Okay guys, to get my crossover off to get my oil pan out I had to break my rusted studs. The car has a smog pump and the fittings are rusted and stuck in the manifold, so i need to get these broken studs out without removing the passenger side manifold. The drivers side isnt a big deal as there is no smog pump lines on that side.
So I need some tips on removing these damned things, last time I did it on another vehicle I didnt have much luck even with the manifolds removed. This time it seems Ive begun in a better position... there is enough of the studs left for me to grab with vice grips. I think Im gonna try heating them up with a torch and twisting them out with the vice grips. Anyone have any better ideas?
I know I can just delete the smog pump but that still leaves me trying to get the rusted fittings out and taking off the manifold and possibly breaking other rusted crap.

 

You could maybe remove the rubber hose from the check valve and then it would be entirely free of everything else?

If you took the manifold out, which since you've already got it loose from the headpipe is about a 5 minute task if you stop twice for entire cold ones, you could (a) fix the leaks that they always have at the head, (b) get the AIR tubes out and plug the holes, and (c) take care of the stud issue.

Seems to me like rather than finding excuses for not doing the obvious, it would be best to meet the challenge head-on.

 

5 minutes? FIVE MINUTES!?!?!?! Have you ever worked on a rusted out piece of **** before? Me thinks not. Hell Ive been out there for 2 hours and have not gotten ANYWHERE.

 

Yeah, 1 or 2 over the course of the last 35 years or so... just a hazard of the hobby I guess. Including more than a few boats, if you want to talk about rust.

Sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do. I told you what it is you gotta do. I don't know what you were expecting. No sense complaining about it, or saying bad things about ME because I told you what's required; it's just time to suck it up and DO IT. But in this case, there's not even that much to suck up, even; it's just an exhaust manifold. 6 bolts. That's it. Rotate all 6 fully counterclockwise, then everything else will suddenly be much easier.

If you think you're having fun now, and this is too tough to handle, you might want to farm out that oil pan job to somebody with a little more testicular fortitude. You ain't even getting close to a whiff of a glimpse of a hint of a clue about "fun" yet. Let alone, whatever it is that you're thinking you're going to accomplish by removing the pan.

 

Use some PB blaster, then some heat, a torch would be nice, not to hot but enough, and then a pair of vice grips, and take your time get it close to the block so as not to twist it off

 

Hey hey hey calm down, dont want you to have to get off the sofa

I wasnt saying anything about you, Ive just been fed up with slogging around in the gravel and mud and freezing my *** off for the last few days. 5 minutes was funny... its kinda like those manuals that give you an estimate of how long it will take to do something, I always double it and add 6 hours and even then I come up needing more time LOL I guess Im slow, or my tools are junk or my working conditions suck or a combination of all three. It takes me more than 5 minutes to find the right tools! This aint my first foray into removing oil pans or exhaust manifolds or broken studs. This one is just more of a stubborn bitch than most. Thats okay, I'll yank the damn motor if I have to! <yells at the car> How thats for stubborn you rust bucket piece of ****!!

If the motor comes out the manifolds WILL come off.

Thanks for the help sofa and kjvail.

 

Yeah, I feel your frustration. I'm not trying to be harsh, just to shame you into tackling it.

Actually, yanking the motor is not a bad idea at all.

That will save you the hassle of trying to lay on your back in whatever your situation there is, and get an oil pan to seal up leak free and all that.

You might not have to yank it COMPLETELY out; if you pulled it up and forward far enough to get the pan to clear everything, which doesn't necessarily mean "out" all the way, it might actually save you time and money compared to struggling with everything in such an awkward position.

Why are you pulling the pan in the first place?

 

The pan was rusted in several differant locations and starting to leak bad. Patching the currently leaking spots necessitated the removing of the crossover pipe (and the breaking of the studs to remove it) so instead of just putting a band aid on it I though it best to remove the oil pan and replace. The ironic part is I managed to get the oil pan off without pulling the engine, now its gonna make my world a whole lot easier (albeit much more expensive) to go ahead and pull it to get the manifolds off so I can fix em. I pick up my new engine puller tomorrow morning and the fun begins.