engine wiring... (cutting)
engine wiring... (cutting)
OK, to start its an '88 trans am. I am converting it to carb and wont be keeping anything really but the lights, wipers and power windows. The firewall is getting "smoothed" all the A/C and heat stuff is gone along with all the vent and other crap from behind the dash. I am putting in a TT383 with a TH400 trans. So will i be able to use any of the stock gauges? If possible i want to use all my stock gauges and just add a pod any additional gauges, but im not sure if that will work with my setup.
Also as far as all the other stuff i wont need goes, can i just fallow the wires bakc to the main bulkhead connection that goes to the ECM and just remove them completely? (example; A/C stuff, TBI stuff, and other senseors and such i wont be using) Or do you think it would be easier to just use all aftermarket gauges? My main thing is i want to keep the headligths, taillights, turn signals etc... all like they are stock
Also as far as all the other stuff i wont need goes, can i just fallow the wires bakc to the main bulkhead connection that goes to the ECM and just remove them completely? (example; A/C stuff, TBI stuff, and other senseors and such i wont be using) Or do you think it would be easier to just use all aftermarket gauges? My main thing is i want to keep the headligths, taillights, turn signals etc... all like they are stock
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,675
Likes: 3
From: Arab, Alabama
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 4BBL
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Engine oil pressure and temp will work if you use the original engine sending units on the new engine. The alternator charge/volts won't change if you use the original alternator. You can hook up the tach wire and the stock tach will work unless you are using a MSD system. Leave the ECM in place (it doesn't weigh that much). You can kill 2 birds with one stone and disconnect the "check engine" light at the ECM and use it for a rev limit/shift light. Don't forget to hook up the ground wires to the back side of the D/S cylinder head.
The hard part is figuring what to do with the in-tank fuel pump. I would recommend using a "bypass regulator" and rewiring the F/P relay to run at key on.
The hard part is figuring what to do with the in-tank fuel pump. I would recommend using a "bypass regulator" and rewiring the F/P relay to run at key on.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 4
From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
If TBI unit (15-20psi) would work with the proper bypass-regulator.
A MPFI fuel pump would have to bypass 30-35psi which is the reverse of what it was designed to do.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,675
Likes: 3
From: Arab, Alabama
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 4BBL
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
All the other (non-bypass) regulators won't work so don't try to cheap-out.
Last edited by Supervisor42; Jan 22, 2007 at 05:18 PM.
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