Im alittle confused on what works and what doest the block im going to be building is a l98 2 bolt main hydraulic roller

So far i figured that to build a new bottom end ill need crank, rods, and engine rebuild kit w/ pistons. What else would i need im alittle confused on if i need internal or external balance. Also should i get stock or undersize stuff. Should i buy a new dampner or will the stock one work

So far heres what i got
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...W&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...S&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

 

okay good start.. forget about all of those parts... you have no use for them...or no need to spend that much...

are you going to have the block bored? any thing else... decked true it up?

i take it you are willing to spend quite a bit after seeing that crank... it can and will be much cheaper than that... what kind of a rebuild are you looking for?



and what if any parts do you already have... as those may necesitate the use of other parts or work done to the engine

 

What are your plans for this motor? U can't order internal oversize parts till U know what U need. Step back and take a deep breath

 

Agreed. While all of that would "fit" your engine with machining, it's pretty much all overkill unless you're building a killer engine. If you're building a killer engine, the rest of the package (heads, induction, exhaust, cam, valvetrain, etc.) had better match and be built to take it.

You can almost justify the rods if you're having your stock rods shot peened, resized, and ARP bolts installed - then the cost is about the same, might as well go with the stronger aftermarket.

Splayed caps - better be putting down some serious power to justify that.

Forged pistons - well, not a bad idea, but usually not needed unless power adder is being used, or you're spinning it to the moon.

 

should i get pressed fit rods or brushed? The reason i choose all forged parts is i would like to be able to spray the **** out of it and make peak power around 5200-5600. The motor is a street/strip engine and would like to safely run a 150-200 shot on it. As for the top end its going to have worked sdpc vortec heads to handle extra lift. The cam im going with is 224/230 duration @ .50 502 510 lift probaly 530 545 lift with the 1.6 ratio roller rockers. Intake will be a performer rpm air gap vortec with a 650 double pumper. Ill probaly run 4.10's in the rear if its too much ill run 28" tires. Trans is a rebuilt 700r4 with vigilante 3200 stall w/ pro build street strip rebuild kit. Should i get internal or external balance and what about a dampner?
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and yes it will be .30 over 355ci this is my first build would like 350-400hp without the nitrous. Really the only thing i kno about the 86 and up blocks is 1 piece seal

 

you will want internal balanced parts, the dampner will be fine...

i like floating wristpin just because i like not to have to pay/wait on a machine shop...

forged pistons i can see... rods try and buy rods that arent forged and will live on the street.. how ever those might be a little more than you need

the crank... is probably WAY more than you need IE you probably wont need forged

 

Given an understanding of what you've got in mind - not a bad selection of parts. You might want to lower the CR a little, though.

Have you considered Fast Burn heads?

 

so the stock dampner is fine? Thanks for the help it was either spend 3000 to 4000 on a gm ho crate motor that has a flat tappet cam small cam and crappy cast aluminum pistons or build a all forged motor for 1500 in parts.
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i thought about fast burn alittle more pricey but definetley an option it isnt something i want to rush and have done in a month if it takes a year or two to build a healthy motor i can wait. The compression ratio if i use vortecs with 64cc chambers will be 9:72:1 should run on pump gas right?

 

No. Get a new SFI unit.
Only if you carefully control everything. Lower would be safer.

 

what should be a safe max rpm for this setup debating on going to 1 3/4 headers also could this setup make 350hp to 400hp without the bottle?

 

man is picking a dampner confusing they ask steel or steel/aluminum neutral balancing internal or exteral i assume internal like the crank. Also has timing mark ranges and two sizes listed for a 89 350 6.0+ inches then one thats 7.0+ inches.

 

didnt really look at your cam and gears... you will probably be spinning higher than most 5-7 is right aftermarket would be better... the 6/8 or 7in really has to do with timing tab location... the neutral/internal balance are close i get them confused some times however i know you wont want external

how i understand it is the neutral one zero effect on crank balance the internally balance one has a specific amount of material removed that is standard for SBC cranks excluding the 400. at this point i dont think it matters which you get neutral/ internal as you will be having the crank balanced which is really the only time it matters but wait till someone can give you a answer for certain

 

You want a neutral/internal balance damper.

External is for stroker cranks that aren't internally balanced.

This is one case where bigger is better. A bigger damper keeps the timing gear quieter, along with helping a steel crank last longer. The rotational inertia effect is less than the improved timing benefit. Just get a timing tab that matches the damper you choose.