I get either heat soak or my starter cant crank the car after running or idleing for about 15mins. ..I have found that out when I shut the car off and then try to fire it back up...sometimes it strains the roll the motor over and other times it will just spin but not fire the car.....if I wait for a bout 15mins then I can fire the car right up...sometimes hard but atleast it fires..

what Im using now is a late model camaro starter for LT1...it is a mini also..when I had it with my SLP shorty tri-y headers and modified 305 it always started the car with no problem...but now I have a 383 running 10:6-1 with hooker long tubes.


SO???.....im thinking I either need a heat shield or a high torque starter.

I have a 153 tooth fly and I looked and the bolt pattern is straight across but the bolts are differernt lengths..also the block is an older 3970010 4bolt main is that matters.

what mini/high torque starter do I need to get? that I can just bolt right up and not have a problem installing it?

thanks

 

I use one of these and have never had a problem cranking my 13:1 compression engine over.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...55516_-1_10689

 

This is what I have done.

http:///www.thirdgen.org/techboard/t...r-upgrade.html

 

from what I described do you think that is the problem Im having?...either heat or because I have built up so much compression that my starter cant fire the motor after running for 15mins.?


thanks Stephen!...will I have to shim that starter?

RAD5.......is that corvette starter a high torque starter? how does it differ from the LT1 starter cause thats what im using now...it is also a mini starter. so is your a higher torque than the LT1?

 

You'll probably have to shim every starter. I don't think I've ever installed a GM starter that didn't need shims.

 

The LT1 starter is a high torque gear reduction starter. I can't report ever having a problem with one of them flipping an engine over- at least not that was the fault of the starter itself.