i want to try to better my cumbo put a bigger cam and get a stall to? what can get me the most power.

 

i would step up to a 10" 3500 stall and recurve the distributor.
What are the dirty details on your et slips? et MPH 60FT 1/8thet 1/8thMPH.?

With shorty headers the Y pipe configuration is critical.
Unless this is optimised a larger cam will not add much.
What is your exhaust system like> have you tried running it uncapped?

 

how about one of the 280H's from comp either the XE or the XR... what are the specs on that Zcam?

 

13.4 all day long and 1.9 60 ft 8.7 1/8

 

222 230

 

Whats the MPH? want to know how much power you are making. tell me about your exhaust system.

 

104.4mph 1/4 mi. sorry y pipe going have duals put on soon. weight of car is 3400 with me in it.

 

A good 3500stall converter should knock 4 10ths off your et.
i would get some long tube headers. A lot more torque.
if you want to stick with shortys build a scavageing type Y pipe using flowmaster Y collector # Y250350. Again a lot more torque. use 2.5" header pipes into 3.5" main exhaust pipe. ( easier to fit than duals equal performance)

i would recurve the distributor for 24deg inital at idle and 34-36deg max advance. ( shorten the advance travel limit in the distributor) harder launch. But first i would temp lock out the advance curve ( full advance all the time and test at the drags with different amounts of timing.
31-32-34-35-36-37deg. Find out what the motor wants for timing.
Locking out the advance during this testing removes that variable.
Allows you to find what amount of timing your car wants for best et and MPH.
if the motor wants something beyond 32 to 37deg timing the timing tab is out of wack or the carb jetting is off. Once you've found the best timing you can go back and recurve the distributor.

Do all this before you swap to a bigger cam. You have not optimized what you have yet. Which trick flow heads do you have? have you played with the carb jetting at all?

you have enough MPH (power) to crack into the 12's now but need more torque ( exhaust, timing curve,jetting (and a much higher stall speed 3500minimum) to launch hard.

 

the car timing is way out its at 34 base timing but i have been having running lean in the 3rd gear bc i had a t in the gas line

 

Well a new cam (any cam) won't solve that problem. So there is more power on tap once you sort out the fuel system,
I recomend a new in tank fuel pick up with a flaired end.
Go 1/2" fuel all the way from the tank pickup to the carb regulator. Get a 110GPH electric fuel pump.
Or run two carter 4594 pumps (72GPH each) with two 3/8" fuel lines from the tank ( twin 3/8" fuel pickups) to the carb. No regulator is required. (7psi)
(your MPH will go up cause you're now making more power) and more launch power to be had by optimizing the timing and exhaust system and getting a 3500stall converter.
I would get or make your own "piston stop" and verify that your timing tab TDC point is accurate. then do the tuning exercise I outlined with the locked out timing.
i just finished building a 350 here and the new chrome bolt on timing tab was off by 4 degrees.
Fix this stuff first. Ring the most out of it you can. You'll get will into the 12's once this is all corrected with the cam u have.
Then pop the timing cover off and retard the cam to a 'straight up" position. (Crane cam offset bushing and lock plate)
Approx 5 degrees.
This will add upper rpm power. Just like getting a new cam.
I thought something was fishy as your MPH (horsepower) should be higher with the trickflow heads. The fuel delivery problem explains it.
Had the same problem on my car. Time to upgrade that first.

If you multiply your ETx your MPH you get a result that is typically between 1300 and 1400. I call it a hook factor. A good hook factor is around 1300. A bad hook factor tends to be around 1400 or higher.
this "hook factor" shows how well your car accelerates relative to the available power.
Your hook factor is 13.4x 104.4 =1398.

not too good. When you swap converters and improve the engine torque your hook factor should improve to the 1340 area . 1340/ 104.4=12.83
you should be able to get to a 12.83et or very close. thats with out adding more power ( correcting the fuel problem) Correcting the fuel problem will help both the et and MPH making the car faster still.

you should be able to get your 60ft times down around the 1.7 zone.
A new cam, even the most expensive roller cam won't work worth a **** until all this stuff is sorted out first.

 

ok i got my duals with 2.5 in. pipe and race muffler and 3500 stall. what cam would help me the most?

 

Fix the fuel system and timing issues first.
What is the ET, 60ft and MPH now?
Is your exhaust system duals or 2 into one.?
Compare it at the track. Open and closed.

 

fixed the fuel problem. duals. tracks closed. and have the money and want to change cam. thinking about comp 280h mag. or xe274h would it work good?

 

Comp 280H magnum? Going a step BACK in technolog eh? That's a 230/230, barely an upgrade from your 222/230.

 

thats why im asking for yalls opion

 

The XE series is much better than the Magnum series. Stick with that.

 

will i gain much horsepower or lower et from changing ?worth my time of changing?

 

Certainly will if you go bigger than the XE274. A bunch of people are making good power with the XE274, but an XE282 would be an even bigger jump from what you have. You'll need the stall F-BIRD'88 mentioned, though.

 

I'd look at the XS-274.
Crane and Lunati both make a good split pattern one around the mid 23x range intake. Only a slight bit more exhaust duration.
Longer LSA will give a wider powerband, smaller will be a tighter powerband.

10:1, 3800RPM stall, 4.10 gears - no reason you can't go BIG.

 

I gotta say I really like the XS282S I have in the 396. Don't miss hydraulics AT ALL!

 

What headers are on your car?
The headers and camshaft valve events must to work together.

If you have:
Shorties, stick with the cam you have now, retard it to a "straight up" position.
Experiment with a flowmaster 2 into 1 Y merge collector Y250350

If you have:
Decent long tube headers (open at the track) Isky #201534 degreed in on 102 intake C/L.
This is a solid lifter cam. needs a ".550" lift" spring Isky #6105 or #235-D
Experiment with collector extensions. If you like a bad boy idle, this is the baby for you. But may/probabily will not like shorty headers.
"Lock out" the distributor mechanical advance curve for this one. 34-36deg full time spark advance.

 

how do i lock out my msd

 

MSD distributor, right?

It came with the stuff to lock the timing. Still have all those springs and stuff that came with it?

 

yes and yes still in the lil bag