I currently have a 406 SBC with a Cola crank, stock rods, SRP pistons, Hydraulic roller(dont know specs) brodix Aluminum track 1 heads poted and polished etc. I bought this motor already built just to swap out the 305 the car used to have.


The car isnt as fast as I want it to be (mid 12's.) I want to build this 406 to make 600 Flywheel HP or more. I am unsure of what combo will make this power. I dont want to just go to a machinest and say I want this HP etc and have it dynoed and only make 500 or 550 HP.

What ever knowledge you guys have im open to ideas. I know compression makes power and would think 12 or 13:1.1 would be a good start. I have 10,000 to work with and want to do this once. Any input is appreciated.

NA, FI, or N2O?

How long do you want it to live?

Street driven at all, or pure drag race or...?
Willing to do a blower? Or stick with NA?

I want the motor to be N/A. I would like the motor to last a few years depending on how I drive it before a re fresh.
The car wouldnt be a daily driver or a cruiser, It would see the street 80% of its life. It would be strickly a race car.

Building a 600HP 406 shouldn't be too hard and I think you can accomplish your goal with 11:1-11.5:1 compression so you can use pump gas. Using race gas on a car that will see any street time is a huge pain and is expensive. I'd definitely make it a pump gas car unless you have a trailer and the car won't see any street time. With that much power I wouldn't use stock rods, you might get away with it for awhile but its asking for trouble. I'd use forged pistons, rods, and crank..hopefully the parts you have already are forged. Sounds like you already have a nice set of heads, I would look them over and make sure they are fully ported if not get a full race port job done on them. I wouldn't compromise on the heads, great flowing heads help build power without sacrificing drivability. Solid roller is by far the best choice in your application, I'd get a cam similar to what I have in mine if you go with 11:1 compression...go with a bigger cam if you are going to go with higher compression and race gas. And of course a Vic. Jr. intake and 850-950DP carb. Check out the combination in my signature its a 383 but the same combo would work even better in a 406. My combo runs well at the track and is surprisingly street friendly.

I'm planning on going with the best, fully forged bottom end etc. I have 10K that I plan on using to build the motor. The heads were just ported polished,new valves,springs etc last fall. The heads are ready to go. The car wont be a trailer queen, I would like to go to local shows, meets etc. For the power Im expecting I was thinking on the higher compression side. I would like to run pump gas and still be able to drive the car without burning $5.00 worth of 110 every 20 miles or so.

be careful here or thats exactly what you will create. 11.5.1 is all you should use to keep 93 octane. any more compression you will be into mixing your gasoline.

I hope the rest of drivetrain is sufficient.

I am currently working on a similar project as yourself. You need to plan this from the engine all the way to the rearend and suspension. As nothing stock will hold up to that power level. I am using a dart block with all forged internals, including h-beam rods in a 427 ci rotating assembly. The more the cubic inch, the more streetable the combination will be at 600 hp. Cylinder heads are key. Solid roller is the way to go while sparing no expense on lifters, springs, and rocker arms. I am using T&D shaft rockers with the spring oiler option for extended spring life. You will need to step up to a super victor manifold and a true 850 or better cfm carbutetor. I say true 850 because a holley 950 hp is actually a 750 main body with an 850 baseplate. The only Holley to use is the 1000 hp(which is the same as the 850 with milled horn and smoothed entries), or switch to a mighty demon 850. They flow like the 1000 hp holley at a much better price. Transmission and rearend has to be addressed also. I will be using a rockland gear prepped retro t56 6 speed, good for 750 lbs/ft, and a 12 bolt or 9 inch(haven't decided yet).
Compression ratio is a whole animal in itself. It has to be matched to the cam timing properly. Static CR must be based off of when your intake valve closes(abdc). Or you will run into detonation. If you would like to talk, give me a call, as I am very knowledgeable on engine building and cylinder head tech stuff. ARN 740-323-3591

www.atwoodperformance.com

Yes the drivetrain consists of a Strange 12 bolt, 400 trans, tubular LCA's, k member, A arms, lower control arms, panhard bar, QA1's all around. The suspension is set.
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Thanks for the offer, I will give you a ring in the afternoon after work about 5.

I run a 406 has 13:6.1 Brodix 11 X heads a 950 hp carb. had it on the Dyno the other day with the new headers 484 Hp to the rear wheels car has run a best of a 10.20 in 90 deg air

Thats about 600 flywheel hp. Subtract roughly 5% for the 2 pts in compression.

Cam specs Gary? And nice, you have your car dialed in well to make that et.

All this talk and no one recommended an after market block. I have seen many factory blocks pull the #1 mains bolts thru and the cracking of the deck by the stem holes also. Around 600-650hp I think it is money well spent on the after market block.

Just what I was going to say about using the old factory 400 block. That will be the weakest link in my opinion. Dart has a new block out that is moderately price at around $1500 that would do the trick. Already comes with all the good guy stuff.

agreed on the block... and agreed that it can be done on 11-11.5 to 1 compression and pump gas

I'm thinking AFR 210's with a ported intake of some sort...victor or supervictor. I've seen some tests where they ported those intakes and gained alot of flow. You need to flow as much as you can thru the intake as the heads already flow 300 cfm. Not many intakes flow over 300cfm

solid roller with medium duration and .620ish lift on those AFR heads should rock out.

you'll need to be making roughly 500whp for 600 on motor or so. I think it can be done but it will need to have perfectly matched components and a solid roller to handle the rpms it may need to achieve that power

If you're going all out, why bother with a 23 degree head?

yeah but i cry when i look at the prices on 18deg stuff