recently Bought my first camaro, always wanted one. It runs really rough.

I have replaced the Throttle position sensor, the MAT sensor, the MPP sensor, the oxygen sensor and the oil pressure switch. I have replaced the spark plugs, new distributor cap, new PCV valve, new rotar, new starter.

I adjusted the timeing today and double checked the fireing order.

When you rev the engine up in park it will go up to about 4.5k RPMs and stay. When driveing it has absolutely no power. I could barely get it to load on a trailer. I can hold the brake and give it gas and it will rev to about 2k RPMs and wont budge. The engine also has a slight ticking sound when idleing.

I was thinking it might be a computer problem.

I was hopeing someone else might have come across a problem like this and could point me in the right direction to what to look for.

 

how many miles are on her?since it has a tick when it idles it may need a cam and lifters put in .or u need to adjust them alittle.

 

It has 98000 miles one it. The error codes I am getting on it are:

21: throttle Position sensor
33: MAP Sensor
42: Electronic Spark Timeing

Could it be a bad ECM? And how do you test the MAP sensor to see if it is bad.

 

A couple of basic tune-up issues that I don't see in your original post:
1. Plug wires and coil wire
2. Ignition coil
Either of those parts, if bad, can cause the exact symptoms you describe.

The ticking sound could be as simple as an exhaust manifold gasket leak. If so, that will cause erroneous O2 sensor readings, a rich running condition, and drop in mileage.

 

fist
21 you dont just replace the TPS sensor they need to be set after with a digital volt meter do a search been covered millions of times

that and your timing will have alot to do with idle... i would get that staightend out first before playing with MAP sensors


NOW your timing... what did you set it at? Did you disconnect the tan/white single connector on the passenger side of the engine bay? if not you will have some major retard going on


now for the mysterious "tick"... you will very very rarely need to replace hydraulic roller lifters... i have a set with over 270,000 miles still good...

the noise is most likely caused by a poorly adjusted rocker arm... not actual damage....

you need to get a manual for your car... it will cover the proper way to adjust the rockers to zero lash... or if you are impatient like me search... as you will not be the first one to have encountered problems like this...

 

I have installed new plugs and wires, new distributer cap.

When adjusting the timeing I refered to a Manual I bought for this model camaro at auto Zone, and yes i did disconnect the tan/black wire and had the car in gear idleing against the parking break as detailed in the procedure for adjusting the timeing.

The Tick I am not so much worried about as the engine not reving past 1200 RPM when in gear.

The TPI sensor wasnt replaced by me but i will go back and consult on how to adjust it. Though the car runs the same with it hooked up as it does with it disconnected.

I have ran searches on the forums and havent came up with similar results.

My fuel pressure reads at 14 PSI, and while I was under there I changed the fuel Filter.

I reset the ECM and no it gives no error codes.

I have not replaced the ignition coil yet, but will if yall think that it could cause a problem similar to mine.

 

There are 98,000 miles on the odometer.

There is somewhat of a light greyish/white smoke that comes from the pipes when you rev it up.

I have a TBI rebuild kit, but havent tore into it yet.

I am just trying to give as much information about the car as possible let me know if you need any more.

 

what did you set the timing to? 2* advanced 3*? 0?

what do you mean the engine isnt revving past 1200?

never heard of the car idleing in gear against the E brake for setting timing... what kind of book do you have... the whole idling in gear seems like a waste of time not to mention dangerous on a 15y/o car that is new to you

 

Its Haynes Repair Manual for 1982-92 Chevrolet Camaro
http://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Cama.../dp/1563920603

The instruction to set the parking break and set the timeing to zero degrees is on the inside of the hood if you have a 92 RS 305 TBI you can look and verify this yourself. The sticker says "Manual N 0*"
"Auto DR 0*"

I have a new Ignition Coil I will install later tonight.

I mean I can stick the car in gear, hold my foot on the brake and put the gas pedal to the floor and the car will go up to 1200 RPM and wont budge the car at all. Won't rev past 1200 rpms, like its governing out.

 

try resetting your timing in park engine at idle. the engine speed should be read both idling in park and in gear. think for a second if that were a manual transmission could you set that timing while in gear? the real answer is no. I've been sceptical about the HAYNES manuals they have quite a bit of misinformation in them.

 

The Sticker inside the hood was the one said set it in DR 0*, the haynes manual said to follow the sticker.

