Well.

I have spend a fair amout of time trying to plan out an engine that can get my goal of 12 Seconds, Handle a 100 shot of nitrous, and still be drivable.

The engine is a 1991 SBC 350, that will retain the stock 4.000 bore, and 3.48 stroke

My aim is to spend less then $4000 on everything i do here.

I will list a few parts of each, and PLEASE Help me pick out parts. Let me know where i need better parts, where i can get away with cheaper parts etc.

First off, im going to let you know when the car wil be used:
The car will see regular driving, and be at the strip about 5 - 6 times per year. (season is about 8 months long up here in igloo land) Nitrous bottle will only be in the car at the strip, and only used on a few runs.

Ok, so here goes.

I have lowered it down to 2 induction systems:
LT1 intake modified
TPI W/ High flow Base & Runners, Ported Plenum larged TB

Engine:
Heads:
If TPI, would like to use:
RHS Pro Vortec Heads PN:12403
I have not picked heads to go with LT1 intake. Is it possible to get the stock 083 castings to produce power?

Rotating assembly:
Speed pro Hypereutectic Flat top pistons
Eagle SIR I-Beam Connecting Rods
Would like to use stock crank if possible.

Bearings and freeze plugs, gaskets etc will come with the rebuild kit from summit/speedpro that also includes rings

Cam:
Comp XFI 07-466-8
Duration: 218/224 Lift: .570/.565

GM LT4 Hotcam

LT4 cam would be used with 1.6 rockers, Comp cam would be used with 1.52 ratio rockers.

Exhaust:

I currently have Edelbrock TES headers, but i know they are not sufficient for 12 seconds. What headers would be best with budget kept in mind? Also noting i dont want LT headers.

Driveline:
Transmission is already modifed with a stage 2 shift kit
LS1 Aluminum driveshaft will be added
I currently have a 10 bolt 3.42 rear.

So, am i way off on my goal? I dont mind if i run low 13s, and i have to spray my way to mid 12s.

Emissions is no concern. Engien will be coming out and freshened up with new bearings etc.

Thanks for the help!

Sheldon

 

emissions is no concern then carb it is:


vortec heads modified for more lift from scoggin-dickey parts center for $550
purchase new springs that comp recommends for best reliability
XE274 or roller equivalent
performer RPM air-gap
750dp holley or proform/equiv.
350 ci
9.5-10:1
3500 stall
3.73 gears

low 12s on motor, no nitrous needed for your goals.

 

These parts with which heads?

 

Big stall for a street car no?

 

I am still pretty new to the SBC world. How much money we talking for all those parts or to get 12's? Say your starting with just a good tranny, but no 350 block. Just curious what it would take to get to the 12's. -Nick

 

edited original post
----------
no it's fine with a tranny cooler
----------
www.summitracing.com
www.jegs.com

search prices for the various parts on there. As for a block, etc call up local speed shops/engine builders to get prices on a 350 engine. Most shops have shortblocks for $1500 or so all rebuilt or more for fully forged, which if you're staying N/A fully forged isn't needed

 

The reason i was looking at the RHS heads over the modified vortecs:

Strait from the RHS site:

OVERVIEW
FEATURES:
170cc intake runner
Multi-angled intake valve seats
Radiused exhaust valve seats
1.550” valve spring seat
Improved retainer to guide clearance
Hardened valve seatsExtra-thick deck faces
Dual pattern (early and late model) intake manifold compatibility

New RHS™ Pro Torker™ Vortec heads outflow all previously available Small Block Chevy iron cylinder heads. In comparison to the popular GM 906 casting, Pro Torker™ Vortec heads flow 27 more cfm at 0.500” lift -right out of the box. Made from premium-quality cast iron using our patented Clean Cast Technology™, Pro Torker™ heads deliver the competitive edge in racing classes where iron heads are required.
Pro Torker™ Vortec heads come standard with radiused, hardened exhaust seats, multi-angled intake seats, and “Fast Burn” 64cc or 67cc combustion chambers. To ensure maximum versatility, Pro Torker™ Vortec heads feature dual pattern intake compatibility to allow use with virtually any intake manifold, early or late. Also equipped with 1.550” valve spring seats and valve guides engineered to avoid retainer to guide clearance issues when used with high lift camshafts, Pro Torker™ Vortec heads have overcome all of the shortcomings normally associated with OEM Vortec heads. So if you’re in the market for a superior-performing cast iron cylinder head, remember that RHS™ delivers the ultimate in high-quality, high-flow technology with its new Pro Torker™ Vortec heads.
----------
Oh and these heads are $275 per casting, so they fit right into my budget.

Id like to keep EFI if at all possible. I know next to nothing about carbs, but id like to say im fairly knowledgeable towards the TPI system

 

TPI won't make near the power for $$$$ that a carb will....carbs are extremely easy to setup and will make a lot more power. You could spend $1000 more on TPI components and run .7 slower.

