ok so my car seems to not like anything over 3/4 throttle, if i floor it it will sputter and bog until i let out to liek 75%. i'm guessing its a carb issue so what do you think, is it to rich, seconaries opening too quickly and not getting enough fuel? i have no idea how to work on a CCC so any help would be appretiated, i'm kinda just thinking about ditching the quadrajunk but thats more money, i could get a rebuilt one for around 100-150 with a core.

i just wanna be able to floor it instead of rolling on the throttle to get r goin. it drives just fine normaly around town like a civilized car but once i want to punch it the thing acts like theres two mice on a wheel tripping over the dead third one, thank god 305's make what little power they got down low

 

Sounds like you aren't getting enough fuel. Check your fuel filter, if that doesn't work, then up the pressure of fuel to your car. Does your choke work?

 

Have you posted about this problem before?

This is a stock 305 LG4 right? Shouldn't need anything other than stock stuff (settings and parts) to get it running just right.
Fuel filter is a good first thing to check, but usually the quadrabog is caused by the air valve tension, and only the air valve tension. Know what it's set at?

 

well i just changed the fuel filter a week ago since i knew it was toast after running through a full tank of 4 year old gas.

and i do think it could verry well be the air valve tension after searching around the site, i just dont know how the heck to adjust it, i guess i will break open the chiltons manual and hope they have something, i personaly have never tuched the settings on the carb but the previous owner may have. do you know what it should be set at?

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/quadrajet

About 3/4 of a turn with the flat blade screwdriver, then lock it there with the allen key.

 

sweet deal i tightened it up and i can floor it now without fear. now i'm gonna rip the interior and junk outa my car and see how much faster it is, just taking the iron head and the system outa the trunk should so alot lol

 

ok we have a problem, now my car is bogging and studdering at liek 1/4 throttle and wants to stall. so i have to either give it just a little bit of throttle or 1/2-3/4 just to drive around.

even worse is that trying to drive home from school i decided to leave it in second to bring the rpms up then shift into od once i got up to speed, and BAM! right on the side street was a cop, i was at the top of second gear and with a borla exhaust thats not the best thing to be doing by a cop in a 35mph zone. well i shift into od and am slowing down and looking in my rear view just waiting to see him pull out. but he didnt so i was like sweet i have enough time to get lost through the nearest neighborhood, well my car had other ideas, it sputtered and boged so i just made it half way into the neighborhood to my friends house before the cop apeared behinde me with his lights on.

so i got a warning for "speeding" since i wouldn't say how fast i was going and he didn't know. so i guess its not that bad but it sure was embaressing almost stalling out pulling away from him then punching it and then studdering back to normal. i hate q-jets

so now i'm gonna go back the screw off a few turns. i would rather not have 3/4 + throttle then have non.

 

1/4 throttle wouldn't be engaging your secondaries at all, so that's not the problem. Your pump shot might be covering up a lean issue on the primaries or something.
Try using a piece of 18AWG wire, and wrapping it around your secondary lockout tang, to force it to stay up, and lock out the secondary throttles completely. Drive it around, it should be slow, but no bogs or anything. Just like you have a very plugged air cleaner, just weak. But smooth. If it isn't, then you have a problem on your primaries. If it's smooth and slow, then you're right, it's your secondaries.

Assuming it's your primaries, it's a CC related problem i'd guess, and that's where my help ends.

 

ok so i tied off the secondaries and it did the same thing. so then i checked my timing and it was off so i set it back to 6 degrees. tried it again and it seemed a little better but still not right. then i tried it with the secondaries and it got better, but still not right. so now its just like a bog at 1/4 throttle and then again at full throttle.

i just dont get it, it almost seems as if its not getting enough fuel but i dont know how i'm supposed to tell. its a mechanical fuel pump and a new fuel filter that i just replaced a few weeks ago. the only things that i adjusted were the spring tension for the secondaries as you instructed and it worked ok, and i just switched from running 93 octane to 91 octane and that shouldn't make a difference like that, so i'm stumped. i'm not gonna drive it tommarrow so i can tackle it when i get home from school. i'll check the filter the lines the pump, anything else i can find in the area to check out. this sucks. i can just give it 3/4 throttle everywhere but i dont wanna have another run in with the police...

 

Wait, it worked before right? If you can go from a dead stop, up to highway speed at WOT, then your fuel pump and filter are ok.
If you tie off your secondaries and get a bog, you've got a problem that isn't related to the secondaries. Go one step at a time or else you'll get super confused. With secondaries locked out, you should be able to drive around perfectly smoothly. Adding in the secondaries should only increase the power at above 2/3 throttle. That's it. (ideally).