 

that is because the haynes manual is often wrong! i mean they show illustrations of the timing tab with numbers that are backwards.... unless you paid $300 for the manual... i wouldnt completely trust it...
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and you dont really need to set the timing at *0... you can set it at *2 adv safely... i say that because any more than that i would be running 93 octane or be using winaldl to scan for knock counts

 

here I'll give you what the CHILTON manual says.
1. locate timing marks on pulleys
2. coat marks with paint or chaulk for readability
3. warm engine to normal temp and stop engine, connect a tach to distributor
4. install timing light with inductive pickup lead on the front left cylinder
5. to set base timing do the following first
a. for all feadback carbs disconnect the 4 wire connector at distributor
b. for all fuel injected engines disconnect the ECM EST connector, tan/white wire on pass side wheel well, (some models dont have this connector if this is the case ground terminal A and terminal B on the ALDL connector)
6. turn off all accessories, place trans in N for manuals or PARK for automatics. set parking brake.
7. loosen distributor just enough so that it may be turned
8. start engine and at idle adjust timing according to emissions label located in engine compartment
9. stop engine, tighten distributor bolt. restart engine and recheck timing.
10. stop engine, disconnect timing light and tach. reconnect distributor,ecm est bypass connector, or unground ALDL connector.

 

Thanks, i will go back and double check it in park, but i am sure that it will be pretty much the same.

After I replaced my fuel filter today the car will not start any more. Before it started fine and wouled idle, maybe a little rough but wouldnt die. When you put it in gear it had no power and sometimes would stall out.

The computer will not spit out any error codes but it has a check engine light on.

I pulled #1 spark plug and it was all black and fouled, and its a pretty new plug.

I think the car is running too rich and might be flooding out but I am not sure.

I am going to let it sit tonight and replace the plugs again and do a compression check on all the cylinders.

 

your plug reading says that you may have a bad coil or ignition module.

 

check the fuel pump preasure make sure that is right im not to certain but i think its like 30 - 60 psi but you should look into that i noticed you have checked and rechecked everything with timming issues and spark but no fuel delivery try that and see where it gets you.

 

TBI cars are 14-16 PSI whereas TPI cars are 40-50 PSI

 

Replaced the ignition coil last night. Used a spark tester to check plug wires. Its been turning over, and hitting some. Its getting Fuel and its getting spark its just not cranking. I dunno why.

I checked the fuel pressure today and it registered 14PSI. and when I turn the key on I can hear the pump primeing.

 

TBI cars are 9-13

 

okay the actual pressure for the TBI is not relevant as the actual setting from GM has been known to varry ALOT... and can be made adjustable for you DIYers... as long as you are not in the 18-20 psi range and have more than about 9 psi you are good you will have enough fuel to start and idle...


IF you have SPARK AND FUEL guess what... you will have fire... unless you are trying to run this in a vacuum that is.

you can try a shot of starting fluid might help...

have you verified the TPS reading yet... if not i wouldnt bother doing anything else at this point

 

Havent verified the TPS reading yet but I did change my plugs out and cut off the cat and it runs a whole lot better now it actualy has power and will spin tires.

Still smells like it is running rich so I will check the TPS when I get a multimeter.

 

it might spin tires but so will a ford... replace that CAT there isnt really a reason to not have one these days

 

Let's start with the codes: once a code is set, it remains until you clear the codes. That means the code may have been there for YEARS. As well, that could be an accumulation of codes.

So first, clear the codes (disconnect the battery for 30 seconds will be more than adequate). Then run the engine for awhile and then stop & check the codes.

 

i was under the impression that a code would only remain for so many starts

 

I cleared the codes they didnt come back. I have the cat off and will get it replaced when I can. The thing still is running rich, but runs a whole lot better now.

 

No more codes? Good thing you didn't start wasting money on replacing electrical parts you didn't have to

FYI, often when one part goes, it can trigger a number of codes because the ECM will try and compensate which causes other components to give readings outside "pre-set tolerances" within the ECM. That is why you really need to see the engine operate on a scan tool (than rely on a simple code reader). And even then, you it only gives "guidance" in trying to isolate your problem.

Now see how it runs for awhile and see if any codes come back. If not, then you know you won't need to waste your money on electrical parts and can concentrate on "tune up & modifications" to get some power.

It maybe that the engine is just tired and worn out if you have done all the proper tune-up items and you have no codes occuring (after you have reset the ECM).