Fight w/ engine dipstick install. Who'll win?

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Sep 6, 2007 | 09:40 AM
  #1  
Replaced my stock 350 engine with the exact same block. Now trying 2 hours to install my engine oil dipstick tube!!! It's on the right (passenger) side, between the exhaust manifold and engine bay. I had to remove it during the engine install, as it was in the way. Never imagined that such a slim part would be difficult to re-install. Now can't find a possible way to get it back in!! (I can't position the tube for reinsertion at the correct angle). It's curved and has a small bracket in the middle to attach to one of the exhaust manifold studs, with a nut. I just got done taking off the steel air system pipes from the right exhaust manifold, for more clearance. Didn't help much. The A/C receiver/dryer and the shock tower are both in the way. Going to take off the starter (again), for more room and visibility. If that doesn't do it, will have to reluctantly remove the exhaust manifold, which I am putting off unless absolutely necessary. Anyone have any tips?

As usual, GM never designed their cars with the mechanic and repair procedures in mind. *%@!&*$
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Sep 6, 2007 | 09:43 AM
  #2  
Re: Fight w/ engine dipstick install. Who'll win?
I had the exact same problem on my 305. I had to bend my dipstick a bit to get it to slip in right, I also cut a bit off the end of it :P
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Sep 6, 2007 | 10:45 AM
  #3  
Re: Fight w/ engine dipstick install. Who'll win?
Thanks Shift06. Can I call you shifty for short? Ha.

Fight Round One: It's be a real pain, for such a simple part. Before removing the engine, the nut on the exhaust manifold stud that held the dipstick was rusted in, and when I tried to turn the nut, the whole stud moved, twisting the oil dipstick tube's mounting bracket. Used Wd-40 on it several times, but no go. Had to leave it in until the whole engine was out. Typical corrosion problem.

Fight Round 2: Then, when trying to install the new engine, had to remove the dipstick tube, as it was always catching on something. (Murphy's Law)When I took it out, I had to turn and twist it several times to get it out. For a while, I even wondered if it had a 2nd bolt or nut holding it in.

Then I painted it, so it'd look nice. So much for the paint job, as it got scratched from trying to re-install it. (2 steps forward, 1 step back). I'm not against bending it a little, but I'm afraid to cut it off any, and jeopardize the accuracy of my oil readings.

Fight Round 3: Took off the air system's pipes off the exhaust manifold for more clearance. Didn't make a difference.

Fight Round 4: I took off the starter, and can now actually see the approximate location of the dipstick tube's hole. But the tube still won't go in. The only thing I've got going for me, is that I've already had everything off at least once, so there is no more rust or grease to fight with. (My hands still manage to get greasy, but the source is unknown).

Fight Round 5: I may remove the exhaust manifold next. When I installed the manifold, I put anti-seize paste on the bolt threads, so it'll come off without too much hassle. The trick is re-installing the metal gaskets for the manifold.

Thanks for sharing my pain.
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Sep 6, 2007 | 11:21 AM
  #4  
Re: Fight w/ engine dipstick install. Who'll win?
lol what the heck, having to pull the starter and maybe headers for a dipstick?

dude if its that bad go buy an aftermarket one that looks like what you need

stock dipstick comes right up between the 6 and 8 header tubes, slides in without too much coaxing
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Sep 6, 2007 | 04:10 PM
  #5  
Re: Fight w/ engine dipstick install. Who'll win?
Thanks 19doug90, but unfortunately, the ridiculous battle continues...

Fight Round 6: I didn't have to take off the exhaust manifold. I bent the dipstick tube, put some WD-40 on it, and got it to go in, all the way down to its' lip. But the bracket that attaches it to one of the studs on the exhaust manifold was bent when I removed it from the old engine, and wouldn't go on the stud anymore, as bent it was shorter. I tried to bend the bracket straight without removing the dipstick tube, but couldn't. So I re-bent the dipstick tube to remove it, and straighten out the bracket, and the dipstick tube broke in half!!! So, then I ran all over town, trying to find a replacement. Went to 2 Advance Auto Parts stores, Carquest, Napa, and Autozone, who didn't have one. I went to O'Rielly's Auto Parts, who ordered me a chrome one made by "Mr. Gasket". But when I went to O'Rielly's to pick it up, it was the wrong one! Their catalog said that part # 6238 (if I recall) fit something like '85-92 Firebird and Camaro's, but it was way shorter than my old one, and the package itself said it only fit years 82-85! Guess I'll have to drive to the junkyard in a neighboring city (60 miles away).

