This is the first time replacing these. If anyone could help. maybe a step by step....I know the obvious, but do I need any special tools???

 

Do a search, there have been numerous threads showing a complete step by step with pictures.

 

It also depends on weather you are keeping the heads on or taking them off. In my experience, it takes about the same amount of time for both, but I always have an easier time with the heads off. Its also a good time to do any headwork, like a seat job or porting. If you keep them on the engine however, I would strongly suggest using an air compressor and spark plug fitting to hold the valves in place as opposed to the "rope" method. Hope this helps,

 

-valve spring compressor (screw type)
-rope, or better yet an air supply with spark plug adapter
-spark plug wrench
-rags to block the oil drain passages
-a magnet helps to catch the locks when they fly off
-possibly pliers
-socket & wrench to get the valve cover off, lol
-big freakin' wrench to turn the engine over
-bandaids

 

Use umbrella type seals for all valves.
o-ring type seals on exhaust are #$%*&^.
those are the first ones to go anyway.
Never did understand why o-ring type seals were ever used in the first place.

 

Thanks for all the help!! I think I'm going to take off the heads,it sounds a lot easier....

 

Don't take off the heads. The only time you'd want to do it with the heads off is if they're already off.

 

Apeiron has a point- if changing the valve seals is all you are going for, its better to leave them on. However, if you also want to freshen up the heads and replace the head gaskets, its a fine time to do so. I say its more difficult and more time consuming with them on there because you have to bring each cyl. to TDC to change the valve seals using the rope method. I don't know how easy it is to get at your crank, but mine has all sorts of nasty sharp things around it, and I can only do it from the top unless I want the car on stands. My guess is that if the valve seals are going out, it's not too bad of a guess that some other components you have to remove to take the heads off need some work as well. Save some time and do it all at once if you can. Hope this helps,

 

Use the starter to rotate the engine and you don't need to worry about sharp things around the crank.

 

That takes the fun out of it. Who wants to work smarter when they can work harder???

Just remember to unplug the coil wire first, and make sure you have a good battery (I dont, hence the manual turning...)

 

I found it harder to use the starter reliably. I kept overshooting. I just had a 17 mm (I think) nut on the alternator pulley, and turned it that way. nice and easy, no sharp stuff around there. I did have to help the belt along a little, it slipped a bit. And believe me, air is way better than rope.


Oh, and on #7 you may have to bend a steel line out of the way. I did. Not a big deal, but don't think there's something wrong if you do.

 

It doesn't matter if you overshoot, you only need to be near TDC, not right at it.

Rope is fine, but you can get an air holder for about $3, and even if you don't have an air compressor you could probably rent a small one for about $10.