I would say something about your lean stop on your primary rods, but you have a cc-qjet. I'm not sure about the MCS and TPS, but that might be something to look into. Where are the cc-qjet experts?

 

I had a bog, fixed it by increasing the fuel shot when you slam the throttle (cripes I forgot the name)...but it was on my TBI, same concept though.

 

well first i adjusted the timeing back to stock specs.
results better but still running rough

next i tied of the secondaries and it still did not run right a little better than before but not much (and my car felt just as fast on just the primeries as it did on all four wierd)

then i decided to run it with the primeries engaged too and it felt better but still not completly right, so i think its lean but i'm no expert.

 

By running a full tank of 4-year-old gas through it, you very well may have messed up the carb internals. That stuff is typically pretty gummy, often with flakes of debris, and degrades soft parts, none of which is good for the carb.

If the fuel filter clogged up, it will "by-pass" and allow unfiltered fuel into the carb.

You may be able to clear it up with agressive fuel additives, but don't be surprised if you need to pull the carb apart to put a kit in it and clean it up.

Old gas isn't good for fuel pumps, either.

 

ouch that sucks. i can get a rebuilt carb for like 100 bucks so i might just end up doing that but i'll see what the auto parts store has as far as fuel cleaner, and i have another used fuel pump too so i guess i might try that next.

 

BIG UPDATE!

ok so i went for a spin around the block to see if my car would be up to going and picking up my longtubes but no it was shitty as hell.

then i checked the timeing again and it was at like 4 degrees when it should be at 6.

then i relized i didn't dissconnect the 4 wire plug from the distributor befrore i checked it.

so i went back to dissconect it, and as i tuched it the motor change pitch!

so i start pokeing it and the motor is changing pitch whenever i do it.

so then i figure ok this is a problem its changeing the timeing every time this thing jiggles around.

so i dissconneted it and checked the timeing and it was at 6.

so then i set it up to 10 since i figured that the 87 motor is more high performance than the stock 84 lg4 would be, so after asking a friend and being told about how his 89 l98 runs at 12 i decided 9-10 would be ideal for me.

i then tightened the distributor back down and reved it and it perforemed beautifly.

i left the plug dissconnected and it reved freely, it felt very strong, like i have never felt it before.

but can this be good? to run it liek that without the plug connected? dosent that control the timing advance for diffrent rpm's?

i havent tested it out under load yet because i dont know if its safe to do so but if if anybody knows please share because i would love to test it out to see if thats the only problem.

 

How much is '84 and how much is '87?

'87 would have a knock sensor, '84 didn't. If you're running parts of the '87 system and parts of the '84 system, you might be getting incompatibilities that are causing problems.

There is only a small amount of ignition advance built into the ignition module when the wire is disconnected. If it actually retards when connected, you've got a problem.

 

pretty much its all the 84 wireing and carb and everything just on the 87 motor.

and it seems to run great with the wire dissconected but i have not driven it yet liek that, only reving it in the driveway.



edit*

just took it for a ride without the wire connected and it was nice and smooth except for at full throttle it still hesitates but at least now i can drive it without it wanting to stall but i need to figuer out what side of that connector is messed up. the distributor side or the wiring harness side. then i can fix it and then adress the bog once again since it still dosent like full throttle.

maybe it has something to do with the code 34 my ses light is showing me, and i have a vacum problem somwhere thats doing that???

 

Well, that's the first mention of a SES light that I recall. Kinda important info to have.

The MAP info is used by the computer to determine timing advance. You need to get that working (although I would expect low vacuum with the symptoms you describe).

 

well then what do you sujest i try as far as fixing the map sensor? just replace it? replace vacuum tubeing? i dont even know where the map sensor is on my car now that i think about it.

 

It's on the firewall on the driver's side. It is fed by a small plastic vacuum line from the back of the carb (bundled with a wiring harness, IIRC). The MAP sensor itself looks the same on the outside as the barometric sensor mounted by the AC housing which should not have a vacuum line attached to it (originally had a foam block on the nipple, the foam usually deteriorates away and people see the nipple and think a vacuum line needs to go on it).

Start by making sure those two sensors are properly attached.

 

i think i know what your talking about for the map sensor i'll have to look tommarrow.

and the barometric sensor i know of too, actualy the baro is hooked op to a vacuum line right now, because my dad didnt belive me that it shouldnt be, he said obviously something goes there, and theres a vacuum line right below it so it must belong on it. now i can rip that off.

if the map sensor is not attached to a line can i just attach any vacuum line to it or does it have to go somwhere speific?