Yes, I did a search *L*

Going to rebuild a spare 305 I have, nothing big really, not going to waste money on boring a 305 and going with new pistons, just want a more or less basic overhaul.

As far as main bearings and piston rings go, should I go with the ones that come in rebuild kits, or should I go with Sealed Power or something, if I can find them ?

And no, I can't afford buying a 350 block right now, otherwise I would go that way.

 

Well depending on your application of use, use the kit for a regular daily use, and piece together a kit for harsher driving environments like limited strip and abuse.

 

OK this is what I'm planning to do to the engine:


1) LT1 cam, got one laying around
2) I'll need new better valve springs to go with the new cam
3) New water pump, probably simple stock replacement unit
4) Port match everything, including the LO3 heads unless I can find other heads for free or under 50 bucks

I'd like to maybe go as far as attempting to adapt an Eaton supercharger for the engine, while it's being rebuilt, before I go put it in the car.

I believe the engine had hmmm 190K on it, before buddy of mine did the 350 swap.

So basically, not going crazy with this engine, some parts I can later on move to a 350, but I want it running solid and good for a couple of years.

 

Well, i would piece the parts u need for that application, you speek of using boost possibly then you need a good ring sey, and you need to gap them for compressor application, i am sure it will not be allot of boost,but you should install arp bolts in the rods and have them shot peened and resized, it may very possible to find a set of rods aftermarket that will hold better and save you $$$.I have seen 5.0 chevy do very well on boost, you should purchase a stall converter while you have everything apart.

 

Now what is the problem I've heard regarding stock rods or bolts ?


The supercharger setup depends on two things:

1) Can I adapt it to work, should be able to do.

2) Can I find an Eaton M90, I've seen several M62's but it seems like the 90 is shorter but fatter, may be easier to adapt, and of course, more air.

 

Research the blowers and apply the one that works for your needs, the stock rod bolts are not performance grade, the ARP bolts everyone and their momma uses are built at 190000 psi, they are strong as it dets without using an aftermarket rod that uses bolts not nuts,you need to check hood clearance issues.

 

i'm assuming you're going to hone out your cylinders yourself, and use a ridge reamer to take off any ridge that's there eh?
Use stock iron rings, since the block isn't getting a bore and machine shop lovin'. Iron rings are more forgiving and seat better.
Bearings - stock replacement styles, like summits $13 sets are just great for your application. I'd micrometer or plastigauge the crank to be sure though.

ARP rod bolts are a good idea too, if you've got your die grinder there, maybe check vizards book on "max power from a SBC on a budget". I just finished reading it, he goes on about other things you can use your die grinder on your engine for (aside from porting), and it seems pretty slick. Like knocking off casting flash, removing stress risers, etc.

summit gasket sets are ~$30, or the mrg one. Damn good deal, since head gaskets alone are usually $30 per, and this includes that, and everything else.

 

OK stock iron rings huh ? Yes the block isn't going to see any machining time, I may grind a little bit underneath the intake manifold, smooth it down but that may be about it.


Any other gasket sets out there which may be good ? The stores I'll be getting it through of course don't carry summit sets, so hmm Fel Pro ?

I know Mr. Gasket has sets but uhmmm my experience with Mr. Gasket has been less than positive

 

I have allways had great luck with fel-pro, i have yet to blow a set on a naturally aspirated motor.

 

Sounds good.


I guess last question ( hopefully ) would be, standard headgasket, or another kind, since I .. may.... use a blower, even though it won't be extreme since an Eaton won't do an extreme difference

 

Well you are not using any forged components in your engine so that limits your options to a small ammount of boost, so i believe you will be fine with a fel-pro gasket.

 

Thanks

 

yea, I bought all my motor parts from summit, even after shipping duty, etc, it was still below half the price of what i'd be paying here.
Fel pro is definately the main stay, yep. But you'll pay a bunch if you buy them all seperate, I guess price out a gasket set.

I don't really buy it if someone says one gasket is better than another, most gaskets are the same, unless we're talking about exotic 1 piece rubber gaskets (oil pan, etc). It's all user skill, make sure its super clean, use RTV etc etc

File fit your new rings, pay attention to your ring gaps. They added leakage with a larger gap is so incredibly tiny you'll never notice it, but the nice thing is you can run a bit of boost (or nitrous, never know right?) and be safe.

A normal composite head gasket will work just fine. You'll be raising your quench and dropping your CR a bit though. Check with your straight edge to see how flat your heads and deck are. If they are good, like under .002" of flatness (motor was never overheated, etc) then use another GM shim gasket. Be careful with your head bolts, tightening them down el perfecto, head bolt washers, teflon on threads, etc etc. That's time well spent there.

Well, if you don't plan on going hog wild hitting every little detail with the grinder, may want to knock off the casting flash in the distributor oil drain hole.