I replaced the IAC and TPS recently and put on SLP runners. Now the thing runs like it's a 4 cilinder. I am having a hard time adjusting the IAC.
I pulled off the ingetor plug on the driver side and the car ran worse, so that means to me like those are working. I pulled off all the top parts of the injectors for the passenger side and the motor did not run any different. It seems like it is choking and not getting enough something. I also tried to adjust the trans cable and that made the car loose its power when you hit the accelerator, it does not do the normal down shift. Do you think the injectors are bad all asudden. or do you think it is the IAC. I am ready shoot the car, please help.

 

sounds to me like you screwed something up when you took off the "top parts of the injectors".... the IAC wouldnt cause one bank to stop firing nor the tps... so what did you touch when you put the slp runners on? and what did you adjust in the process

 

See if the INJ 1 fuse is blown in the fuse block. I think those are the right bank. there are two fuses that supply power to the injectors

 

you think he started pulling connectors while the car was running?... interesting...

 

I only took of the top parts today to test the injectors.only the injectors on the pass. side don't work. I never took them off when I put on the runners. I did put on a new IAC today. will that affect the injectors to have 4 go bad at once.
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was that a bad idea

 

The injectors likely are fine. It sounds like they either dont have the constant +12 volts, or there is a break on the negatively switched side.

 

nope, the fuses are fine? if those are the two fuses in the fuse block that say injector 1 and injector 2 with a fuse for each of those(two total). they are #10 fuse and they are fine. and the car runns like cr_p still.
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what do you mean? how do I check the neg switch side and for constant 12 + for the pass. side.

 

Using a volt meter, one pin in each injector connector should have +12 volts at all times with respect to ground. The ECM switches the injectors on the negative side (other pin in each connector). If there is a break on the negative side, the injectors wont fire.

Do you have a 'noid light? Hook one up and see if you get anything out of it at all while cranking.
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Tinkering with the TV cable will trash the trans. With the throttle all the way open, the cable should have no slack in it when you press on the actual cable itself. If it does, the cable needs to be re-adjusted.

 

The 12V side should be the pink/black wire

 

I will check the voltage will a regular ohm meter work ? and fior the tv cable, will the cable be very firm or just no slack?

 

I checked it and nothing , but this was with just the ignition in the on position. Does the car have to be running for this to work?

 

I think so ...if the car see's no oil preasure , the injectors will not fire. Correct me if I am wrong though . Did you ohm out the injectors ? Are they in spec ? I am just tossing in other free stuff you can check out .

 

keep the reply and ideas comming guys, i need all the help. I am going to one of those weekend marriage seminars. it is going hard for me to keep my mind off this car. i will be able to tinker more with the car on tuesday. fix Marriage first then fix car... right guys! thanks and I appreciated all the help and I want to thank you ahead of time for the new replys that i will reply back to on monday. God bless had have fun racing this weekend, I will be doing other things.

 

Should be firm. Set it by holding the throttle all the way open. Press the 'D' shaped metal tab and pull the cable housing toward the firewall firmly. Release the tab and throttle. Open the throttle all the way back up and make sure teh cable is taught and that it doesnt ratchet back out. Sometimes the plastic TV cable clip will break due to age when you reset the tension. New ones can be had from most trans shops for about $5 and install easily.
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They should be energized with or without the engine running.

 

With the key in the run position you should have voltage on atleast one of the wires at the injector plug. (if the other injectors on that side are plugged in you will have voltage on both wires since the injectors are in parallel and the ECM hasn't provided a negative) If you do not have voltage that will light a testlight, stop and trace the pink/black wire back to the fuse (INJ1 or INJ2). The fuses go hot at key on.
Also, if you changed the TPS, it has to be calibrated.
p.s.hopefully the marriage counseler won't say the problem is that "damn car"