Smog removal
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 75
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From: Clearwater, FL
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Smog removal
Alright, I wanna see the rest of my engine. so I want to get the smog stuff out.
Is there anything that needs to be plugged or re-routed when I rip all of this out?
Anyone know of any write ups on how to remove it?
Is there anything that needs to be plugged or re-routed when I rip all of this out?
Anyone know of any write ups on how to remove it?
Computer controlled carbureted engine? If so, yes, you car rip a ton of that stuff off and not cause any problems with the engine's basic operation while cleaning up the look under the hood considerably.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, FL
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
So taking off the stuff, it should not affect the way my car runs?
I'll just make sure there are no loose vacuum lines. Thanks man.
I'll just make sure there are no loose vacuum lines. Thanks man.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,171
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Nothing will be affected, you can take out the pump, the AIR diverter box, and the stock headers with the AIR tubes and it wouldnt make a difference. Just make sure you dont have visuals for inspection. Up here in NJ all they check for is your cat.
For a computer controlled 4bbl (QJet) engine you only need the following hook-ups still in place to run right:
1. TPS, MC Solenoid and choke heater wire plugs on the carb
2. VAC sensor (vacuum line from back of the carb to this sensor and sensor still plugged into the computer)
3. BARO sensor (looks just like the VAC sensor but never had a vacuum line going to it, just a computer connection).
4. O2 sensor in the driver's exhaust manifold with it's one-wire connection
5. EGR valve, EGR solenoid (and the vacuum lines going to them and the computer connection to the EGR solenoid). Some people have successfully removed the EGR system completely without ill effects, but others have gotten check engine lights after removing it.
6. You should keep the PCV valve and vacuum line to the port on the front of the carb.
7. Still need the vacuum connection to the port on the intake manifold behind the carb so your HVAC controls still work properly.
Everything else can go, assuming unused ports are plugged appropriately. Basically you're taking off everything that relates to the evaporative emissions system (charcoal canister) and the air-injection system. Those 2 things represent most of the vacuum hose spaghetti you see when you pop the hood.
1. TPS, MC Solenoid and choke heater wire plugs on the carb
2. VAC sensor (vacuum line from back of the carb to this sensor and sensor still plugged into the computer)
3. BARO sensor (looks just like the VAC sensor but never had a vacuum line going to it, just a computer connection).
4. O2 sensor in the driver's exhaust manifold with it's one-wire connection
5. EGR valve, EGR solenoid (and the vacuum lines going to them and the computer connection to the EGR solenoid). Some people have successfully removed the EGR system completely without ill effects, but others have gotten check engine lights after removing it.
6. You should keep the PCV valve and vacuum line to the port on the front of the carb.
7. Still need the vacuum connection to the port on the intake manifold behind the carb so your HVAC controls still work properly.
Everything else can go, assuming unused ports are plugged appropriately. Basically you're taking off everything that relates to the evaporative emissions system (charcoal canister) and the air-injection system. Those 2 things represent most of the vacuum hose spaghetti you see when you pop the hood.
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