Im installing a new lunati cam & lifter kit, and I read of the forum somewhere not to get the lube on the side of the lifters and the face that contacts the cam only. However I coated the sides as well before i dropped them in. Should I pull them out and clean the sides & dip in EOS prior to break in or does it really matter? I know the lifters need to spin in the bore, will the cam break in lube on the side prevent them from spinning?

 

cam breakin lube on the bottom of the lifters, and cam lobes. Sides of the lifters? No, engine oil is fine there. It'll probably leak down all over the place anyway.
I wouldn't get too worked up about it. You'll probably be fine. Which cam?

 

its a flat tappet, lunati voodoo 60101, 213/219 @ 050 .454/.468

 

make sure to use rotella T shell oil for break-in or purchase GM EOS additive or you'll eat a lobe.

 

I'm partial to the grey moly paste that Crane recommends with their cams. The red stuff assembly lube works fine, too. BUT if you have some time between engine build and first fire, it runs off the parts. The red stuff is more like oil- it will eventually run and drip off the parts. The grey moly paste is a grease- it'll stay put just about forever. Just a personal preference.

 

I just used the lube that came with the cam, I beleive its a moly base. I installed the cam a few days ago and hopefully it will stay put before i break it in. I've got shell rotella T sae 30 and two bottles of the EOS.

 

you don't need to use the Rotella and EOS, one or the other.

 

as long as it's the rotella for diesels then both is not needed, the other day I noticed the GL-4 compliance rating on shell bottles, or whatever the new rating that takes out those additives for "modern" vehicles, so just take that into account.

 

Personally I would pull the lifters and clean the paste off of the sides. It can prevent them from spinning and if it does. . . (it gets ugly). Use oil on the sides and paste on the bottoms. A dab of paste on each end of the push rod is also OK.

RBob.

 

On diesel (API Cx) rated oil?

 

yes the bottle had a blue label IIRC and said "for modern diesel oils" or something to that effect on it. The stuff I normally buy still had the black stripe on the label like always.

 

yeah five7 wait till you see the new diesels running CATs and ethenol in the fuel... that stuff is great lets waste twice as much fuel then before but 10% of that was made from corn so its all good

 

You sure it wasn't "API CJ-4"? That's a diesel ("C"ompression ignition) designation. GF-4 is a ILSAC requirement for gasoline engines.
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My '95 Silverado 6.5l turbo diesel has a cat.

 

no i mean like Mac trucks and 10 wheel dumps kind of thing not passenger vehicals

 

Well I already got the EOS so would it be overkill to mix it in? On the Rotella bottle it just says Heavy Duty SAE 30, Meets API Service CF-4, CF-2, CF/SJ. I dont see anything relating to the GL-4. And it lists a bunch of diesel motors its good for such as Caterpiller TO-2, Allison C-4, Case, John Deere...etc and its got the blue label. So im hoping this is the right stuff.

 

That's the right stuff. I've never used EOS, so I can't comment one way or the other about it.

After the break-in, continue to use a diesel oil that is also rated for gasoline (API SJ or higher). That will give you the extra antiwear additives the flat tappets need. My personal choice is AMSOIL 5W-30 Series 3000 heavy duty diesel oil, which has an SL rating.

Just avoid any oil that has a GF-4 rating on it unless you use an additive such as EOS - and again, I don't have any personal experience with it to give an up or down recommendation, just what I've heard others say about it. Makes more sense to me to just use a diesel/gas synthetic as in the paragraph above.

 

Sounds good, thanks for the help fellas!

 

Bringing this back to add some newly aquired information.

From AMSOIL's TSB MO-2006-10-26:
"For all new or rebuilt engines with flat tappets, proper assembly lubes and oil additives should be used during the break-in phase. These additives provide extra protection at the point of contact, helping the flat tappet face to properly mate with the cam lobe. Once the break-in phase is over, these additives should not be used. This includes the GM product E.O.S., which is an assembly lubricant only and is not to be used, as the label clearly states, as an engine oil additive." {emphasis added}

They also said the GF-4 testing was done with flat tappet engines. Interesting. However, warned that use of higher spring forces in high performance engines requires additional consideration for flat tappet wear. Zinc & phosphorus are two available antiwear additives, but not necessarily the only ones. They recommended their 20W-50 racing oil, and 3 different diesel oils for high performance flat tappet applications - didn't mention the 5W-30 I'm using in the TSB, but their tech department had told me it was fine for what I'm doing.

For what that's all worth. Mostly wanted to communicate the part about not using EOS as an oil additive - just use it for a break-in additive.

 

The break in was successfull! I just wanted to give everyone a big for all the help.

Five7Kid: I know your from CO as well and I was just wondering if theres anywhere locally to get the amsoil you mentioned, or do you just order it online? Also would you recomend running the amsoil engine flush prior to switching over?

 

PM sent.

I'd recommend using the flush before switching over. Helps get things clean before you put in the synthetic, which is going to clean whatever's in there, which will contaminate the oil quicker. Not necessary if the engine doesn't have that many miles on it since new or rebuilt.