I broke my motor in last week and i had coolent bubbling out of my head studs. My engine builder told me to use barsleak or alumaseal to seal up the leaks and retorque the heads studs to 65lbs after some run time. Is it nessesary to retorque the studs?

 

did you use thread sealant on the bolts initially? I always use teflon paste for just this reason.

 

No i dont remember putting anything on the threads. I did use something under the washer and cap, it is a gray color but i cant remember what it was he had me use. Do you ever retourque your studs?

 

Head studs ALWAYS leak. It's too bad that so many people who really don't need them, get talked into buying them somehow; and then get this privelege.

It's really too late to take the studs out and put Teflon sealer on the threads; but you CAN take the nuts off one at a time, clean the nut & washer in lacquer thinner, spray the stud with carb cleaner, and put the Teflon thread sealer on those threads; put some under the washer, and between the nut and the washer, as well.

Next time, use bolts. They're ALOT less trouble.

 

Head studs are always a pain. I have them on my engine just because of the high compression I run. I don't have a problem of them leaking because my Dart block has blind holes for all the head bolts. None go into a coolant passage.

Normally to remove a head with studs, people just take the nuts off and pull the head off the studs. Unless you have a dragster or a very open engine compartment, this normally isn't possible. Even when I pull my heads, I pull all the studs out before pulling a head. The studs should not be torqued into the head. My ARP studs have an allen key hole in the top of them. I just tighten them until they are slightly snug. The holding force is from the nut on the head not the twisting torque of the stud going into the block.

Because you don't torque the studs into the block, sealing the threads can be troublesome. A moly lube or engine oil isn't required because they are not torqued into the head but a good thread sealant needs to be used on blocks that have the head bolts going into a coolant passage. PST pipe dope or teflon tape normally works best. I don't like using tape myself. To hard to clean out.

 

yup, just had the head stud problem.. leak, leak, leak.. but now, its FIXED!!! had to trash my steel shim gaskets.. went with regular gaskets and went back down on compression.. 11.2 back to 10.5... ouch.. but now i can run 89 octane!!! dont worry, AL heads, and huge cam..

 

I pulled the heads off mine to fix a leaky stud (plus bump the compression up). Sealed them all up with the teflon paste and put it back together. Well what do you know, the same head stud sprung a leak again! I had some bars stop leak in there from before and I guess it's worked it's magic again, it's not leaking anymore.

 

I assume you mean they shouldn't be torqued into the block.

 

typo error but you knew what I meant. My long responses usually have lots of mistakes but I catch most of them before hitting the submit button.

The bairn has an azamnig atbliiy to see wrdos eevn if tehy mkae no snsee.