same here, my guess is rough based on what i have seen other cars do. i just know if it is tuned well and works together well it will be stupid fast.

 

Amen, I thought about going S/C on this motor I'm building, and actually probably could've made the same hp for about the same money, but I have to keep the consistency thing in mind for racing. Someday I'd love to build a stupid car, something I could care less if the 60's varied per pass, so long as it was stupid fast once she was up and running LOL!! There's a black 66' chevy II station wagon out here, he's had about every kind of pwr adder possible and his thing is sticking it on a 9" slick. Last year when I saw him, the car idled up to the line like a stocker (I thought his wife was driving and he put a plain motor in it) car took off slower than dirt, then about the 330' you see it coming on, and coming on strong....ran a 15.?? at 150mph LMFAO!!!

 

lol thast what i'm talkin about! there was a guy on here that posted a vid of his huge vortec blown formula or TA that did a soft rolling start and floored it to run a 9.xx at 165!! just incredible how quick it was!!


i think for any hp level above 400whp, blown is best for streetability but can be consistant if built right. u just cant beat a boosted car. for 500whp that is cake with a blower.

 

once i get it all built, i am aiming for the 400hp soon on motor, then either a fogger system or a single turbo application

 

well thanks everyone for posting, this thread help me decide on my motor. but i got bad news. well to day my boss made me a propostion, he has a 01 gmc shortbed 1500 that had a 5.3 which he pulled out and put a 6.0l block in and patriot heads with a lunati cams, along with 4.10s a tune etc etc and broke him into the 11's well, he offer to sell me his 5.3 block which has been bored .40 over i think and fully machined for 500 dollars. so i figured i whold get it ands put a ls1 bottom end in it and some ls1 heads from around our shop get them ported and maybe a mean cam. and drop it into the maro. how does this sound?? or should i just contiue on my quest for a 383??

 

anyone

 

I didnt think they could bore the 5.3s that far over. A lot of work for a 5.3. A lot of money involved too. If i were gonna drop the cash on an LSx based swap, it would be a 6.0

 

i'd shoot for a 6 liter too as theyc an be had for near the same price... then u can use the 4inch bore and go with L76/L92 heads/intake setup for a SICK motor

but the 5.3 is a stout piece...just like a LS1 but a tad smaller.. should make 400whp with a nice cam and head work.

 

I agree, the 5.3 is a nice engine, i have driven some some chevy pickups that had a lot of *****. I just couldnt see going through the expense of the swap and all the work for a 5.3

 

I can understand wanting a faster car. I had a fat girl, eating a twinkie blow by me in a supra. Wrecked my weekend. I am currently(as we speak) having a 350 installed. Bored, ported, polished, 750 holley carb, header, cam .505 dur and daul exhaust. It is being built by a drag racer. 2500 stall converter, 350 trans with shift kit. Losing od but it is just to roll around in. I am going to stomp twinkie eating fat girls driving supras. Funny it is a definite sleeper. Builder said should push over 400hp.

 

i figure i whould wake this back up, but i thought about just honeing my 350 and dropin like a scat steel crank and gm pink rods with some speed pro pistons. then maybe some afr 180 street heads, not sure on cam but do u think stock 350 bore and stroke can make high 400 low 500 hp range

 

with good heads and a nice cam, high 400s can be reached... just keep the compression up some as well. i'd go for 195 heads if you go AFR. that thing will need to rev to 6500 or so to make that power. stock Lt1's will make near 400whp or near 475-485 crank hp with a big cam and ported out heads. revs to 6800

 

i was readin that to. how are these lt1 makin so much power. its gotta be in the intake. i was thinkin about doin a lt1 swap my self, but chouldn't i just put lt1 heads and intake and maybe a lt4 hot cam on my 350. and do away with opti spark, i mean its the only thing that makes a lt1 a lt1 right? is the heads/intake and the reverseflow and opti???

 

is the block in our camaro the same as the lt1?? what about bore and stroke??

 

Gen. II blocks are reverse cooling.

 

the only thing is the block i have has no caps. whouldnt i have to line bore the block to get it right? i wanna avoid the machine shop totally and do it all in my garage. should i just chunk this block and go buy a 400 or another 350 block with caps?

 

Yes, you'd need to machine the block with new caps. You might be better off finding another block.

 

if you dont want to go to the machine shop, junk it and buy a new one.. might as well get a 400 while you're at it..

 

awesome. well im headed to second hand power in a couple of weeks to get my new 400 block, he had one up there that was a 400 bored 30 over and splayed caps, but he wanted 950!! for it which is more than i want to spend. after i buy this block u think i should get it checked for cracks? or take the owner word he a really respected guy around here and well know at the local track??

 

regular brand new 350 blocks are in the $750 range with 4bolt mains but minus the splayed caps.. so i'd say the splayed cap 350 blocks must be around 900.. but thats just basic replacement blocks.. hi-perf blocks go up past $1500

if you trust the guy, buy it.. i would

 

quick check that it is a 400 3 freeze plugs on the side of the block not 2 like the 350

 

Except for the thousands of 400 blocks with 2 freeze plugs.

 

really?

never seen one only seen them with 3 plugs

will have to start actually looking at casting numbers again...

 

You should really do more research on this subject. It sounds like your head-hunting power ranges with current info that being talked about through this board. Please don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to be a jerk but be sure your engine combo works well together. If +500 hp is your goal with an auto tranny, then try this combo.

400 block splayed 4 bolt mains (2 bolt orig)
Can't think of a good rod lenght & compression height right now
(depends on exactly knowing what you want)
350 forged crank
230 cc AFR heads port matched to...
ported Miniram port matched to...
1000CFM oval TB
36lbs hi inp injectors
Stand-alone ECU
A rediculous cam
Solid roller cam system with pro assembly
3000 stall

For starters. Why a 400 SBC with a 350 crank? 378CI? If you want high horsepower numbers, than you need an engine that will rev high to like 7000 to 8000 RPM. You gotta think of the dynamics of these motors. A long stroked motor like a 383 is damn good as long as you don't start hitting higher revs because piston speed becomes a downfall.

Big bore + Short Stroke = Higher HP vs TQ
Long Stroke + Small Bore = Higher TQ vs HP
This does not mean that if you have an engine with a long stroke and small bore, the TQ WILL BE HIGHER. I means that from a mechanical stand-point, if set-up right this motor will produce a better TQ band.
Lots to read & it never ends

 

Airflow becomes a restriction long before piston speed.

 

For sure Apeiron. I'm just stating that displacement, cam, intake and heads are not your only avenues to gain your desired target numbers. There is power to be made in the short-block too! Wouldn't you agree?

 

Not so much.

 

were did u get a 350 crank from?? 500hp was just a ballpark number from the start. my true goal whould be to run 11's even if it with nitrous. what ever power it must take. im just tryin to post and learn before i buy a bunch of parts that aint worth diddle squat. but im not tryin to have a high rev track burner, i want a street/strip motor that can run 11's and still take crusin on the weekends

 

Well if nitrous isn't going to be a problem and a steet/strip setup is to your favour, I can see two good options. A strong built 350 with all A/M bolt-ons pushing around +430hp with a nice 150 wet shot or a 383 stroker with a good set of parts. I'd go 350 just to save alittle on the gas and tires