I guess it's worth it, 'cause in my mind, it's important that you have the right dipstick tube (and dipstick) so that you have correct oil readings, especially on a new engine. It would be bad to have the wrong part, and to think you were full with oil, but really 2 quarts low (or vice versa).
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Sep 6, 2007 | 05:35 PM
  #6  
Re: Fight w/ engine dipstick install. Who'll win?
i am guessing you have AC still... had the same problem...
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Sep 6, 2007 | 05:57 PM
  #7  
Re: Fight w/ engine dipstick install. Who'll win?
haha, i just recently did the same thing trying to reinstall my dipstick around my headers, like a retard i kept bending it at different angles, but eventually it clicked in my mind that this thing had to go like 8" straight into the block at one point or another and it wont matter how its bent, it broke before I figured that out though :P
i bought a flexible one ;0
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Sep 7, 2007 | 08:55 PM
  #8  
Re: Fight w/ engine dipstick install. Who'll win?
Fight Round 7: Did a search on dipsticks and read that many people were unable to remove their (engine) dipstick tube. Others have no trouble at all. Drove 60 miles (one way) to junkyard to find a replacement for my broken one. They had 4 Firebirds - most missing their engine or 6 bangers, none with my 350 engine, but had one 305. Compared dipstick tube and seemed to be the same. Sprayed the rusty nut on exhaust bracket's stud with WD-40. Removed nut, but dipstick tube wouldn't budge! (The problem many have). I tried and tried to remove it, but couldn't. Tried prying it up by the bracket with a long screwdriver, tried pulling it with leather gloves on, tried pushing it up from underneath. Carefully bent it some, but that didn't make a difference. Eventually tore it apart trying.

The good news is that I found a 92 Cadilllac w/ a 305 or 350 that had been in a crash and had the entire passenger side gone. Was able to see and get to the dipstick tube and remove it with almost no effort. Perfect match! Kind of wish the Cadillac's other shiny parts would fit on my 91 Trans Am!
Cost: $2.60, incl. dipstick itself (plus $20 gas). Degreased it, sanded the rust and old paint off with a wire wheel on my drill, and primed and painted it. Will install it tomorrow, before I put the starter or air pipes back on.
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Sep 9, 2007 | 06:52 AM
  #9  
Re: Fight w/ engine dipstick install. Who'll win?
I feel your pain dude. I messed up my original dipstick exactly the same way. Trying to undo the rusty nut on the manifold stud. Ended up bending the tube to where the dipstick wouldn't go in all the way anymore. Unfortunately, none of the cheesy aftermarket replacements work right for our application. I ended up doing the same thing as you, and getting another original one. I've grabbed a couple of extra ones from the junkyard whenever I could get them out, just in case I ever ruin another one. I'm going to be installing Hooker 2055's soon, so that tab will be useless at that point. I'm just going to cut the tab off when I put the headers on. As hard as it is to get the dipstick out most times, I figure it should stay in just fine without the tab.
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Sep 9, 2007 | 04:27 PM
  #10  
Re: Fight w/ engine dipstick install. Who'll win?
Well, I installed the dipstick tube that I got from the junkyard. Of course, I compared the shape and lengths of both tube and dipstick itself before installing, and they were the exact same. Barely got the replacement one on, with the exhaust manifold, A/C junk, and other stuff in the way. Then checked my oil level, (with both the original and replacement dipsticks), and it reads a bit high, maybe 1 quart over full, for unknown reasons! Doesn't yet make any sense, as it's a new engine that hasn't been started yet, but I'll figure it out. I previously added 5 quarts of oil and a new filter. Then had to remove filter and drain (new) oil to re-install the oil pump and pickup properly. Emptied most of what was in the filter, and the engine. However, this was on a cold engine, so perhaps 1/2 quart stayed in? When I reinstalled the oil pan, and the same oil filter, and added oil again, I may have put a full 5 quarts back in. Then, later, had to take off oil filter to re-install my oil cooler (changed my decision about using it). This time, I didn't empty the oil filter, covering it in plastic. But since I lost a few tablespoonfulls, added a little oil from a 6th quart. Maybe that's how I'm over? I thought I faithfully checked the proper oil level time and time again, before removing the old dipstick tube, but maybe I didn't.

Any opinions on running an engine with 1 quart too much? Thanks everyone!
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Sep 10, 2007 | 12:28 AM
  #11  
Re: Fight w/ engine dipstick install. Who'll win?
I hate to tell you this now after all you went thru to get a dipstick tube, but I got a brand new one from the Chevy dealership for $14. Someone who owned my car before me must have had the same problem. Mine has about an inch of the original tube sticking out of the block and a chrome aftermarket tube shoved into the stub of the original one. When I got the car the oil pressure would do funky things and the lifters were sometimes noisy. When I changed the oil for the first time I drained 8 quarts out! The tube arrangement was too long and the dipstick was way off. I saw that fixing the tube was going to be a real pita and that if the old tube didn't want to come out I was going to have to pull the pan. Since the current arrangement didn't leak I made a new mark on the dipstick at the correct full level and decided to leave it alone until the motor comes out for an upgrade.

Running the oil over full (level too high) will cause the oil to become aerated by the crankshaft whipping it into a froth, which is bad since it will be full of air bubbles. (the purpose of a windage tray is to prevent this by keeping the oil off of the crank) That was the cause of the erratic pressure and lifter noise on mine. With the correct amount of oil in the pan the oil pressure is steady and normal and the lifter noise went away. I don't know how much is too much, but it's probably better to be a little low than too high. It might be a good idea to drain it again and put another filter on it to double check the accuracy of your dipstick. If you put the filter on dry the oil level will drop about a half a quart when you fire it and the filter fills up. Good luck!
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