Yah, I was getting a little roughness on the highway around 1500-1600 RPM and then it would clear up as the engine got warmer. Now today, I started the car and it idled initially but when I gave it some gas, it started to stumble. Finally it stalled out and although it turns over, there doesn't appear to be any firing from the ignition circuit. The fuel pump is on and I can smell gas but the engine won't fire. The car is sitting in my driveway which is a good thing but I'm wondering why the car won't start. I don't have a code reader here at home handy at the moment. This car has an 89 Corvette Chip, headers, 24 PSI Accel injectors, Holley fuel regulator, Taylor wires and
Edelbrock performer heads. The EGR is new and the fuel filter was replaced not long ago. I'm wondering if the coil or distributor cap has gone bad. A new cap was installed about 2 years ago.

Thanks,
Laser

 

you can pull your codes using the paperclip trick.

Pull a wire and check for spark. Also, check the fuel pressure.

 

Thanks, I picked up a code analyzer, just reading the instructions right now. Well, I'm home here by myself so no one to turn it over while I'm checking for spark, fuel etc. I can smell gas so I don't think that's it. It's just not firing at all so we'll see what the code says.
Regards,
Laser

 

The reason i think it may be fuel related is that ignition components generally get worse as the car warms up...

As i've always been told, just because the pump is on and you can smell gas doesnt mean there is enough gas.. I would check it for peace of mind, but only after you find out whether or not you have spark.

 

I'm getting a code 12 which says it really hasn't found anything! This is going to be a good one, I'm sure.

 

Hi, my 91 camaro had the same problem. I had a new EGR and fuel filter was replaced as well. The problem turned out to a blown pick-up coil in the distributor which was causing a no spark condition. I bought a remanufactured stock distributor from Autozone for $164 that included a core charge. After replacing it and setting the timing, it started up. You can also replace the pick up coil itself but, you have take out and disassemble the distributor on the later models like the 91 and 92, but I think the older models before 91 requires you to remove only two philip screws that are beneath the distributor rotor w/o removing the whole distributor. Hope this helps.

 

Get a remote starter switch, and spark checker, shouldn't be more than $15 for both. The pressure shouldn't bleed of right away because there's a check valve on the output of the pump. Prime it then check the gauge should be about 40-45psi.

 

Thanks, funny thing it started up and started missing after I stepped on the gas. This symptom started on the road a few weeks ago and seemed to disappear after it fully warmed up. It might be that fuel pump as well, not enough pressure up to the fuel rails and regulator which is set at 46 PSI. Then again as you suggested, it may be in the ignition circuit. I'll have to see if there is spark from the coil and to the plug wires. At 20 years old, any part could be susceptible to failure.
Thanks,
Steve

 

Thanks, that's a good idea. I'm already into new jumper cables and a code analyzer. It's bringing up a code 12 which indicates normal conditions for the systems it monitors. The car had enough fuel to idle but then eventually killed when I opened the throttle. My driveway is on an incline as well which may influence a weak fuel pump. With no other codes like the ignition being shown, I may not be getting enough fuel. However as you suggested, the spark will have to be checked and then the fuel line pressure.
Appreciate your ideas,
Steve

 

No problem. Good luck

 

Yah, the fuel pump does come on for 2 seconds after turning the switch to on. I did manage to pull the distributor cap, no small feat on these unless your a midget and can crawl right in there. The rotor was black and full of carbon dust as was the center electrode on the cap. This was like replaced, about 3 years ago but didn't look too good. I'll change the rotor and cap and then go from there and see if there is spark to the plugs.
Regards,
Steve

 

Not being one to leave this box incomplete and in the interest of helping out someone with a similar problem........ The reason for the non-start was a defective coil. How unlikely that is to go to hell is anyone's guess. The fuel pump was normal and so was the distributor despite probably being originals in the car. Anyhow, the only code I received was a 12 which did not indicate a fault in the ignition system. Hopefully, we'll be good now for a few more thousand miles.

Regards,
Laser

 

good for you, a coil is a lot easier then a fuel pump!