shrink onto each wire, twist the matching wires together, get a soldering iron, and solder the wires so that they won't get corroded easily, then slide the heatshrink over the soldered wire, and heat it with a torch or a heat gun. That is the BEST way to make ANY repair to your wiring harness. Some people say to make a butt splice (red blue or yellow connecter that gets crimped) but that introduces a place for the wires to oxidize. There are heat shrink connectors, but when I use those, I fill them with di-electric grease before I crimp them on the wires and heat them, to keep as much oxygen out as possible.

 

Thanks Scary. One more question for you. With the car running when I unplug the connector, the idle does not change. You thinks that's because it's screwed up and it's getting bad readings from the crossed wires even when it's not plugged up? I'm going to use your wire setup that you posted here earlier. I assume our's are the same since it's the same engine and also TPI. I wish I would of used that Pin/retractor tool you mentioned. I didn't know it existed. Thanks again. btw Do you know where I can get that tool?

 

Yes it does matter which pair is connect to which coil.
On the connector next to where the pin is inserted, there should be a letter.

Letter --- wire Color --- Pair

1. A--------Blue/White-----1
2. B-------- Blue/Black-----1
3. C-------Green/White-----2
4. D-------Green/Black-----2

Mine is an '88, but should be the same for '87.

 

Removed.