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Budget combo, Your opinions

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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 12:53 AM
  #1  
streetheatz28's Avatar
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From: Asheboro, Nc
Car: 88 Sportcoupe camaro
Engine: forged 355
Transmission: th350
Budget combo, Your opinions

I just bought a 87 transam, I have a 86 z28 tpi 305 for my daily driver and I want to build a weekend car out of the transam. The transam came with a 350 that runs decent but isn't much so I'm going to pull it and build this:

350 .030 over - 355 (using rebuild kit hypereutetic pistons 9:73:1 comp ratio)
stock crank/rods (will get inspected by machine shop)
New crank/rod bearings arp bolts.
Vortec cylinder heads for high lift cams up to .550 lift (stock unported)
Lunati Voodoo cam 233/241 dur. .504"/.525 lift
Edelbrock rpm air-gap vortec intake 1500-6500 rpm
Edelbrock 750 cfm performer carb mech. secondaires
Flowtech shorty headers into dynomax bullets dumping before rearend.
Turbo 350 transmission with 2500-3000 rpm stall
either 12 bolt or ford 9 inch rear with 4.10 gears

That about sum's it up besides odds and ends. I'd like to run low 13's high
12's with this combo with weight reduction and sticky tires. This engine will not be sprayed and only driven on the weekend mostly on the street with a trip or 2 to the strip. What do yall think and what would yall change?

Thanks in advance!
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 12:02 PM
  #2  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally Posted by streetheatz28
Edelbrock 750 cfm performer carb mech. secondaires
There is no such thing. Try Holley 750 double pumper.

Flowtech = misnomer. At least for the 3rd gen shorty headers. Small primaries, poor quality. Most anything else (except Summit shorties, since they're the same thing) would be better. I also wouldn't dump Bullets before the axle. Much noise, no benefits. Take the exhaust to the rear bumper.

If you can't get high 12's out of that combo without weight reduction, something is seriously wrong.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 03:20 PM
  #3  
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
The combo looks good. Get long tube headers. its all about torque on the street and long tubes make a lot more of that, and power too. Use a higher stall. 3000 minimum, 3500stall best. (10") Harder launches= more fun.

A Moser bolt in 12bolt or 9in is kinda going to blow the budget. The stock 7.5" 10 bolt will live. Get the Aluminum rear cover with the maincap preload bolts.
I think for bootin' around on the street and such you'll be fine with the 7.5. Maybe splurge for some Moser Alloy axles for it.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 03:49 PM
  #4  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I read that the Z28 is the daily and the 'Bird is to be the track/weekend warrior.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 05:56 PM
  #5  
streetheatz28's Avatar
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From: Asheboro, Nc
Car: 88 Sportcoupe camaro
Engine: forged 355
Transmission: th350
Yup the camaro is the d/d it only has 68k original miles and runs perfect. Thanks for the info, I have a couple questions, do yall think a 750 dp is too much for this combo? And I've been thinking about buying a eagle rotating assembly for 600 bucks out of summit that can withstand 500 hp and maybe going with a 150 shot for kicks. I will def have to get a aftermarket rear with the 450-475 rwhp I'd be putting down. What would be the cheapest way to go rearend wise? I wouldent spray off the line. How much power can a 4th gen rear handle?
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 06:54 PM
  #6  
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I'm sure you have seen it before, but:

Cheap, Fast, Reliable......Choose Two.


That $600 Eagle Rotating assembly is probably fine for a street/strip N/A setup, but when you throw nitrous or boost in the picture, things change a little. I don't want to speculate on the parts you are referring to, so may I ask the part # that you are looking at?

The type of block you have will also affect the path you take part wise, so check to see what type of block you have (1-piece rms or 2-piece?) before you start getting parts. Since this is a budget build, I would also recommend using Summit as your "catalog", and getting the actual parts from a less expensive competitor.

Last edited by Phatfiddler; Feb 13, 2007 at 07:00 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 12:00 AM
  #7  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally Posted by streetheatz28
This engine will not be sprayed and only driven on the weekend mostly on the street with a trip or 2 to the strip.
Originally Posted by Phatfiddler
That $600 Eagle Rotating assembly is probably fine for a street/strip N/A setup, but when you throw nitrous or boost in the picture, things change a little.
I left the "not" out when I first read about being sprayed, too.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 12:27 PM
  #8  
Phatfiddler's Avatar
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Originally Posted by streetheatz28
...been thinking about buying a eagle rotating assembly for 600 bucks out of summit that can withstand 500 hp and maybe going with a 150 shot for kicks...
He wants to add a 150 shot to it on top of the 500HP mark from what I can tell. That cast steel crank in that kit is rated at approximately 500hp.

I'm pretty sure he needs to set a goal in mind, seeing he seems to being swaying either way at the moment....
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 04:21 PM
  #9  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
So, which is it: Spray, or no spray????
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 07:27 PM
  #10  
Sonix's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
150hp of spray isn't life changing, just widen the ring gaps in the beginning, when you build the motor. If you do or don't, it's fine.

The only main issue will be traction, or other parts breaking (rear end, etc), but that's aside from the issue of the motor.

That's a slick motor setup, very good choices there. I agree, 3000+ rpm stall, and a double pumper.

Look at dynomax ultra flow welded mufflers, they flow like crazy. If you don't want to spend the $$BIG BUCKS$$ for long tubes, hedmann or hooker make a nice shorty setup that would do the job.

Look carefully at the price difference of resizing/peening/putting in ARP bolts in your stock rods, vs buying the entry level ohio crankshaft rods. $179, I thin they're a bit better than stock, and come with ARP bolts, ready to run. It was cheaper for me than redoing my stock rods so...

4th gen rears are the same as ours virtually, just a bit wider.

9" or 12 bolt are nice, but pricey. I'm not sure you want to use 4.11 gears with no-od if you intend to drive it much. I don't think you really *need* that much gear, and the roar of the engine going 45mph down the road might get old.

Oh yea, the 2nd gen camaros 8.5" rear can be modified to fit our cars, if you don't mind changing all the brackets over and making up a TA mount. Ok, so it sounds hard, but the width, and bolt pattern for the wheels is right on, and there is good selection for gears and posi units for it. Just a thought, probably a lot cheaper than a complete 9"/12 bolt ready to run.
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