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Majorly bad situation.

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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 11:41 AM
  #1  
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Majorly bad situation.

Okay, maybe this is just because it hasn't run in 3 years, or hopefully it's a simple solution you guys can help me with.

My car idles really high, so high that I can coast at 40 kmph without using the accelerator. I can idle up hills. I tuned it up myself to the best of my knowledge. What would cause it to idle so high to achieve that?

The carb also kind of burps in that when I slow down, it will just, right out of nowhere, rev slightly higher (increasing torque, then I gotta slam the brakes). And the carb runs on after I shut off the car, is this because the carb is flooding?

And my transmission is slightly confused. It chooses the weirdest gears to be in. When the car burps (faster rev) it kicks into a higher gear. Almost like it wants to spin its tires while idling.

Any advice on any of these questions? Can I just take it to a mechanic and they'll fix it 100%? Or is this a lost cause?

Last edited by geehumshriber; Jun 29, 2007 at 12:08 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 12:05 PM
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Sounds like the choke isn't coming off. Like the wire isn't connected to the thermostat.

This is a stock carb, no?
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 12:08 PM
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Re: Majorly bad situation.

This is an Edelbrock 1406. I found the proper choke wire (which runs in the same cable as the one to the (alternator?). I cut off the old connector and put on the new connector for the electric choke. Theoretically, this would work?
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I believe the Edelbrock choke needs a ground wire as well. The stock carb thermostat is internally grounded.

The TV cable geometry needs to match the stock carb as well. If you just attach the cable to any old spot, it probably isn't operating correctly. Get it right before you burn up your transmission.
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 12:14 PM
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Re: Majorly bad situation.

It grounds itself. There's a wire that comes off the ground plug and bolts onto itself for ground. I'd assume this is adequate?




Okay, bad description. It bolts onto the bolts that hold the electric choke together. So where the screws are that hold the plug area to the carb, it bolts on there for ground.
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Verify you're getting 12 volts to the supply wire.
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 01:22 PM
  #7  
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Re: Majorly bad situation.

It's the stock supply wire, so yeah, it's 12V. And I fixed my TV cable, I just had to fabricate an extension for the carb bracket and bolt on the stud backwards to ensure proper length, location, and distance traveled.
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 01:59 PM
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
It may be the stock choke wire, but it may not be supplying 12 volts like it should.
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 02:05 PM
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From: washington state
Car: 1992 Firebird v6 1992 formula v8
Engine: 3.1, 350 TPI
Transmission: both 700 r4
Re: Majorly bad situation.

On the carb you will have to have and extenal ground wire. From the chock house to the carb hold down. I installed the same carb on my 85 suburban. Also check to see if your getting twelve volts. The directions for the carb tell you not to use the alternator voltage for the carb. I used the old chock wire that was supply's twleve volts. If you dont have the directions down load them from elderbrock.com Helped me alot

You will also have to adjust the carb after installation. I again followed the directions. Also run the distributor vaccum through the carb. I did this and my gas MPG improved from 10 to 13 MPG.

When you adjust the carb use a TAch metter and a vaccm gauge. and adjust both screws one at a time. May have to do it a few times before you get it right. You can do this.

Check your timing also. Make sure its right. Everything has to be adjusted to work right

Last edited by kurfbird; Jun 29, 2007 at 02:12 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 02:09 PM
  #10  
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: Majorly bad situation.

I might also zip tie off the choke so it's not on. Then make sure it drives normally. I'm also assuming your choke is your problem, but it'd be pretty easy to tell actually, so that's something you should mention.
ie - my choke is sticking on, rather than "my car idles at 40km/hr". Maybe you have a vacuum leak as well.
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 11:02 PM
  #11  
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Re: Majorly bad situation.

Kurfbird - The external ground wire goes to the choke hold down. I'm pretty sure I'm using the stock voltage, as it had the same connector for the choke in the hold CC'ed car. I cut off this connector and put on the connector best suited for the 1406. And I do have the manual.

Secondly, I ran the advance through the vacuum, (it has both centrifugal and vacuum advance on my distributor). This connects to my carburetor.

Thirdly, I used a vacuum gauge to adjust my carburetor. I've done it twice now. I'll do it a third, but this seems unnecessary.

Sonix - The car ran pretty good with nothing on the choke. I'd then assume that after plugging in the choke, this problem arose, then it must be the choke.

How can I check for a vacuum leak? It's brand new hose running to a rebuilt distributor. The timing is properly done.

After I got the carb back from my mechanic, he said that I have to replace an idling rod on the passenger side? (I think he said idling rod....) what would this be causing if it was not functioning properly?
General - Last time I had a carb that ran on, it was because it was ruined and it flooded itself. Keep the tips coming, I'll do everything I can to get the car to work.
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 11:04 AM
  #12  
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Re: Majorly bad situation.

I unplugged the choke, and it idled ever higher. Then I plugged it back in, still idled high. Unplugged, idled high, plugged back in, idled just fine. Drove it around the block and the idle was perfectly fine, threw her into passing gear a couple times, and got 'er home. Idled fine in the drive way, then turned her off, turned back on again, idled fine, revved, then still idled fine.

I have not a clue what is going on. It didn't even run on, either, so I guess it's not flooding anymore and the mixture isn't too rich.
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 12:14 PM
  #13  
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From: Portage, MI.
Car: 1986 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Majorly bad situation.

You also may have a bad choke spring. Have you visually checked to see if the choke opens and closes properly? You asked how to check for a vacuum leak. Spray choke cleaner around the base of the carb and between the intake maniflod and heads. Any increase in rpms means there is a leak.
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 12:33 PM
  #14  
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Re: Majorly bad situation.

I'll check that when I go back outside. I replaced my fuses and now my tachometer works, woohoo! So now, I know that my engine idles properly at about 750 rpms or so. I pump the gas once, and it shoots to exactly 2000, hovers a bit, but eventually rests EXACTLY at 2000 rpms. I pump the gas, drops down to 750. It makes almost a weird noise (sucks in air, sort of jumps to lower rpm and then goes up to 2000). This is with the engine cold.

I'll go out in a few and spray in a bit.
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 06:48 PM
  #15  
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From: Portage, MI.
Car: 1986 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Majorly bad situation.

Your high idle for when the choke is on is too high. Adjust it down a bit. My edelbrock 600 idles with the choke on at 1500 or so. And if I kick it once with the gas pedal it idles down then.
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