Hey guys, I just obtained a 92 RS with a starter problem. When I crank the car, the Starter turns and spins freely without turning the engine. I'm thinking I have a bad Flywheel. I turned the engine a bit to see if it would engage and it wouldnt. Any ideas? Thanks!

 

It sounds like the bendex is not engaging the flywheel, you can have the parts house test it, i have had this problem too, i had to simply buy and install another one.

 

what you can do to get to the shop is have your buddy turn the ignition while you jently tap on the starter solenoid with a steel pole. starter motors rarely break down, its usually the solenoid which engages the gear into the flexplate. the problem is that the lever arm wears out and gets stuck, tapping on the solenoid usually unsticks the arm and allows the engine to start. but that tapping thing only works for a few times before it completely goes.

 

I changed the starter today. The one that was in there was a Reman'd but it wasnt shimmed so that's what killed it. However, i have to shim my current one. I got the engine to turn over. Only to find out, I have no fuel sparying in the Throttle Body.

 

TBI? Could be as simple a fix as pulling the injector and soaking it in fuel. Some people have come up with some clever injector cleaning methods.

Fuel pressure test will tell you, if I'm not mistaken the TBI is the one where you need to undo fuel lines to test - as opposed to having a nice convenient fuel rail mounted schrader valve.

 

Fuel pressure test will tell you, if I'm not mistaken the TBI is the one where you need to undo fuel lines to test - as opposed to having a nice convenient fuel rail mounted schrader valve.[/quote]


Correct

 

So the Fuel Pump primes, but I'm still not getting fuel to the injectors. Is there any relays I should check? I looked at the Injector Fuses and they're fine.

 

The fuel lines are on the back of the tb. Losen them and c if you are geting fuel to the tb before you do anything else.

 

Does anyone have a picture on how the starter should look installed properly? I've been told theres a bracket thats supposed to hold the starter and prevent it from flexing. My starter turns the engine then spins and hits the flywheel.

 

Ive never needed the bracket, even with the larger heavy duty starters Ive used when Ive had an automatic. Just the two starter bolts are enough. Its mainly there to help support the girth of the heavy direct drive starters rather then letting it dangle off the nose piece. What kind of conidition are the starter bolts in? Have you verified the proper backlash in the pinion gear? Is the ring gear on the flexplate in good shape? Nose cone still intact? It could also be a faulty starter as well, or maybe the starter isnt staying engaged.

As for the TBI no start, leave that for now... Its likely something in the ignition or maybe VATS, but it could be related if the wiring at the starter isnt quite right. Lots of things pull power from the main lug at the starter.

 

I got the TBI to start, I had the pick up module plug out. The plastic cracked so the plug was loose behind the Distributor.

I didnt have a Wire Feeler Gauge to check the clearance of the Flexplate and Pinion gear. The starter bolts are ing ood condition. However, I still need to jack the car up and recheck the flywheel teeth. If I ever get the car started again.

You can kinda hear the noise in this vid I made a few weeks ago.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRJ3-rLL2N0 (excuse my voice I was sick)

I'll make another vid with the sound clip of what's happening now. After I had it running then I let if off of the jackstands I couldnt get it to start again. So I turned the engine from the alternator pulley and then cranked it until it catched and started up.

Thanks For your Help!

 

The paperclip method works well for starters. I dont remember off hand what wire size you need dimensionally, but it provides the proper reference. I have to use a weenie little FWD starter on my 350 because my block is f'd, and it works ok when the shim is set up properly. If the starter grinds, the shim is off. It should be relatively quiet and smooth.
----------
From the sound in that video, it sounds like the flexplate is toast.

 

That's def what I didnt want to hear.

 

Anyone know what's the amount of teeth on the Flexplate? Im getting ready to order a new one. And maybe some links to some decent priced ones. Thanks!

 

The stock flexplate is 153 tooth for a one piece rear main seal. Itll have a little counterwieght on it since the external counterweight on the crank was displaced by the newer RMS.

I take it the current one was indeed missing a few teeth?

 

Finally refilled my Floor jack with Fliud and got the car off the ground. Flywheel, on long bad spot. Ordering a new one from AutoZone this week.

Thanks guys!