i had the cam swaped and carb swap as well.
the oil pressure is usually about 30 when cold then 15 when is warmed up.
but now when it warms up its right on the line with the red mark.
when it gets that low the car just wants to die at idle unless i press the gas.

 

The Fuel Pump Switch will only cause a shutdown if the Fuel Pump relay isn't working and, or the ECM isn't controlling it and the oil pressure is less than 4psi. You should have about 10psi/1000rpm.
Use a manual psi gage to check the actual pressure, you can Tee into the Fuel Pump Switch just above the oil filter.

Or, at the oil pressure sender next to distributor top LH side of engine, but not easily accessible.

Here's an article I read before building my stroker several years ago.
Oil Pumps & Engine Lubrication
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/us020516.htm

 

Have you replaced the sensor yet? If the sensor is bad, that WILL happen. I had the same problem with my RS.

 

There are 2 problems with this car:
1. Low oil Pressure
2. Stalling
The fuel sender can't cause either one because it's not used to control anything, and the ECM doesn't receive a signal from it, it just sends a signal to the oil pressure gage as the sensor name implies, "sender."

The Fuel Pump Switch, and Fuel Pump Relay can only cause stalling conditionally because (they are switches; one mechanical, the other electronic,) that is if the relay is not energized by the ECM and the oil pressure goes below 4psi it will shutdown whatever is connected (MAF Relay & Fuel Pump) to it, and then power them up again once the oil pressure goes back up with rpms as when he, "press the gas" to keep it from dying.

I believe all thirdgens are wired per the attached diagram.
The "power at all times" 20 amp inline fuse power is routed through both the Fuel pump switch and the Fuel pump relay in parallel to the fuel pump so both would have to fail together for the fuel pump to shutdown.

 

so pretty much how do i raise my oil pressure or keep it from dropping?

 

Three things could be wrong........

1. your oil pressure sending unit is bad
2. when your cam swap happened debris got in there and clogged the oil pump....that will cause a drop in pressure..... replace that next.

3. this would totally suck for you........but if you bearing clearances arent right that could be causing it....or there could be too much end play in the cam...basically too much clearance anywhere between two lubricated internal surfaces.

whats your cam set up?........did you just pull out the old cam and put a new one in?.........did you change anything on the valve train? Are you using a different style of lifter than before (or even a whole lot more lift cam)? Some style lifters bleed off oil pressure with high lift cams if the oiling groove in the lifter becomes uncovered during it's movement. Just a thought......it might just be that your cam is too radical for your set up. and you need to upgrade some surroundings. but i would start with the smaller stuff

 

So have you tested the oil pressure with a mechanical gage at idle, 1000, 2000 and 3000 rpm? You really need to do that beforing doing anything else.
From your reply above it's seems the pressure is below normal, is that true?
The simple answer would be that the carb wasn't setup properly, low oil pressure is a symptom of the decreasing idle not the cause of it.
I'd check for vacuum leaks.
Once you fix the idle problem you may find that you really don't have an oil pressure problem.
If it's still loosing pressure drain the oil, change the filter, and fill it with Shell Rotella T Diesel oil and some GM EOS (engine oil supplement.) The Rotella helps prevent a loss of oil thickness caused by regular wear on the engine and maintains a consistent thickness throughout the maintenance interval.
Cut open the old filter and inspect it.

 

well i changed the oil with sae 50. i'll try what you suggested. the pressure is good when it's cold it's just after some driving it drops way below normal. i took my car to my normal mechanics to check it. and pretty much i think i need to find another mechanic. cause they are the ones i had to double check the swap and everything. but they just told me it sounds like a spun bearing. but i'll go ahead and get the mechanical gauge and the diesel oil. and check for myself.

 

Have you replaced the sender yet?

 

wouldnt a spun main increase oil pressure as it would probably block the oil hole?

 

Well you were ahead of me on using a higher vicousity oil, that's the reason I suggested the Rotella that way you wouldn't need to change back to 5, or 10w30 if there was no indication of excessive wear.
Tell me you inspected the filter? if the bearing has recently spun it may not be audible, but fine metal particle should be trapped in the filter.
Eventually it'll start and idle OK, but after about 10 or so minutes after it warms up the oil pressure will start to drop and you'll hear the old knock knock joke, but in this case it ain't no laughing matter.
Since you didn't mention any knocking noise, or the car's mileage, the stalling seemed to be a higher priority at the moment, so I put that on the back burner until you reported on the filter inspection.

 

i have the new sender. put i haven't had time to but it on.and now the exhaust gasket went out so i have a bad exhaust leak to go with all the other stuff. so this weekend is going to be fun of trying to find any vaccum leaks in the carb, fix the exhaust leak, and then find out if there is anything in the oil filter. i think i'll try the 60 sae just to see. if it's a spun bearing i'm getting a 350.