The RHS heads are a good choice as well, but remember valve, springs, retainers, etc aren't cheap if it's $275 a head for a bare casting. You can also sell your TPI setup on ebay for $300-500 complete and put that towards your swap.

 

Yeah, forsure.

I liked the idea of bare heades because i wanted to put in beehive springs and stainless valves etc.

I will have to makesure im safe from emissions, or ill have to stick to EFI.

If i can get away from EFI, chances are ill look at the Demon 750 carb.

I would probably keep my EFI just incase i even want it back on later down the road

 

demons are junk, their quality control has gone to crap.

get a proform or holley HP instead, if you keep the EFI then switch to stealth ram, etc or that LT1 intake I suppose, but be prepared to spend a lot on tuning after every mod you add at a later date since the tune will change.

 

Yeah.

The other thing i have been wondering is if a stock crank will hold up to a 100 shot of nitrous??

 

good for and main bolts or studs will be good to 150 shot no problem, but I already outlined a combo to run low 12s, your goal was mid 12s on nitrous, so it would be more reliable to just build the combo I layed out than build a TPI 13 second motor and spray it.

 

Im doing re-search now on what needs to be done to convert my car from EFI to Carb.

The swap will be done next year and i will build the engine over the summer.

The carb seems to be the way to go, i just need to makesure i can get away from emissions and other legalities.

What headers are best to use? Id like to stay away from long tubes due to ground clearance.

Sheldon

 

1 3/4" shorties would work, but long tubes would be better. I have 4" + of ground clearance on my camaro with long tubes, so it can be done. I run the headmann long tubes since they tuck up higher than the hooker long tubes

 

Does the Y-pipe still cross under the transmission??

How do the Heddman LT headers run for pricing? The 1 3/45 SLP headers are something like $700. Thats far more then i would like to spend on headers.

I am currently doing re-search on what needs to be done to get rid of emissions. I do have an 85 Parts car in my shop that is carbed.

Im going to get some more information on What emissions i can get away with. I know tehre is ways to get away without emissions testing. My car is an 89, so in the GTA (Greater Toronto Area) my car should reqiure testing.

Sheldon

 

exhaust board talks about headmanns, so does summitracing.com for prices

 

You realise that a 89car will always require emissions testing.
Unless you have a "Hot rod" motor, the emissions are just as strict as the stock motor. You cannot build up a roller block and call it a hot rod motor. Has to be a 283-327 or 400ci or any BBC block that never came in a Camaro.
Over and above testing:
Legally you still need all emissions equipment installed and functional for the year of body. If you build a carbed 350 it is not a "hot rod" You will have trouble passing emissions.
You're liable to get very expensive tickets for emissions equipment violations if you leave stuff off an 89. Better to leave that car stock and build a pre 88 car.
The Toronto area is much more strick and does fine drivers for emissions violations. Wait till Kyoto comes into effect.
You haven't seen anything yet. You are backing your self into a corner you may not be able to get out of by "Hot Rodding" a
89car as you plan.

 

Bro, for $4000, you can easily get ton's of HP. First, go to cnc-motorsports.com. I purchased an eagle 4340 crank for $300 bucks, scat 4340 rods for 200 bucks and weisco pistons and rings for $400. I also purchased the H-series bearings. Head selection and cam selection is where you can gain a crap load of HP. Personally, I would go with the AFR heads. I have had bad experience with trickflow's, yet I know a lot of guys here have had good luck with them. I paid 1200 for my AFR 190 heads. Like you, I too have Edlebrock TES headers, there OK, not the best choice, but will clearly do the job. You can always purchase a new set of headers once your new engine is complete. You can get used LT1 and tpi systems with teh computers for a reasonable price on eay.

Keep us in the loop with your project. Remember cnc-motorsports.com has awesome prices

 

Awesome, ill check out their website forsure!

The engine i have now is an LB9, but i have found an amazing deal on an LT1.

Im doing some reasearch on the LT1, that at the moment seems like the way to go, to get the most power, pass emissions, and retain good drivability.

Ill keep you guys updated

Sheldon

 

In your situation a LT1 based motor would be a good way to go. The LT1 has loads of performance potential beyond the stock 300net hp.
maybe a LT4 hot cam, home ported LT1 heads, smog legal headers, custom tuned,EFI chip High stall converter, custom exhaust. Easy 12's. easy 11's with
a 150hp nitrous system and sticky rear tires.

 

Bringing this thread back from the dead because i finally built a motor to reach my goal.

'03 5.3L Block
-Mahle Hypereutectic pistons
-OEM Rods
-OEM Crank
-ARP Rod bolts
-Mild ported 706 heads
-LS6 intake
-Thunder racing TR230 cam
-Comp 918 springs

Bought the hedman headers, and i made a custom y for my auto, then converted to 6spd, so ill be making another one.

Car should run low 12's, and im planning on shooting it into the 10's (150 shot)

Just thought id update

 

that car depending on your weight and tranny/stall, you could be high 11's and then maybe get 10's with the 150 shot